2003 cab and chassis, auto, 115k miles. I've been battleing this thing for the better part of 5 years now. This is what has been done recently, new plastic fuel tank, HFCM, filters and blue spring upgrade. New oil rail nipples and orings, pulled all injectors, cleaned the spool valves, new orings and washers. Truck runs like crap. Took it to the shop and hooked it up to a snap on and got the following readings under the drivability menu......

RPM 603
APP1 (V) 4.07
APP2 1.40
APP3 .85
ARPMDS 0
BARO KPM 98
BARO HZ 157
CMP FAULT NO
CPP/TCS ON
DSD RPM 640
ECT FAULT NO
ENG BCD% 42
EOT F 192
EOT V 1.08
EOT FAULT NO
FDSP EDC 3GPL OFF
FP% 100
FPM ON
FICM LPWR V 13.5
FICM LPWR V 48
FICM SYNC YES
FICM POWER 13.5
IAT (F) 104
IAT (V) 2.40
IAT 2(V) 2.88
ICP DSD 4406
ICP PRESS 4414
ICP V .90
INJ PRESS REG% 24
INJ TIM -5.2
MDLRN YES
MAF 1.50
AIR FLOW G/S 34.74
MAF FAULT NO
MAP 103
MFDES 17
MGP 2
PIP CTR 6
PIP HIGH LOW
PIP LEVEL OFF
SYNC YES
TORQUE 110
TP FAULT NO
VFDES 18

We also did a cylinder test and got high numbers on 1,3,5 and 7. He said at a minimum those injectors needed to be replaced. When I got the truck running the other day after doing all of the injector work, I unplugged each injector while it was running and 6 was clickking while plugged in, when I unplugged it the clicking went away however it had no affect on the engine so that one is def dead.

From the get go, the truck has always had a running out of fuel feeling after pulling a long grade or really getting into it for a while....not sure if this is a result of some bad injectors or not. This has become a personnal challenge to get this sucker running the way its supposed to, thanks in advance! Matt

 

Are you showing any DTC's? You should perform a bubble test, remove the secondary filter and with the filter and cap removed crank the engine over as shown in this video and watch for bubbles. The injectors could have suffered damage from low fuel pressure that cleaning the spool valves will not repair. Also make sure you are using only OEM oil/fuel and air filters with an OEM oil filter cap. You would be amazed at how bad it will run with 1 bad injector. The purpose for cranking the engine in this manner is that it will not attempt to start and the fuel pump will not run,

 

Your readings are off on the ICP:

ICP DSD 4406
ICP PRESS 4414
ICP V .90

If you have volts of .90 the actual pressure would be 630. Which, if you are at idle, as it looks like you were, that would be correct for the 03.

So the question is, why is desired so high?

Here is a chart on Volts vs. pressure for ICP

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12414247

Your IPR is in the correct range for idle.

How is the pig tail for the ICP?

 

The bubble test is next on my list as well as the ICP. I looke dfor the ICP yesterday but was unable to locate. I thought I had it and took it out but it ended up being what I'm assuming was the block heater. After my bath in anti freeze, I reinstalled it and took itto the garage for readings. Whats the best way to access the ICP on an 03?

 

spanky350, do you have the Spread Sheets?

If not, send me an e-mail at amdriven2liv@yahoo.com

I'll send them over. Has all the info you need to get that ICP sensor out from under the turbo.

Example:

How to replace early ICP - with pictures - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

 

I wouldn't read too much into the Snap-On scanners ability to interpret that data correctly.

Josh

 

Ok, thank you. I see the charts but I'm not sure what I should do with the info. I'm going to change the ICP and pigtail when I go in to change the #6 injector. And no DTCs. It just always seems like its running out fuel.

 

ICP sensor looks just fine.

Josh

 

You need to do a fuel pressure ck, sound like low fuel pressure to me.

 

I have good pressure @ 60+ on a gauge. Just seems like something is preventing the fuel from getting where it needs to go.

 

So those numbers indicate the ICP sensor is working fine? I was thinking maybe if I have a bad injector or 2,3 or4 allowing combustion gas back in the fuel system it could be introducing combustion gasses back into the fuel supply. Am I barking up the right tree?

 

If the injectors aren't sealing and allowing gases back in (bubble test) how does that lead one to replace the sensor?

Josh

 

Gotcha! I dont want to replace anything else that doesn't need to be replaced. I'll do a quick bubble test first just to make sure and order the 4 injectors Since I just had it all apart, it should be a breeze