Starts then dies after sitting a few days
#1
Starts then dies after sitting a few days
Alright. I've noticed after sitting for 36-48 hours I sometimes have a fire up and run for 2 seconds and die issue. Lots of cranking to
restart. I don't have AE yet (I wish I did), but tell me if I'm on the right track here to start troubleshooting:
I have a long crank (4 seconds of cranking probably) to start regardless, hot or cold, plugged in or not.I know it needs glow plugs also,
they are sitting on my bench waiting to go in, just not that worried about it yet in May, unless you think I should before I start
troubleshooting this issue.
First step, check HPOP oil level.
If that's fine, does it sound like I have a fuel issue?
restart. I don't have AE yet (I wish I did), but tell me if I'm on the right track here to start troubleshooting:
I have a long crank (4 seconds of cranking probably) to start regardless, hot or cold, plugged in or not.I know it needs glow plugs also,
they are sitting on my bench waiting to go in, just not that worried about it yet in May, unless you think I should before I start
troubleshooting this issue.
First step, check HPOP oil level.
If that's fine, does it sound like I have a fuel issue?
#5
#6
I believe there is a check valve in the HPOP which is letting it drain back to the LPOP. Could be that it isn't closing all the way.
Once you crank the motor, the LPOP refills the HPOP and eventually you get fuel pressure again.
I am sure someone else will jump on here with more details. I have been lucky enough to have only replaced a o-ring on my HPOP so I never dug into that deep.
I do know tho...if the HPOP gets too low, it doesn't work the injectors and then no fuel to cylinders. Running low on engine oil will do this to it as well. Kind of like its own protection system.
Once you crank the motor, the LPOP refills the HPOP and eventually you get fuel pressure again.
I am sure someone else will jump on here with more details. I have been lucky enough to have only replaced a o-ring on my HPOP so I never dug into that deep.
I do know tho...if the HPOP gets too low, it doesn't work the injectors and then no fuel to cylinders. Running low on engine oil will do this to it as well. Kind of like its own protection system.
#7
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#8
Update: Not only was my HPOP level not a half inch or inch below the top, it is empty, or so close to it I couldn't see down any farther. Where is the check valve, and how do I go about checking it? Or, for that matter any other things I should start looking at now that we know my HPOP is draining?
Side note, I think I may have solved my long crank (4 seconds or so) time issue also, my batteries are only at about 10.5 volts or so sitting in the driveway.
Side note, I think I may have solved my long crank (4 seconds or so) time issue also, my batteries are only at about 10.5 volts or so sitting in the driveway.
#10
#13
Taken from this post:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4027650
Since the check valve is so uncommonly the problem, should I really be starting there?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4027650
Originally Posted by mueckster
I emailed Dieselmann about the draining of the HPOP reservoir. This was his response.
"Either a leaking reservoir gasket or HP pump gasket. They can be leaking internally into the timing cover, so you would not necessarily see oil on the engine. In some cases a porous reservoir or timing cover, or an internal HP pump problem can cause the reservoir to leak down, but this typically takes longer. Your reservoir has a standpipe cast into the housing that causes the reservoir to fill from the top. This eliminates the need for a check valve on the fill side on the reservoir, as was used in the 94/95 engines." I hope this answers some questions
"Either a leaking reservoir gasket or HP pump gasket. They can be leaking internally into the timing cover, so you would not necessarily see oil on the engine. In some cases a porous reservoir or timing cover, or an internal HP pump problem can cause the reservoir to leak down, but this typically takes longer. Your reservoir has a standpipe cast into the housing that causes the reservoir to fill from the top. This eliminates the need for a check valve on the fill side on the reservoir, as was used in the 94/95 engines." I hope this answers some questions
#15