Howdy All;

Basic curiosity ... Looked at a build sheet for my truck ('04 F250 w/6.0),
supposed to be 4wd.
Build sheet on pg.2 about 1/2 way down (up your choice), Lists;

Rear Axel Differential {EGJ]..........Rear Axel Less Limited Slip Diff [EGJAB0]
Next line reads;
Rear Axel Package [DZN]...........LESS Rear Axel Package [DZNAA5]

From how I read it looks like I have a 3 wheel drive ?????

Question is ... How/What is best method to bring it to a true 4wd???
Go to a limited slip or a locker type rearend?

Thanks for the thoughts.

hank

 

The best course of action is to ignore it. Traction lock can easily be slipped by hand. It's not a big deal. You still have 4 wheel drive.

 

firebirdparts, Howdy;

Thanks for the rapid reply.

I have zero idea of what you are saying... "Traction lock can easily be
slipped by hand.

Don't want to sound sarcastic ... but it may come across that way, sorry.
I was stating that I have neither one of the 2, ... solely a single rear wheel drive
truck and am now a true 3wd and NOT a 4wd. I'm attempting to discover which
of the 2 will give me true 4wd and not tear up my tires when I go around a corner.
I want to have the Left rear wheel do it's fair share an not just roll around like a tourist.
Thanks for your thoughts.

hank

 

It looks like you have an open rear. It does drive both wheels equally if you have equal traction, however unlike a "locking diff" when traction is unequal, it sends more power to the wheel with less traction. To fix this you need some sort of locking differential. Your front axle works the exact same way, although a little better traction due to the weight on the front end, so at best in a worst case scene you have 2wd. I run a Tru Trac in my rear axle, works great 98% of the time, and an Air Locker in the front axle as the steering can get real "interesting" with the front axle locked in the right situation.

 

Howdy All;

Think I have what ya'll refer to as an Open rear...
So now I'm thinking about getting one of the Eaton Detroit TrueTrac
Locker type rears to replace it, basic Part Number is 915A550 for my
10.5 Ford (Sterling).
Do any of ya'll have a Step-by-Step or know of a good one that shows
(with enough pix), for someone that has never done the swap but has
decent mechanical skills. A video is best for me.
I don't anticipate having to replace the pinion gear or have to deal with
the crush washer. Will cross that river should the need arise. I've seen
YouTubes for the 8 inch rears and need to know if that would apply.
Thanks for any thoughts.

hank

 

There is nothing wrong with an open differential. People have been using them for countless decades. If you know how to modulate your brakes when you start breaking traction (poor mans locker) they work quite well.

 

redford, Howdy;

I realize that your requirements and mine may be different, I've been through the stuck on a slope by a wet blade of grass and braking judiciously
didn't help then. In the mountains of Southwest NM it's not always the prudent thing to use the brakes when trying to maintain forward momentum. If both rear wheels can not put power to the ground you just won't make any progress. Some of the Forest service roads require 4wd and even with the front diff. engaged and the front wheels locked you will still
need both rear wheels to have power to get to the fishing hole. Loose gravel
can be a B**** when going up a 7,8, or 9 % grade with ruts and holes.
However, I digress, do you have any leads for a Step-by-step or a video???

hank

 

The front differential is an open diff as well.

 

Have you looked on you tube for a video? I have seen one on a gm true trac install.

the fundamentals are the same except for the axle removal. you wont have to deal with C-clips. I would check the backlash before and after. the carrier shims may have to be moved around to bring it into spec.


I would get a repair manual and it will have all the torque specs you need.

 

Hankaye, you seem to have some misconceptions about an open differential. Torque is split between the two axleshafts at all times, the only wheels you have rolling around like a tourist would be the front axle when you're not shifted into 4WD.

They are ALWAYS pulling equally. Four wheel drive = all four wheels getting power. See post 7 in THIS THREAD.

 

Read through the linked thread. Everything you need to know. Quite informative.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1269163&styleid=20

 

I have a detroit in the rear and lockright up front. If you want to go places it works really well. Have had them for 10 years or so with no problems..I do steep nasty terrain and can always rely on getting where I need to be. There are other options but I like what I have because it works 100% of the time..

 

Zedrive, Howdy;

Thanks for the link, just spent the afternoon going through
it ... all 7 pages. Thanks bud... just what I was lookin' for.
,

hank