2nd Gen Compressor Wheel (don't know what to think)
#1
2nd Gen Compressor Wheel (don't know what to think)
Hey all finally back home from my quarterly travels ! I was ready to get home to install the goodies i got for christmas. So yesterday i started on everything and finally wrapped it up about lunch today. Heres what i had to tackle.....
1. IH Bellowed Uppies
2. Turbo Re-Build with the new RiffRaff 2nd Generation Compressor Wheel
3. HPX
4.FRx
5. AIH Delete
SO everything went smooth and had little trouble. No leaks from hpx or frx, turbo rebuild went good and the uppies were a PITA but once the oldies were removed installation of the new ones were a breeze.
So I'm curious about this 2nd Gen compressor wheel. Just so were all on the same page here is a link to what i installed......
Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
It looks awesome and super aggressive but not sure if i like it. I broke the turbo in as its suggested before i did any real testing of the wheel. So at low boost between say 2 and 4 lb that thing is super SUPER loud. The whistle it makes dose not even sound like a crisp whistle but more like driving 70mph down the highway with something hanging out the window making noise (if that makes sense). First i though something internally was wrong when i hit 2lb for the first time. In the cab windows up its REALLY loud at cursing speed.
There were to guys selling honey on the side of the road and i got a really funny look LOL !!!!! Has anyone else running these experience the same ?
Also it says it would add 3 to 4 lb of boost. I seem like I'm down 2lbs. Haven't really really romped on it but i got in it probably 3/4 or a little more and only hit 15psi.
I couldn't imagine the NEW bellows leaking. I checked 3times to make sure they were all lined up and seated correctly while tightening the bolts evenly. Even felt around all the connections by hand @ 1500 high idle and could feel no leaks either. New oring on the new AIH plug all my boots are from clay and are in excellent shape tight and have no oil residue due to the ccv mod.
All in all i guess id like to get others opinions on how they like wheel compared to the stock wheel or the wicked wheel which i was running. Is yours super loud can you tell a extreme difference etc. Honnestly if i lost a lb or two of boost and it just makes a bunch of noise with no benefit then I'm pulling it out. But like i said i would appreciate some feed back on others who are running it or have run it before i yank it out. Thanks Y'all and happy early easter !
1. IH Bellowed Uppies
2. Turbo Re-Build with the new RiffRaff 2nd Generation Compressor Wheel
3. HPX
4.FRx
5. AIH Delete
SO everything went smooth and had little trouble. No leaks from hpx or frx, turbo rebuild went good and the uppies were a PITA but once the oldies were removed installation of the new ones were a breeze.
So I'm curious about this 2nd Gen compressor wheel. Just so were all on the same page here is a link to what i installed......
Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
It looks awesome and super aggressive but not sure if i like it. I broke the turbo in as its suggested before i did any real testing of the wheel. So at low boost between say 2 and 4 lb that thing is super SUPER loud. The whistle it makes dose not even sound like a crisp whistle but more like driving 70mph down the highway with something hanging out the window making noise (if that makes sense). First i though something internally was wrong when i hit 2lb for the first time. In the cab windows up its REALLY loud at cursing speed.
There were to guys selling honey on the side of the road and i got a really funny look LOL !!!!! Has anyone else running these experience the same ?
Also it says it would add 3 to 4 lb of boost. I seem like I'm down 2lbs. Haven't really really romped on it but i got in it probably 3/4 or a little more and only hit 15psi.
I couldn't imagine the NEW bellows leaking. I checked 3times to make sure they were all lined up and seated correctly while tightening the bolts evenly. Even felt around all the connections by hand @ 1500 high idle and could feel no leaks either. New oring on the new AIH plug all my boots are from clay and are in excellent shape tight and have no oil residue due to the ccv mod.
All in all i guess id like to get others opinions on how they like wheel compared to the stock wheel or the wicked wheel which i was running. Is yours super loud can you tell a extreme difference etc. Honnestly if i lost a lb or two of boost and it just makes a bunch of noise with no benefit then I'm pulling it out. But like i said i would appreciate some feed back on others who are running it or have run it before i yank it out. Thanks Y'all and happy early easter !
#2
I threw mine in before a cross country road trip. Initially I liked it, turbo seemed to light a bit faster and the rare surge I would get was gone so I was happy. Then I started the mountain passes through Colorado and into Albuquerque and I nearly stopped to get ear plugs, lol. Long, not very steep grades had it between 5-8psi and just like you experienced, it sounded damn near like a window was cracked open just a hair. Personally I saw maybe a 2lb increase at WOT in stock mode on the F5. Can't speak for the other modes as the wheel went in before the tuner.
I know they're nicknamed a whistling wheel for a reason but FFS it was irritating.
I know they're nicknamed a whistling wheel for a reason but FFS it was irritating.
#3
Yep the window down sound LOL ! DAMN this this is loud. I haven't gone WOT yet but from normal driving i haven't seen any real increase in PSI. As for any surge...... i had a ww before so no surge. When i bought the truck that was the first thing i did was install the ww to rid the surge and that wheel has been great probably shoulda never took it out LOL
#4
I was almost happy when the turbo got obliterated, I was having a hard time justifying getting rid of huge $200 toy I had just bought and promptly procrastinated installing. Big oil leak, 1/4" of shaft in-out play will destroy a compressor wheel and housing in a hurry, lemme tell ya. And you thought just the wheel was bad? Try enduring the wheel plus the sound of the wheel turning the compressor housing inlet funnel into a washboard surface. Shoot me in the ears with an F'ing B.A.R.
#5
I switched from the original wicked wheel to Clay's 6/6 billet wheel a few months ago. I have not towed with it yet, but I am really liking the performance of the new wheel! In 80e on my F5, I went from 27psi to 33psi with the red line plugged. My turbo lights faster and it amazed me on how fast my boost gauge moves now, it's like I greased the needle!
As far as the sound, I did like the whistle on the original wheel. The new wheel is more of a lot of air gushing sound. I will be towing over the pass in May and let you all know how I feel about it then. For now, I am very pleased with the performance of the new wheel.
As far as the sound, I did like the whistle on the original wheel. The new wheel is more of a lot of air gushing sound. I will be towing over the pass in May and let you all know how I feel about it then. For now, I am very pleased with the performance of the new wheel.
#6
I have used the Riffraff wheel, the WW2, the original WW, and the stock wheel. If you want loud, try the WW2 at about 15 psi. I found the Riffraff wheel to be a lot quieter than the WW I had before it.
Have you double checked all of your boots and clamps? What intake are you running? What compressor housing do you have?
Have you double checked all of your boots and clamps? What intake are you running? What compressor housing do you have?
#7
Thanks for all the help and input guys !!!! just to clear some more air .....
Krazee Matt i just rebuilt the turbo new journal bearings etc. After install there was NO play in or out or up and down just tight as a button and spun freely. Bummer to hear yours blew up. This thing sounds like a 747 taking off at 3 to 5 psi.
Peter not only double checked but triple checked. All are on in the correct position and clamps are tight.
Im running the stock housing with the S&B intake with Dry Flow filter.
I also installed 5 years ago a BD Waste Gate. Installed it just as it came out of the box and never adjusted it. While i had the turbo out i shortened it up by giving the flat end 5 full turns. The directions that came with it in the box stated it was pre set to 22.5 psi. It said a half a turn would do .5psi increase and a full would do 1psi increase. I did 5 full turns. My red line is NOT hooked up either.
Guess i thought after new uppies rebuilt turbo and new wheel and tightening the waste gate up 5 turns i should see way more boost. But like i said i went just over 3/4 throttle not WO and only got it to reach 15psi on my stock tune.
As for my boost gauge its digital running off the MAP sensor i believe. I have the edge Evoultion programmer which sits on my dash with 4 displays one of them which is reading my boost. I leave it on the stock setting as i have a DP F6 for my tuning. The edge plugs up to the OBDII port allowing me to chose what i want to monitor. So i have trans temp, EGTs, EOT, and Boost on the screen. Long winded i know but just want everyone to know how I'm getting my BST readings.
Krazee Matt i just rebuilt the turbo new journal bearings etc. After install there was NO play in or out or up and down just tight as a button and spun freely. Bummer to hear yours blew up. This thing sounds like a 747 taking off at 3 to 5 psi.
Peter not only double checked but triple checked. All are on in the correct position and clamps are tight.
Im running the stock housing with the S&B intake with Dry Flow filter.
I also installed 5 years ago a BD Waste Gate. Installed it just as it came out of the box and never adjusted it. While i had the turbo out i shortened it up by giving the flat end 5 full turns. The directions that came with it in the box stated it was pre set to 22.5 psi. It said a half a turn would do .5psi increase and a full would do 1psi increase. I did 5 full turns. My red line is NOT hooked up either.
Guess i thought after new uppies rebuilt turbo and new wheel and tightening the waste gate up 5 turns i should see way more boost. But like i said i went just over 3/4 throttle not WO and only got it to reach 15psi on my stock tune.
As for my boost gauge its digital running off the MAP sensor i believe. I have the edge Evoultion programmer which sits on my dash with 4 displays one of them which is reading my boost. I leave it on the stock setting as i have a DP F6 for my tuning. The edge plugs up to the OBDII port allowing me to chose what i want to monitor. So i have trans temp, EGTs, EOT, and Boost on the screen. Long winded i know but just want everyone to know how I'm getting my BST readings.
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#9
I have used the Riffraff wheel, the WW2, the original WW, and the stock wheel. If you want loud, try the WW2 at about 15 psi. I found the Riffraff wheel to be a lot quieter than the WW I had before it.
Have you double checked all of your boots and clamps? What intake are you running? What compressor housing do you have?
Have you double checked all of your boots and clamps? What intake are you running? What compressor housing do you have?
I have been looking at the WW2, I like turbo whistle as much as the next guy. But is it annoying loud whistle? Or just noticeably louder. My 7.3 isn't anywhere near quiet in the cab. But it doesn't need to sound anymore louder in the cab then it is.
#10
No i sure don't. I was thinking about that though.... How dose the PCM control that ? Im curious if its starts to defuel prematurely or right at a certain psi. EX like at 14 or 15 it starts to defuel allowing it not to climb higher faster. Or when it reaches 21 or what ever the stk turbos max is it starts there ? Curious on how the PCM controls the defuel because like i said my runs were in stk tune.
I would imagine Jody would have set up my DP differently or raised those values. I will throw it in 80e tomm and see my results.
Just don't get it though why i hear folks saying STOCK !!!!! they see over 20. Stock is stock to me.... NO boost fooler, or wheels or ported housings etc. STOCK out the box and getting 20. My edge has a records log so i can thumb back and see my max temps bst psi rpms, speed etc. Last i looked before the upgrades i hit like 19.5 or 20 something and there is no telling what tune i was in or what i was doing.
I would imagine Jody would have set up my DP differently or raised those values. I will throw it in 80e tomm and see my results.
Just don't get it though why i hear folks saying STOCK !!!!! they see over 20. Stock is stock to me.... NO boost fooler, or wheels or ported housings etc. STOCK out the box and getting 20. My edge has a records log so i can thumb back and see my max temps bst psi rpms, speed etc. Last i looked before the upgrades i hit like 19.5 or 20 something and there is no telling what tune i was in or what i was doing.
#11
Also, keep in mind that a drop in 2lbs of boost isn't necessarily a negative thing. Boost is measured in pressure (psi) , so when you remove some restriction in the stock system you are allowing the air to pass through more freely. Think of it as a water hose, when you turn the faucet all the way on and pinch the hose you get more pressure since the passage way is restricted and trying to pass the same volume of water. When you remove the restriction you allow the water volume to move through the hose more freely but at less pressure. Now in a closed system like our beloved 7.3L's the pressure will continue to increase as the turbo compressor wheel pushes more air. But when you compress air in a fixed volume system like our engines you increase the compressed air temp as well.
In comes the new generation WW's. Designed to give us more air in the rpm range that we tend to drive in most of the time, instead of at the higher rpm range. So don't get to concerned about the drop in boost - too many time we see a drop as a loss. But if we are getting the necessary volume of air at a lower temperature then it's an even trade.
Edit: to expand on this - If you do a modification that results in slightly lower boost psi and you do not have any boost leaks then check to see if you also have a drop in EGT's. If you do the lower boost reading could be from lower EGT's which is a good thing.
In comes the new generation WW's. Designed to give us more air in the rpm range that we tend to drive in most of the time, instead of at the higher rpm range. So don't get to concerned about the drop in boost - too many time we see a drop as a loss. But if we are getting the necessary volume of air at a lower temperature then it's an even trade.
Edit: to expand on this - If you do a modification that results in slightly lower boost psi and you do not have any boost leaks then check to see if you also have a drop in EGT's. If you do the lower boost reading could be from lower EGT's which is a good thing.
#12
I just got back from driving my truck. I went up a good size hill and ran it at 6 to 8 psi, it wasn't that loud. I also romped on it a little and it wasn't that bad. It is more of a whoosh sound than the whistle of the original WW. I hope more people chime in, cause I am still sold on this wheel!
#13
The whistle is not a high pitched sharp sound but more of a med to low toned loud flat whistle.
#14
I just got back from driving my truck. I went up a good size hill and ran it at 6 to 8 psi, it wasn't that loud. I also romped on it a little and it wasn't that bad. It is more of a whoosh sound than the whistle of the original WW. I hope more people chime in, cause I am still sold on this wheel!
#15
Thats a good point Rich guess i didn't really think of it that way. Im not bashing my purchase but just a little shocked at the raquet it makes LOL. I only drove it up to the fillin station and back home so at this point its the noise factor. I will be hooking up my Gooseneck and Skiddy next week so that will be the true test ! 6,500lb trailer and a 10,000lb skiddy with a few attachments ought to make me a believer if its up to the hype !!!!