Guys I'm deleted and tuned, no egr delete yet...
I'm at 5,000 miles and going to change my oil and fuel filters since I've only been deleted about 2,500 miles and had the hpfp changed just 5k ago I'm changing the fuel filters to see what they look like...
Now since I'm deleted my question is can i run amsoil for long intervals? By long I'm meaning 15,000... If not what oil are you guys running? I ran t6 in my 6.0 but do i need that expensive of an oil in a common rail engine?
Now part 2 truck has 58,000 on it, since I'm tuned i figure I'll change the Trans. Question is i see a few different options there are.. Something about hot then one where they flush it.. What should i do i was going to just drop the pan change filter and replace with good oil... if so do you guys think amsoil is a good Trans fluid, and how many qts? I read 19 but what does 19 cover the hot flush change out the filter and dropping the pan

also just to I've got 2 black stone kits coming for the engine and trans..

 

Lots to cover here, I have been tuned for about 20,000 miles, Blackstones come back fantastic, I run Bradd Penn oil and go about 8,000 miles on a change. Although I no longer have any fuel dilution I don't think I would push it any farther than what I'm at. Just not worth the pain and suffering of having a rocker arm go or something worse. Even though most say fuel dilution causes most of the 6.4 internal issues no need to push the issue. Use a good grade oil and OEM filters and all should be good.
They say the correct thing to do for the transmission is to find a good dealer and have the heated flush done, that being said I do all my own work on my truck if at all possible. Right or wrong I changed the filter and 9 quarts of oil and carried on, I wouldn't use any trans fluid other than Motorcraft.
Welcome to the 6.4, keep the water separator drained and run an additive to help with fuel lubricity.

 

Thanks guys so are you guys running synthetics or not? Im sure you couldn't do extended drains with conventional.. I just don't know if amsoil is worth the money. It sure is pricey

 

Im deleted, run mobil 1 and change every 6,000 to 6,500 miles, blackstone report are great but i just feel like changing it then.

 

I used to run synthetics but changing at 5000 I started using the dino oil and my Blackstone reports actually got better. I just don't think the synthetics are worth it unless you have wide temp extremes or can get extended to work for you, which I don't personally think would be good for these engines. Just my .02

 

I personally would never go 15k miles on any vehicle I owned, regardless of oil type. It may be overkill but I change mine at a maximum of 5000 miles and I use Rotella T6. I always say the oil is the life blood of the engine and the last place you want to be frugal with. Now that being said, you could just use dino oil and change it more frequently.

 

Right, I've never gone over 5 either but i was hoping since i am deleted that i could at least get 7,500? i mean i don't use the truck hard, just occasional loads but mostly just get out once a week and run it to work... I bought t6 today and ordered Blackstone kits for the Trans and motor so when they come in I'll change everything out and see how the report looks... Last oil change was all motor craft oils.

 

I would think 7500 with that oil would be fine. I don't drive mine a lot and 7500 miles may take a entire year. So I end up changing the oil more based on time then mileage. Wal-Mart has T6 for $21 for a gallon with a mail in rebate right now.

 

I use cheap walmart diesel 15w40 oil, and change ever 5000km.

I know guys that run synthetic, but their stuff still wears out and breaks, so the only advantage looks like easier cold starts.

I'll just plug it in.

 

5K oil changes are my recommendation. Even if deleted valve train wear is the enemy and good oil change intervals help with that.

 

I run 5w40 in winter and rotella 15w40 in summer. Did a Blackstone on the 5w40 that went almost 7K miles. They said the oil was fine but some of the impurities it was picking up suggested it be changed sooner. I try for 5K intervals but that time it went over. Took another sample on the next change at 5K but keep forgetting to send it in.

 

I always wanted to run 30 or 40 weight , but nobody thinks it's a good idea.
Guys have used it for racing in diesels though, and it protects parts from wearing out when 15w40 and synthetic failed, so I don't know why that sounds like a bad idea.

10w30 is 10 w oil with polymers and chemicals
15w40 is 15 weight with junk added to thicken it up.

Some guys, say that straight weight oil is superior for high load engines.
Maybe I'll try it, making sure I have an oil pan heater along with the block heater.

 

Once my kits come in I'll let you guys know how the motor craft fairs... Any thoughts on the Trans, as far as what i should do id rather stay away from my dealer but if its a must it can go there... I'm just not big on paying extreme prices for shop labor and parts

 

I use Rotella T6 synthetic 5W40 summer and 0W 40 winter here in Canada. Synthetics are the way to go as contaminants in these diesels do build up and synthetic resist contamination and breakdown better. I also agree I would never go 15,000 mile between any oil change - 5000 on conventional and 7,500 on syn's (good oils).
Sold my 86 4x4 last year with 321,000 on it and motor (302 gas) was still perky- Synthetic oils started in 89 and all the way since then

Bruce

 

Bruce

All km not miles