$70 on ebay, with hardware for both..


after


one of the tow hooks with bolts and threaded bracket to slip inside frame rail

 

Threw a code the other day,"#4 cylinder misfire". When I replaced the wires and spark plugs last fall I let a wire droop onto the exhaust manifold and it was shorting out. Removed the droop and used electrical tape to insulate the wire until I can buy another one. Reset the check engine light.

 

I replaced my air cleaner element on my 2001 Sportrac 6 cyl. Got in there with a parts cleaning brush and a vacuum to get a butt load of waxy, caked sand and residue left from previous owners lack of doing so. Got under the battery tray and replaced the purge vent solenoid and changed the oil out along with a a new Motorcraft filter I had to run to the dealer for beforehand. Cleaned up the battery posts and cabling which removed the p0456 code I had along the way. Let her idle for 20 mins to relearn the idle and took her out for along drive to set up my shift points....Phew!
Left the throttle body cleaning for another day along with 6 new plugs and soldering on a new battery ground terminal.... Much better fuel economy on the bottom end now along with better throttle response, power.

 

Installed ujoints in the rear driveshaft. I used the brute force from NAPA. Helped my high speed vibration a lot but still a bit to figure out.

 

While driving from CO to FL, stopped outside of Atlanta for 5 Eddie Bauer 17" wheels off Craigslist for our Explorer, Thankfully the Excursion has room for our dog, 3 adults, all our stuff for a 2 week trip, AND 5 wheels. Score!

 

Put my cheap Harbor Freight door trim tools to work, popping the lumbar **** and seat back recliner lever off.
removed 4 - 15mm bolts attaching seat to floor, moved seat all the way forward to remove back bolts and screw holding seat side cover/trim on.
Ran seat back to remove 2 front screws, disconnect battery.
Flip seat on right side to remove screw underneath and remove side panel.
remove wire connector, squeeze side clips and switch falls out.

Reverse the process to install.
Now in 100* hot weather, the seat heater is not STUCK on. 😁👌

 

Did a road trip a couple of weeks ago and discovered that all but 1 of my USB lighter plug in ports were dead. So I went online looking for hard wired USB ports and after pages of round accessory plug replacement ports I found these 'rocker switch' beauties along with a L.E.D. light up on-off switch. Last Friday I took out the center console, laid out the placement of the switch and USB's and using a 1/8" drill and a file I got the console modified. Wired them up so they are only on when I want/need them on, powered thru the stock accessory plug, added taps to power & ground. Powered the switch indicator light thru a tap into the stereo power supply.

Would show pics but the ones I uploaded aren't showing up. Maybe they'll appear later.

 

After having my positive battery cable corrode thru about 6 weeks ago my truck failed to start last Saturday due to MORE corrosion requiring me to take apart the positive cable end to clean out the new corrosion and reassemble. Not wanting to repeat this B.S. again in 6 weeks I found that I can either spend $50-$100 per cable to replace my battery cables or i can spend $40ish to replace the ends. SO after not having enough work today, tomorrow is my weekend, I went about replacing both the positive and negative cable ends. Also bought the "battery anti-corrosion grease" and covered, after assembly, both battery posts and cables with it. I hate working on batteries.

 

$1125 auction win. The city of Parsippany parked it a couple years ago with 99k, behind the sewage plant. I thought they parked because of a rusted brake line. It also had broken exhaust manifold studs, AND a dent in the hatch and a broken fog lamp, the leather steering wheel was warn. I wound up pulling the heads, and taking to a shop to extract the broken bolts. The chain guards were in excellent condition as where the phasers and chains.. yes there are 2 chains on a Ford Modified V8 (24 valve)
I learned that you must install the dipstick before tightening down the new manifold. I found some 17" Bauer Wheels and 245/70 Wranglers. I stuck a flat soccer ball inside the hatch and the dent POPPED out like perfect.

This beast runs soooo smooth, yet I failed PA emissions, and the Inspection station said it needed a front left ball joint. I chased P0171 and P0174 codes (lean, both banks) for about a month. I read and read, watch a lot of You Tubes. Replaced both Cam Position Sensors, and paid full retail for a Mass Air Flow. All three improved the performance, but the lean condition persevered.

Yesterday, I managed to borrow a Solus Edge from a friend

Long Term Fuel Trims were both 25 at idle
Short Terms were dancing around 12-24 at idle

At 2000 rpms, both long and short went back to spec, which were close to 14.7

So, I knew the up and down stream O2 sensors were working.

and I also knew there was a vacuum leak.

I created my own smoker using cigars, a jar and a Transfer Pump. I generated a lot of smoke... but no leaks.

So today I pulled the intake, and sure enough, one of the eight rubber gaskets had failed.

I have a smile inside, as the CEL is gone.

And it's getting 16 around town.. up and down hills and a lot of heavy footed take offs.




Next. I gotta knock out that ball joint and then back to the shop to get my stickers


I'll get another 4.6 to work to fix and sale. And a Solus Edge.

 

Heads up these codes are back. P0171, P0174 I have some moderate mechanical ability.

Solus Edge also had said failed Vacuum EVAP, but no EVAP code.

where do I look?

 

I am still not passing emissions here in PA.

UPDATE on the 2006 Ford Explorer 4X4 Insta Trac RSC 4.6 V8 6 speed auto

Note; When I erase codes, I disconnect the negative and run a jumper to the positive. Then I turn the Key On. This is a MUST for solving code issues. Period.

The cold idle is rough. It smooths out once warmed up, in about a minute. I am getting 14.5 to 15 MPG local driving. The highway is 25 miles from here.

About 2 weeks have gone by. 175 miles from erase all codes. CEL, code P0430 popped up (for the first time). I was thrilled that it wasn't 0171 or 0174. I cleared again, drove 100.1 miles. CEL, P0430 popped up again. Dumped in "CRC Guarantee to Pass" special formula to gas tank. I am on my 88th mile.

The simple directions on the "CRC Guarantee to Pass";
1. dump the bottle in a full tank.
2. Run the tank out.
3. Refill the tank.
4. Go get the inspection.

*I've had my vacuum gauge hooked up at the brake booster. I am getting a very steady 24lbs @ all speeds. A snap WOT barely moves it a pound or two down, but it recovers in a split second. @Idle, I pulled the EGR elbow off, and vacuum dropped to 18. I cannot find any information about vacuum too high on the Internets. The CONCLUSIVE evidence, is my CATS are flowing freely. Restricted exhaust or a vacuum leak would lower the vacuum readings.

*I used an INFRA RED Lazer-no touch thermometer, with RPMS at 2500. Motor running for 5 minutes.

Bank 1 top weld reads 280 to 330 degrees F
Bank 1 bottom weld reads in the mid 400's

Bank 2 top weld is 280 to 300 degrees
Bank 2 bottom weld is 350 to 380 degrees.

*conclusion.. Bank 2 Cat is barely performing it's duty. OR the downstream O2 Sensor is not firing.

I have a new Bosch 02 sitting on the bench in the garage, ready for the next battle.

*With the CRC Guarantee to Pass, I have driven 10 miles in 3rd Gear, hoping to generate enough downstream heat at 3,000 rpms to FIRE the 02 sensors. Ya know? I might just have something here. Next step is to run the temp gun again.

 

Thanks for all the replies.. Geesch.

I PASSED THE INSPECTION

What a ridiculous thing. The station still nicked me for a ball joint.

I was like.. JUST F*G give me a sticker already.

h/t to "CRC's Guarantee to Pass" special magic elixer.

 

Yesterday my parts for my 04 explorer showed up from rock auto. I ordered front/back struts, spark plugs, fuel pump, and sun visor brackets. Today I started on the rear struts. When fairly easy with a couple tough bolts. The second rear went fast. I started pre spraying with penetrating oil. The fronts were cake compared to the rear. The plugs had no issues and I like the replacement brackets for the visors. My visors dont have lights on the mirrors so it was pretty straight forward. I think I will get to the fuel pump next weekend when the tank isnt full.

 

probably a mouse nest in there as well. see no.136

 

i replaced the blower fan for the a/c, added another ground strap cleaned all the junk out, replaced both tail light lenses and bulbs, scrubbed the body with Mr clean magic erasers and simple green, then it started snowing and didn't stop until it was over the running board. now all i need is a battery and a few minor piddly things, and i drained the water and antifreeze before it got cold because i was going to flush the cooling system haven't refilled it yet, going to change all the hoses and thermostat as well. all will be done when it warms up and i can get to the truck.