Just curiouse what some have done with the insides of their doors. As you know there was some type of sound proofing applied by the factory that tends to leave surface rust inside the doors when that stuff dries up, cracks, and falls to the bottom of the door. I suspect I'll be able to carefully scrap most of it off, and possibly get the soda blaster inside there to get the surface rust off, than coat with something. With today's materials, it seems like the best thing to do is to apply the same sound/heat shielding material as I plan to use on the floor, inside the door. So, what have others done?

Thanks in advance.

 

I haven't used it yet but plan to in my '37 Buick, the insulation wrap, sticky on one side, foil lined on the other, used on basement foundations. The guys over on the HAMB use it, it's a lot cheaper the stuff specifically made for auto sound deadener.

There also specific paint on sound deadener, I forgot what it's called, something like Rhino coat, I think, but I've heard guys use truck bed liner you can buy at the big box stores.

 

This is just my opinion, but blasting the inside of the door with soda would be the absolute very last thing I would ever do. That stuff has been known to cause more paint related problems than chemical stripper. There's no way you could ever clean it out enough to keep it from boiling out of the seams and ruining your restoration later. Could be 6 months, could be 2 years, but I would predict failure would be emanate. No paint manufacturer will warrant their products put over soda blasted metal. Check it out and see for yourself.

 

While I don't share all the concerns that some have about soda blasting, I do know that soda blasting does not remove rust. As for the OEM inner door coating, I leave it in place if it still has a good bond to the metal and is not flaking off. I use my own formula for a "Lizardskin" type of thermal barrier coating and then apply some Dynamat over it for vibration dampening. Note that I have yet to use the "soundproofing" word...neither of these products are meant to be soundproofing, they hold back the heat and they keep the door skin from vibration like a cymbal.

Getting back to your question about prep...I like to clean the inside of the door as much as possible to get rid of loose "stuff" that accumulates in the bottom of the door cavity. I then coat the inside of the door cavity with KBS Rust seal or any other POR15-type product to seal the rust and help seal the door skin seam at the bottom of the door. There are seam sealers on the market today that are made for use with a general undercoating process but I steer clear of these products because they are wax-based and do nothing for encapsulating the rust that may be hiding in the seam.

If you are into soundproofing then there is another step that does not involve the door cavity.

 

Yeah, POR-15 is a good idea. I should have thought about that already. I've used it on the frame with good luck. I don't have much rust (I'm lucky there), so the POR-15 should work fine, I can reach inside the door with a wire brush, and pick at the loose tar stuff. With regards to sound proofing, I was using that term as I figure that was the reason Henry put that tarish stuff in the doors to begin with, so I just wanted to replace it with something.

 

If you have an interest in more extensive soundproofing for your vehicles here is a good source of info/products...Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown
Don Sambrook really knows his stuff when it comes to this topic.

 

Great information as far as it goes CL. I would like to see more information on the products that he recommends as regards deterioration with time, temperature (hot and cold) and use. Maybe it was on his website somewhere and I missed it? As far as I can tell Don only touched upon it in a few places like not using asphalt-based deadener on the roof particularly in places like New Mexico, Arizona, California, etc. But what about sub-zero temperatures? I'd like to hear from those of you that have a few miles (10K+ miles) on your truck since doing this.

As for the Yooper's original question regarding the doors there are three problems as I see it.

1. Rustproofing
2. Sound deadening
3. The jarring effect of door closing

I think the POR-15 or Eastwood's Rust Converter and Rust Encapsulator solutions resolve #1 and helps with #2 and should do well with #3.

Then add the sound deadener CDL patches to the outer door skin as Don suggests.

 

Charlie!! I am so glad someone else knows about this site. It's so hard to tell people Dynamat isn't necessary over the entire interior and what it's true function is. The site is a must read for anyone doing interior work. Thanks for posting!

 

Don is a great guy and was very helpful when I called him about some of his products and soundproofing my truck. The topic of roof insulation came up and the difference between deadening the reflected sounds within the cab as opposed to soundproofing the cab from external noise. As Don said, unless you live near an airport where planes are flying overhead all day then you don't need to soundproof your roof. I had never thought about it that way but it does make sense. I sprayed mine with my homemade Lizardskin and applied enough Dynamat over it to deaden the vibrations. Dynamat will handle the heat, especially after the thermal barrier coat does its job.

The other point that Don made was that the soundproofing I wanted to do in my doors should be done within the door panels and not the door cavity. He made the point that much of the noise that enters the truck comes through the door jambs so placing the soundproofing on the inside of the door panel will take care of more of that noise than if it were placed in the door cavity. I am using the closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl throughout my cab, that is with the exception of the roof...not many aircraft flying over head in my neck of the woods.

 

Don's info is great but what about fire resistance? Some of the closed cell foams are highly combustible.

 

Bob, the stuff you read about on the hamb is peel and seal. You can get it at lowes. It's a ashphalt and rubber roofing product with foil on one side and sticky on the other. For inside the doors and the roof, I applied some additional contact cement for insurance. I also applied home made lizard skin, like Charlie did.

 

Charlie,
Making sure that I understand correctly; are you saying to place the sound deadener on the inner surface of the inner door skin, not the inner surface of the outer door panel?

 

Here is a good thread on insulating:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nsulation.html

 

The material that is used to prevent sound from entering the cab should be placed as close to the inside of the cab as possible. In the case of the doors that would be the door panel (the interior trim panel added to most trucks today) if you have bare metal interior door surfaces, ala stock Ford, then sound deadener is not applicable. Hope this helps...

 

Charlie,
Thanks for the reply. My F-1 being a 49 did not have interior door trim, however I am making interior panels with cloth/carpet on 3/16" Kometex panel. I used Dynamat on the other interior surfaces of the cab. I am a little reluctant to put the Dynamat just beneath the new Kometex panels since someday long after I have departed, a future owner may want to go back to stock doors without panels. Based on that and your input, my thoughts were to reach inside the doors an stick the Dynamat on the back side of the inner panel. Is that a significant departure from your thoughts?