As always, I thank you all in advance for your input and expertise.
Initially my fuel gauge would read intermittently. Then not at all. Reads empty at all times. I changed out the fuel sender and ran wires from the sender to the gauge hoping I had an open some where. No luck. And as I'm writing this, since I didn't disconnect the original wire from the gauge, I might have a short causing an "Empty" reading?

My Temp gauge starts out fine but gradually (but fairly quickly) goes to almost full hot. The engine doesn't appear to be overheating. No signs of overheating that I can tell.

So my questions-
I always thought a gauge of this era either works or it doesn't. True?
How can I test the fuel level issue competently?
How can I either test the temp gauge or actual engine temp to know if the gauge is right? Or if I need a new temp sensor?
What is the usual failure mode of the temp sensor vs. the gauge? Ie, full hot? No reading?

Thanks again. You guys are the encyclopedia of Ford.

 

Is your truck 6v or 12v? If converted, do you have voltage drops for the gauges? What kind?

 

Sorry,
6V Pos ground

 

there is a test to determine if gage or sending unit is bad.. off hand i'd need to look in book.. i had same issue and had to replace the sending unit... if it turns out the gage is bad do a PM to me

 

1951/52 all trucks:

1C-9280-A (replaced 1C-9280) .. Dash Fuel Gauge / Obsolete

NOS PARTS SOURCE in Olathe KS has 1 = 913-220-5746.

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has 1 1C-9280 = 817-275-2381.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1C-10883-A (replaced 1C-10883) .. Dash Temperature Gauge / Obsolete

NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 1 = 972-937-2201.

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY has 3 1C-10883

 

The stock gauges can be tested with a pair of D or C Cell batteries. They should read full scale with 3 Volts applied and read half scale with 1.5 Volts applied. This applies to all gauges except the Batt/Amp meter.

 

Thank you.
I can test the gauges. Any idea how to see if the temp is reading correctly if the gauge is good?

 

The 239 has two different types of temperature sending gauges, and each motor uses one of each.

On the passenger side, there is a single terminal temperature sender. It has a bimetalic sensor and wire coil and sends a temperature reading (Kings Sealy format https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10755943) out the terminal on top. This wire then crosses over the engine block to the second type of temperature sender with two terminals. This sensor is simply a bi-metalic on off switch. When this sensor is not "overheating", the switch is turned "on" allowing the real temperature reading from the other sensor to pass from one terminal to the other onto the gauge. When this sensor overheats, the bi-metalic strip adjusts so that the switch is "off", sending no temperature value to the gauge. Just like when the ignition is off, the temperature gauge maxes out in this state.

To test the passenger side temperature sender, test for electrical contunuity between the grounded body and the terminal. Then place it in boiling water - within a few seconds, contunuity should break.

to test the drivers side sender, perform the same contunuity tests as before, but between the two terminals.

If you find your sensors are bad, you can get them from MACs as well as other Ford Truck specialist places for around $50 or so each.

In terms of calibrating your gauge, you can remove it from the dash and look on the back for a little hole with a gear train to adjust the reading. In reality, these senders and gauges are not meant to measure accurately to the degree, but to simply state the general picutres of cold, normal operating temp, a little toasty, and OVER HEATING!!!!!!!

For the really astute, you will see that this setup really only shows the temperature reading of the passenger side head of the block. Some feel better by placeing a passenger style sender on both heads, taking the single leads from each sender and running them to a selector switch under the dash that then runs a selected heads temperature reading to the gauge.

 

I am so sorry. After your extensive reply, I realized I failed to indicate what engine I have. Mine is a 215 OHV 6 cylinder.

Would the test procedure be the same?

 

Over here, you have almost answered your own question (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mp-sensor.html).

Since your engine uses the same temp sender as the passenger side one, the test proceedure is the same.

 

I bought one of these and installed in the heater port hole in the water pump. If the original temp gauge fails, then I always can check this one.

MOONEYES® WATER TEMP GAUGE, 1 1/2in DIA - Late Model Muscle