Hi! all. Received my new head gasket set for my 302. It is identical to the old ones I removed. I noticed that on the right and left sides of the heads are (2) peanut shaped holes that are about an inch long. The gaskets I removed and the new ones have these holes on one side but not the other. So on one side these holes are covered with the head gasket and open on the other to flow through. probably a stupid question but why is one set of holes open and the other side closed. I hope I explained this well enough so you know what I am talking about. I hate to put it back together and find I should have cut new holes on the closed side. Also I cant find any bad spots on the gaskets I removed where water might have gotten through. Is this normal? Motor was blowing that vapor smoke out each pipe. Some cylinders had water in them when I removed heads. Any help would be much appreciated. Thankyou John

 

Check your block for being flat and true, no dips between cylinders etc.

Ditto the heads.

The water in the cylinders after teardown may have been from water left in the engine and got there during teardown.

The gaskets explained here with pics. It's been so long for me I'd have that question also on the gaskets etc:

302 head gasket installation - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

google "how to install sbf head gaskets" and see more, I gotta run but will be back on this. Blocking off the front sounds right though.

 

Hey! thanks so much for the comeback and the link, which indeed say to block off front holes. Helps to push water through heads and wherever it goes. Many thanks for your help. I have never done this before so its also a learning experience for me. Also a lot of fun. Johnwill also check for flat and true.

 

Checked block and heads for flat surface and looks good. Also do I need to use new head bolts? Thankyou John

 

If they are in good condition, ok to reuse. They are not "torque to yield" bolts.

 

Thanks Tod sure appreciate the help. John

 

My 64 Ranchero has a c4 Trans in it. Will a 86 Mustang 302 fit in there and hook up? Also what is a roller engine? Thanks for any help. John

 

Hi everyone,
Decided to have the heads checked by machine shop. I know I am really doing this slow. In my old age I find I am a little slower than I used to be. My question is when heads are reinstalled and torqued down, whats involved in reinstalling lifter rods and adjusting valves? I checked the block with a steel straight edge and my mag light on one side to see if light showed through between cylinders. Looked good. Is this satisfactory???? or do I need to do something else. Can I still reuse my original head bolts and lifter rods if the heads are shaved? Sorry for all the questions, but like I said this is my first time. THANKYOU John

 

An '86 302 will bolt up IF your C4 is a '65 1/2 or later pattern, which is 6 bolts. If your old engine was a 302, it would have been a 6 bolt bell pattern.

You will have to make sure your flex plate is the proper balance/imbalance for the year of the engine.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ance-info.html

A "roller" engine refers to engines with roller lifters. Those blocks have extra casting/machining to accept the Ford OEM roller set up.

You should be able to use your original head bolts if they are in good condition. How much did you have milled off the heads?

What type of rocker arms do you have? Pedestal or rail? (no shaft mount for this engine)

How to Rebuild Small-Block Ford Engines - Tom Monroe - Google Books

Ford Engine Technical Specs & Information

Pedestal mount vs. shaft mount vs. stud mount rocker arms! Help! - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

 

Thanks again Tod,
I appreciate all the info. and the extra links John

 

Hi Tod,
I decided to stay with the engine that's in it(older 302) Have not got heads back but will let you know what machine shop did when I get them. Head bolts look just fine and the push rods are nice and straight. Can I reuse pushrods also? Block in Ranchero checked out with a metal straight edge and shining my mag light behind it to check for light shining through between cylinders and elsewhere. Just have to figure out how to do the lifter adjustments. They have nuts that I loosened to take out pushrods. Thanks again . John

 

If they are stud mounted, you should be able to use your existing push rods even if they milled the heads.

Pedestal mount, I'm not sure. You may need shorter ones.

Adjusting Stud Mount Rockers - and checking pushrod length

I used to do mine with the engine running. What a mess. Not sure it was right, but my engine ran, reved and never blew up. You would tighten until the engine labored a bit, back off a bit till it smoothed out. Like I said, I'm not sure this is right and proper. But mine was not a clacker and it didn't blow up. Mine was the old style stud mounted non-roller hydraulic as found in '65-6 Mustangs and other 289s of that era.

 

sounds like a great way to check them. what is difference between stud mount and pedestal mount? Has the regular older type rockers. thanks much. John

 

Please see the links in post 9.

Studs tighten against the lifter, pedestal are a fixed torque and adjust via shims.

 

These are the stud type then. You always have the right answers for me. Thanks so much. You have a great day Tod. John