6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

New 6.0 Owner with Questions

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  #16  
Old 04-22-2014, 10:14 AM
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I can't start a new thread sorry to hijack. I'm about an hour from home and all is fine then radio and dash panel inclspeedo rpm etc goes off for a min then comes back on and then off again Any ideas and is it safe to drive?
 
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Old 04-22-2014, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by hanklin
safe to drive?
Not sure which rig you're in ... are your gauges telling you anything interesting? (Especially wondering what your voltage reading is) Does it keep happening even after shutting down and restarting?
 
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by flainn
Dealers typically send something that old to auction anyway. I was surprised how little they cared about the condition of our '94 F-250 (with 330k on it) or our '96 Mercedes (225k). Their attitude was pretty much "whatever."
I probably should have noted that was back in '02 when we traded the Tahoe in...
 
  #19  
Old 04-22-2014, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hanklin
I can't start a new thread sorry to hijack. I'm about an hour from home and all is fine then radio and dash panel inclspeedo rpm etc goes off for a min then comes back on and then off again Any ideas and is it safe to drive?
I'm in my Exc and Scan gauge shows no codes
 
  #20  
Old 04-22-2014, 03:45 PM
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Don't get me wrong about the Suburban, it was a beast, never had a hiccup but the shocks were shot which were the electronic ones with air ride on the rear and with no aftermarket solution they were going to be over $1k EACH. That coupled with the climate control computer going out was the final straw for it. The motor was a little tired with 200k on it and she wanted something different.
 
  #21  
Old 04-22-2014, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by hanklin
I can't start a new thread sorry to hijack. I'm about an hour from home and all is fine then radio and dash panel inclspeedo rpm etc goes off for a min then comes back on and then off again Any ideas and is it safe to drive?
The instrument panel suffered from some of the same issues as the overhead display and digital climate control panel as far as soldering woes on the circuit board. Low battery/charging voltage can make weird things happen also. If it runs ok and battery voltage is good I would chance it.
 
  #22  
Old 04-22-2014, 05:34 PM
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I made it home. I did call Scott (04 badford) and he essentially told me the same thing. I had a phone charger gps and SC2 going plus climbing a hill so I hope thats what overloaded me. I am going to get a new alternator this weekend. Which one? I read on here about a awesome aftermarket one.
Thanks guys for this great network known as FTE
 
  #23  
Old 04-22-2014, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by catalinaflyer
I'm going to assume that by the $4k price tag you paid to have the work done because I've been looking all day at ARP stud kits, head gasket kits, oil coolers and unless I'm missing something major I can get all the parts for about $1k. The only thing I can't do myself is true the heads because my mill is already broke down for moving. Our new house here in Toledo doesn't have 3 phase yet so unless I spend $16k getting it or a couple grand on a converter I'm dead in the water.
well, welcome to the forum. you ended up in the right spot.

if these guys say... "ummm... do this...." smart money is to do it.

don't roll on three phase to a private residence unless you have
more three phase loads than a mill.... and if you are gonna run
a converter, for gods sake don't run a solid state "add a phase"....
i've replaced half a dozen of them for customers after they catch fire.
use a motor-generator unit.

for that matter, i've got a brand new roto phase sitting in a box in the
garage, and i'd probably dump it for a couple hundred bucks. it's a
m-g unit, a three horsepower one, if memory serves.

shoot me a PM if it's anything you might need. it needs a new home.
i'm cleaning out my garage. i bought a new race bike, and need to
make a home for it.
 
  #24  
Old 04-22-2014, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hanklin
I made it home. I did call Scott (04 badford) and he essentially told me the same thing. I had a phone charger gps and SC2 going plus climbing a hill so I hope thats what overloaded me. I am going to get a new alternator this weekend. Which one? I read on here about a awesome aftermarket one.
Thanks guys for this great network known as FTE
i'd look long and hard at DC Power, in so calif.

their stuff is excellent....
 
  #25  
Old 04-22-2014, 07:18 PM
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Thanks Fulthrotl
 
  #26  
Old 04-22-2014, 07:41 PM
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I feel for him, Toledo Edison has to pay for the Davis Besse Nuclear power somehow. I use a 5hp converter an old electrician made up for me to generate the 3rd leg to run my mill and lathe.
 
  #27  
Old 04-22-2014, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Fulthrotl
well, welcome to the forum. you ended up in the right spot.

if these guys say... "ummm... do this...." smart money is to do it.

don't roll on three phase to a private residence unless you have
more three phase loads than a mill.... and if you are gonna run
a converter, for gods sake don't run a solid state "add a phase"....
i've replaced half a dozen of them for customers after they catch fire.
use a motor-generator unit.

for that matter, i've got a brand new roto phase sitting in a box in the
garage, and i'd probably dump it for a couple hundred bucks. it's a
m-g unit, a three horsepower one, if memory serves.

shoot me a PM if it's anything you might need. it needs a new home.
i'm cleaning out my garage. i bought a new race bike, and need to
make a home for it.
Oh trust me, I tried one of the solid state converters ONCE and after burning up a 5hp motor that cost more than the converter I will never run without a rotary again.

With all of that being said, I don't think I'll have enough power at the new home to run a converter. I have 3ph here at my office and can install my lathe and mill here but then I have to drive 24 miles round trip in the middle of the night when I need a one-off part for one of my planes. (Giant scale Radio Control racing) In all honesty I could do 90% of what I normally do with a Sherline or a Unimat but the Unimat's are hard to come by.

Originally Posted by Maxium4x4
I feel for him, Toledo Edison has to pay for the Davis Besse Nuclear power somehow. I use a 5hp converter an old electrician made up for me to generate the 3rd leg to run my mill and lathe.
Yup TE wants me to make next months payment on Besse just to get the power I want to my house. In their defense though, I'm almost 1/2 mile from 3ph and no need for them to run it into my neighborhood for just one user.
 
  #28  
Old 04-22-2014, 09:35 PM
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A single phase input 3 phase output vfd is an option too. 3hp single in 3p out
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Drives/DURApulse_-_GS3_(230_-z-_460_VAC_Sensorless_Vector_Control)/DURApulse_-_GS3_Drive_Units_(230_-z-_460_VAC_SLV)/GS3-23P0
 
  #29  
Old 04-27-2014, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 78fordman
A single phase input 3 phase output vfd is an option too. 3hp single in 3p out
GS3-23P0
I've tried one of those solid state converters in the past and although not this brand I had very bad results with it. It would provide 3 phase to start then drop to single phase when running. The end result, I burned up a 5hp motor which cost 5 times what I spent on the converter.

All is well though, I found a machine shop near home that wanted my bigger 3 phase stuff in trade for their smaller single phase Enco and Bridgeport. They're even paying the machinery movers to move mine to their shop and load the trades onto the moving truck for me.

I'm having Toledo Edison run a separate 200 amp dedicated service to my new detached garage/shop which is supposed to be done by the end of next week. That should make the missus happy as I won't be dimming the lights in the house every time I strike an arc with my TIG or hit the start button on the mill.
 
  #30  
Old 04-27-2014, 04:28 PM
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Quick update on my wife's new F-250. She wound up driving it all week because my mothers car lost the fuel pump so she was driving our 350Z. Miss Jenny said the truck has been running perfect but I'm still concerned about the oil residue in the Degas. So I'm sitting here getting ready to hit the order button on a new oil cooler and EGR delete kit. I would rather replace the EGR cooler and keep it stock but without being there in person to see which motor I have I can't figure out which cooler I have.

I'm going to have limited time when I land next Saturday to pack up all my shop, finish up some stuff on the house and get the truck ready to tow a 30' pontoon boat 900 miles. With that being said I want the kit sitting there when I land so I'm going to go the delete route with a new oil cooler along with a good flushing then a prayer. If I can get it to make it to Toledo I'll put the wife in my F-350 while I pull the heads on her 250 and take care of it.
 


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