1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Moser

New truck with no Carburetor

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-23-2014, 01:57 PM
mx21's Avatar
mx21
mx21 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
New truck with no Carburetor

Hello all,

Im new to this older truck scene. I recently bought a 1973 F250 with a 360 or 390 not sure yet. It came with no carb. What are my best options to get a stock replacement carb, or is better to get a bigger aftermarket carb now? Would knowing for sure what the motor is (360/390) make a difference in the carb?

Pretty general questions I know, but any help that could sent me in the right direction would be helpful.

Also I noticed the rear driver-side stud for the carb was a bigger size then the other 3. Thats not stock right? Maybe the previous owner rethreaded a bigger stud in?

Thanks for the help!


[IMG][/IMG]
 
  #2  
Old 05-23-2014, 02:14 PM
redroad's Avatar
redroad
redroad is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pa.
Posts: 5,217
Received 493 Likes on 411 Posts
You have an aftermarket edelbrock torker or RPM intake it looks like ? The longer stud was put there to accommodate some throttle or kickdown linkage bracket once the carb was nutted down .. I can't imagine that the aftermarket parts I see on the motor would be put on a 360 .. So 390 would be my first guess .. Carb size is going to depend on what mods were done to the internals of the motor .. I think I would first try and borrow a 750 cfm carb from someone and disconnect the fuel line from the pump to the tank, buy about 6ft of fuel line and run it from the pump to a fuel can with fresh fuel sitting the can on a stool or chair and see what you got .. If the motor has been sitting awhile (do this step first) take out all the plugs and put a squirt of tranny fluid down each hole and turn the motor over awhile with plugs out .. Oh and take your shop vac and suck the debris from around each spark plug hole so you don't knock anything down in the cylinder (this step is not optional)
 
  #3  
Old 05-23-2014, 02:24 PM
mx21's Avatar
mx21
mx21 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by redroad
You have an aftermarket edelbrock torker or RPM intake it looks like ? The longer stud was put there to accommodate some throttle or kickdown linkage bracket once the carb was nutted down .. I can't imagine that the aftermarket parts I see on the motor would be put on a 360 .. So 390 would be my first guess .. Carb size is going to depend on what mods were done to the internals of the motor .. I think I would first try and borrow a 750 cfm carb from someone and disconnect the fuel line from the pump to the tank, buy about 6ft of fuel line and run it from the pump to a fuel can with fresh fuel sitting the can on a stool or chair and see what you got .. If the motor has been sitting awhile (do this step first) take out all the plugs and put a squirt of tranny fluid down each hole and turn the motor over awhile with plugs out .. Oh and take your shop vac and suck the debris from around each spark plug hole so you don't knock anything down in the cylinder (this step is not optional)
Thanks redroad for the help. The guy who owned the truck passed away and his kid was selling it but knew nothing about the truck. So I appreciate the help on the ?s I have as I'm totally in the dark.

Yes the motor has been sitting for about 10 years so I plan on doing what you suggested with the plugs.
 
  #4  
Old 05-23-2014, 02:43 PM
redroad's Avatar
redroad
redroad is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pa.
Posts: 5,217
Received 493 Likes on 411 Posts
Originally Posted by mx21
Thanks redroad for the help. The guy who owned the truck passed away and his kid was selling it but knew nothing about the truck. So I appreciate the help on the ?s I have as I'm totally in the dark.

Yes the motor has been sitting for about 10 years so I plan on doing what you suggested with the plugs.
If the carb has been off all that time but it doesn't look to be the case I would pull the intake and make sure it hasn't become a mouse condo .. You will find plenty of help here just ask
Try and find the casting numbers to help better ID the block and heads that will help some in determining what you have

http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/engine/partnums.htm
 
  #5  
Old 05-23-2014, 03:11 PM
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
HIO Silver is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 20,676
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts
That looks like an old school Edelbrock Streetmaster. Clean off some of the dirt/oil and look for a PN or name casting.

For a carb, consider Summit's house-branded 600 cfm with vacuum secondaries. About $280 the last time I checked. Alternatively, head to a swap meet for a Holley 1460 or Edelbrock 1406/1405. Your call but if you're new to all this, then go with Edelbrock.
 
  #6  
Old 05-23-2014, 03:17 PM
mx21's Avatar
mx21
mx21 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by redroad
If the carb has been off all that time but it doesn't look to be the case I would pull the intake and make sure it hasn't become a mouse condo .. You will find plenty of help here just ask
Try and find the casting numbers to help better ID the block and heads that will help some in determining what you have

http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/engine/partnums.htm
On the head I see D2TEAA and block D3TE. So according to the link above (if Im reading it correctly) they point towards being a 360.
 
  #7  
Old 05-23-2014, 03:20 PM
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
HIO Silver is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 20,676
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts
Originally Posted by mx21
On the head I see D2TEAA and block D3TE. So according to the link above (if Im reading it correctly) they point towards being a 360.
The castings won't tell ya much. They are externally identical and heads can be swapped around.

Here's how to determine what ya got: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6830607
 
  #8  
Old 05-23-2014, 03:28 PM
mx21's Avatar
mx21
mx21 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
The castings won't tell ya much. They are externally identical and heads can be swapped around.

Here's how to determine what ya got: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6830607
Thanks! I was planning on doing that asap.
 
  #9  
Old 05-23-2014, 04:15 PM
redroad's Avatar
redroad
redroad is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pa.
Posts: 5,217
Received 493 Likes on 411 Posts
What I was going for is determining if you have a truck motor or car motor .. and trying to somewhat determine the compression ratio without taking the heads off to inspect the top of the piston .. So you might take a guess at the cfm for the carb .. of course it would be a guess but an educated one .. As HIO pointed to the only way to determine the stroke is by the method mentioned in the thread he pointed to ..
 
  #10  
Old 05-23-2014, 04:26 PM
mx21's Avatar
mx21
mx21 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Looks like you guys were right.


Im getting my hopes up higher and higher that this motor might have been built to be a 390.
 
  #11  
Old 05-23-2014, 04:29 PM
redroad's Avatar
redroad
redroad is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pa.
Posts: 5,217
Received 493 Likes on 411 Posts
Good eye HIO

Street master 390 4bbl, single plane Ford 352-428cid. A single plane manifold on something that is stock not likely .. pop one of those tall valve covers and take some pics so we can tell more .. I'm thinking with what I see so far 750 cfm carb may be needed

 
  #12  
Old 05-23-2014, 05:59 PM
mx21's Avatar
mx21
mx21 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Valve cover off...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
 
  #13  
Old 05-23-2014, 06:12 PM
gatorfor88's Avatar
gatorfor88
gatorfor88 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Panama City
Posts: 3,512
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I dont know what you have but it is awfully clean. That says alot for who ever used to own it.
 
  #14  
Old 05-23-2014, 06:14 PM
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
HIO Silver is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 20,676
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts
Good eye HIO
... Right on! One of 'em still works!

_________

To the OP - Congratulations...It looks like the PO was pretty good about oil and filter changes... and long drives that brought the engine up to temperature.

Mine looks like a dirty charcoal grill. .. but wait til the ol' War Machine gets a rebuild. It'll be wicked.
 
  #15  
Old 05-23-2014, 06:35 PM
redroad's Avatar
redroad
redroad is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pa.
Posts: 5,217
Received 493 Likes on 411 Posts
@HIO

@mx21 nice cond. and pics .. Stock hydraulic valve train .. if you could, take a shot of one of the valve springs straight on like this not out of the motor of course but a straight on so I can see a little of the interior of the spring .. The springs are starting to look non stock and replaced for possible head rebuild and for a more radical cam .. All good things
 


Quick Reply: New truck with no Carburetor



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:05 PM.