Long start 1991 Ranger 3.0
#16
Well I never did get this long start hot issue fixed. Then this past weekend it decided not to start period. Once again had plenty of spark. Fuel pressure right at 40 psi. Timing spot on. Truck now has 91,000 miles. Actions took this weekend. Put new motorcraft wires on. New cap and rotor. It started an ran. Rotor I took out wasn't good. Though well fixed. No start next morning. Checked fire and fuel again all still good. Pull a spark plug it was wet. I pulled the Ecm to check for bad caps or corrosion. It looked brand new inside. Fuel pressure still good and it holds pressure. Pulled to my shop and pulled the spark plugs an ran a compression test all cylinders between 150 -160 psi. Put new plugs in. Fired right off. Let it run for 20 mins shut down and let it set for 20 mins went to start it and had a long crank but started. So I am back where I started. I think the plugs where poisoned by close to 2 years of getting wet with fuel.
So my question now is where can this excess fuel be comin from.
So my question now is where can this excess fuel be comin from.
#18
I agree, the plugs say it looks to have been running rich. SO, lets think about this some more.
You say the FPR has been replaced, was the Old one bad??? Was the vacuum line wet with fuel the reason you replace it? If so, did you perform the 90 psi fuel rail test After replacing the FPR & if so, have you pulled the vacuum line again after the hot soak, to see if it's wet inside with fuel from the New FPR diaphragm being damaged from the 90 psi/double fuel pressure, test?
If you come to suspect a hot soak spark voltage problem, maybe put the coil on the suspect list. So give that puppy a primary & secondary winding resistance check & maybe have the sun machine do a high voltage output check, when it's in one of it's hot soak no start fits.
The plug gap looks to me to be maybe twice the .042"-.046" specified? If so, it can cause a wimpy spark & a not so good combustion event.
Will be interesting to hear what you find finally fixes it.
Did the hot soak hard restart problem come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event?
You say the FPR has been replaced, was the Old one bad??? Was the vacuum line wet with fuel the reason you replace it? If so, did you perform the 90 psi fuel rail test After replacing the FPR & if so, have you pulled the vacuum line again after the hot soak, to see if it's wet inside with fuel from the New FPR diaphragm being damaged from the 90 psi/double fuel pressure, test?
If you come to suspect a hot soak spark voltage problem, maybe put the coil on the suspect list. So give that puppy a primary & secondary winding resistance check & maybe have the sun machine do a high voltage output check, when it's in one of it's hot soak no start fits.
The plug gap looks to me to be maybe twice the .042"-.046" specified? If so, it can cause a wimpy spark & a not so good combustion event.
Will be interesting to hear what you find finally fixes it.
Did the hot soak hard restart problem come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event?
#19
#20
#21
Been looking through a long list of TSB's for a clue & about the only thing that seems to fit is TSB-98-23-10 here Search Technical Service Bulletins.
So, since you don't seem to have a scan tool that can hook up to & monitor fuel trim & the MAF sensor PID on this OBD-1 system for more clues & the plugs looking like they've been running rich for a while & the hot start procedure of having to open the throttle some so get it restarted hot, the fuel pressure & leak down checking out ok, new fuel injectors, starting ok cold (it would if fuel trim is corrupt rich), maybe try removing, let it cool if hot & Carefully cleaning the MAF sensor.
Use a non residual spray cleaner, like CRC MAF spray cleaner, don't touch the sensor with the wand, keep it squeaky clean on the reinstall & let us know how it goes.
So, since you don't seem to have a scan tool that can hook up to & monitor fuel trim & the MAF sensor PID on this OBD-1 system for more clues & the plugs looking like they've been running rich for a while & the hot start procedure of having to open the throttle some so get it restarted hot, the fuel pressure & leak down checking out ok, new fuel injectors, starting ok cold (it would if fuel trim is corrupt rich), maybe try removing, let it cool if hot & Carefully cleaning the MAF sensor.
Use a non residual spray cleaner, like CRC MAF spray cleaner, don't touch the sensor with the wand, keep it squeaky clean on the reinstall & let us know how it goes.
#23
Ok done some more research. I have figured out the distributor is in wrong. It offset one position clockwise. Since the recluse wheel has one window that is a different size which tells the computer where #1 cyl is at. And that is used to control injector timing. So this morning I am going to set it where it belongs. This is quite a task on this motor since there is very limited room back there to work.
#24
#26
#28
OK, Attaboy for hanging in there to see your trouble shoot through to a successful ending.
Thanks for closing out the thread.
Any idea how the distributor got installed incorrectly? Seeing as how you didn't mention having it out during the trouble shoot, or parts replacement, maybe the previous owner?
Thanks for closing out the thread.
Any idea how the distributor got installed incorrectly? Seeing as how you didn't mention having it out during the trouble shoot, or parts replacement, maybe the previous owner?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
queen of spades
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
13
11-04-2017 11:00 PM