1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Need Shifting Advise...

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  #16  
Old 04-10-2014, 03:13 PM
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Fully depress the pedal to the stop. If you don't have a feel for the point engagement, that's your first goal.
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 03:33 PM
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It's not that... darn pedal is so high off the ground LOL
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 03:37 PM
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These are the original lower ab exercises.
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FortyNiner
These are the original lower ab exercises.
LOL, I need that... I'm 6' and 290 lb.
 
  #20  
Old 04-10-2014, 04:05 PM
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You're downshifting when coming to a stop sign? Unless you're driving a big truck with a load you don't need to downshift when coming to a stop sign. At least I've never did it with my F-2 for the 20+ years I've been driving it. I just push in the clutch and apply the brakes. After I come to a complete stop I'll shift to second and prepare to start off from there.

The only time I'd downshift at a stop or slow down is when same moron pulls out in front of me or slams on their brakes while driving in front of me. For those times I am driving in the flow of traffic and need to keep moving after I have greatly reduced my speed. I might have to downshift from forth down to third or else the engine will lug, then it can a bit tricky but it can be done.

The only time I can really remember having to downshift, other than going around a corner, is when climbing a steep hill. By the time I get to the top I'll be in second and doing 20 mph.
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:23 PM
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It's just a habit to down shift... especially with a single master cylinder...
 
  #22  
Old 04-10-2014, 04:36 PM
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The only time you should be concern about downshifting is when your truck is heavily loaded and you need to be in a lower gear prior to a steep descend. Believe me, when you're trying to make that 3-2 shift, you need to get the revs up there pretty good.
Forget that single master cylinder phobia. Make certain all your brake components are in excellent condition, keep a close watch of fluid level and drive it. If you have not done so, rebuild or replace all brake components. Check the steel lines, each and every inch for rust. Rust likes to hide behind the clamps where the steel lines attach to the frame.
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:36 PM
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I've never experienced any excessive brake wear doing it the way I have always done it with any truck I've driven, even larger trucks I was carrying a load on. With the F-2 I think it would take a lot of time to try to down shift to come to a stop. I'd have to plan a stop at a longer distance, I just don't see how that would work efficiently.
 
  #24  
Old 04-10-2014, 07:59 PM
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Using the clutch gives you a small margin of error, if the revs are pretty close but not exactly right then it will still go into gear, without the clutch you have to be perfect every time. Push the clutch to the floor. Double clutching is an art to be sure, only way to get it right is practice and experience.
 
  #25  
Old 04-11-2014, 02:14 AM
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Not to throw a curve, but I think you should practice on not using the
clutch at all. Double clutching is really a measure of timimg. You could
count one, two, and shift. This is something to master, and its not a case
of just saying "an old truck". its the new ones too. Just try 120,000 lbs
on back and shifting a common 10 speed, we go through 5, click button
and go through 5 more speeds all with no clutch. Or a common 5 speed
with two speed axle (thats ten also). Still confused? try a 5 X 4 crash
box and split shift those. Now you really want to be confused? Try
a rear engine coach (bus) back in the day (now there all automactics),
but you cant hear or really feel the engine but we managed to master
it..>> On those you miss a shift and ya gotta stop & try again. I write
this just to say its a skill to learn. I bet you ask a big rig trucker to drive
your truck and watch him do it like butter with no clutching.
 
  #26  
Old 04-11-2014, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by big job
Not to throw a curve, but I think you should practice on not using the
clutch at all. Double clutching is really a measure of timimg. You could
count one, two, and shift. This is something to master, and its not a case
of just saying "an old truck". its the new ones too. Just try 120,000 lbs
on back and shifting a common 10 speed, we go through 5, click button
and go through 5 more speeds all with no clutch. Or a common 5 speed
with two speed axle (thats ten also). Still confused? try a 5 X 4 crash
box and split shift those. Now you really want to be confused? Try
a rear engine coach (bus) back in the day (now there all automactics),
but you cant hear or really feel the engine but we managed to master
it..>> On those you miss a shift and ya gotta stop & try again. I write
this just to say its a skill to learn. I bet you ask a big rig trucker to drive
your truck and watch him do it like butter with no clutching.
I'm sorry but I really have to take exception to that. I have driven everything from my first truck, a 51 Reo Gold Comet with a 5 and 2, to a mack tri-plex, later model 5 & 2's Fuller 9, 10, 13 and 15 speeds and this old GM 4903.

Comparing the spur gear tranny to any later model with synchronize, and air, vacuum or electric assist is truly an apples to oranges comparison. Can I shift Edith without the clutch.... yes, but I don't do it and don't recommend it.
 
  #27  
Old 04-13-2014, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WingingIt74
Sometimes I can double clutch and find the sweet spot, but most times I'm grinding....

Any advice on shifting these old trucks?
OK . . . All the foregoing advice is great and you need to follow it. You need to be in tune with your truck. When you hit those sweet shifts try to remember how fast you were going and what your engine sounded like (RPMs). But if your trans bearings are badly worn you may find that you can't duplicate those sweet shifts at the key speeds.
 
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