Just wanting some feedback on my seat bracket. I have the door side bolted to original mounting bolt holes, and passenger side bracket will be bolted to 1 inch square tubing reinforcement under cab. I think they're too big and bulky. Whatcha guys think? The driver seat is 10 position power

 

I don't think it's too big or bulky at all. Just needs a little dressup. This is just my opinion, but I'd bevel and cap the ends, and add some captive nuts inside so you can bolt it in from underneath. You don't need additional bracing under the cab. A 3/8 grade 8 nut welded inside the tube and bolt with fender washer coming up from the bottom through the existing floor ribs will be plenty strong.
A little paint and clean up, your new brackets will look absolutely perfect.

 

Sit in the seat a while, checking for comfort. Looks to me like you need to adjust the seat up in front to get more support to the leg. IMO, it is important to have a bucket seat centered behind the steering wheel. Take time to fit the seat to your comfort. Your size and body make up will determine what the best position for the seat to be.

 

It doesn't appear the tube steel is sitting flat on the ribs in the floor.

 

You just need a cover, the support looks good. I'm not sure if it isn't sitting flat or if just seeing the shadow where the tubing curves at the edges.
When you do the interior you could have fabric covered covers on the sides and front if it bothers you. Paint might work too.

 

I'll send a close up soon.

 

Albuq- when u say ribs in the floor, do u mean the section that is "raised" ?? If so, that's where original bolt holes are for the bench seat.

 

Yes, and that is a good place to attach, but your connection needs to sit flat on it. If the tube steel doesn't, you'll need to add pieces on the bottom to make a solid connection. A piece of angle iron on the side, maybe?

 

Only you can decide if the mounts are the correct size as Ray says. Sit in the seat for at least 1/2 hr holding the wheel and moving the controls as well as noticing what part of the windshield you are looking thru when comfortably looking straight ahead, looking just over the edge of the hood, and like looking at a traffic light, as well as at the instruments. After 30 minutes your body will start telling you if the seat is at the right height/position. If the seat mounting to the floor concerns you, a 3" diameter 1/8" thick doubler under the floor is better than tubing which will crush. Use 3/8" grade 5 NF bolts NOT grade 8 bolts to mount a seat! (grade 5 will bend and/or stretch, grade 8 will snap).

 

Gr 5 or Gr 8 bolts will both stretch/bend, neither is brittle. The difference is at what load they will fail after stretching to their limits. Gr 8 will fail at about 20% higher loads. What's more important is to have the bolt head and nut faces, and the surfaces clamped together, all parallel and with no gaps.

 

I agree with the comments about either beveling or curving the leading and trailing edges and capping them off. It would just smooth out the look of them.

Like Ross mentioned, since the front floor rib is higher than the rear rib your bracket is sitting at an angle to both ribs. Ideally you'd like for the bracket to be flush with the rib. You could either add some angle washers (like the type used to fasten bolts tot he flanges of "C" channel or "I" beams, or put a shim at the rear rib to raise it up to the same level as the front.

It is well worth the time and energy to sit in the seat for some time before deciding where it should be bolted down at. Take your time, make sure it fits you and is comfy.



Bobby

 

Here's an idea, angle iron on each side