2000 Ford F250 Superduty 2WD
7.3 Powerstroke 214,000 (+-)

According to my diesel mechanic the PCM on my truck is going bad. I have been having problems for a while with the check engine light coming on sometimes in the beginning but now all the time. When the check engine light comes on I have a noticeable drop in engine power.
The worst problem is it will "chug" or try to stall when I am stopped but then kick back up again. Here lately it is happening almost every time I come to a stop. It has gotten so bad that I sometimes have to keep pumping the pedal to keep it from stalling.

This condition first started a couple of years ago and my mechanic told me I would need a new PCM. At the time I didn't have $1,200.00 to buck up for a replacement. So he took off the PCM connector found it had some corrosion and dirt building up that once he clean it up it seamed to be better for a while but then every once in a while it do the "chug" again. It has since gotten steadily worse the to point it is at now.

To replace the PCM involves taking out the inside fender well on the driver's side so you can get to the PCM and remove it. From what I am being told the PCM is plug and play with no additional after install programing required.
The only thing that has to be done is you have to have the VIN # and the mileage inputted or "flashed" onto the PCM.

My problem is I cannot find the PCM for my truck available anywhere.
Both the auto-parts stores in my town use the same supplier and they are saying they don't have any on in stock and have no idea when they might be getting one.
I called Ford for the OEM part and I was told that it is an obsolete part and no longer available thru Ford. When it was available it had a price tag of $895.00 where the parts store prices were only around $250 to $300. Guess that explains the $1200.00 estimate from my mechanic to change it out.
The standard part number I'm being told is: DPC-421.
Does anybody know how I could get this part and if I do get one am I going to be able to just "plug and play" or will I need a mechanic to set it up properly?
Thanks for any help you can give.

 

There is most likely nothing wrong with the PCM. Your mechanic is shooting in the dark from the sounds of it. What codes are being pulled?

The PCM isn't under the fender, that's the IDM. The PCM is located under the dash panel and you remove the connector under the master cylinder.

 

You just need to get it scanned as stated. Don't run out and buy any PCM as it might be just fine. Scan it will point in right direction.

 

The chances of it being a PCM are miniscule. The chances of it being an IDM (inside the driver-side fender) are a little higher. The chances of it being the Under Valve Cover Harness are huge. The UVCH is a Saturday with a wrench and $100 worth of parts (or 50 cents to modify it).

Before grabbing any wrenches, grab a multimeter. The 42-pin connector is over the driver-side valve cover. A 10mm socket will spin the connector off (ignition key in your pocket). Ohm out P+ with all the odd numbers, and D+ with all the even numbers. They should all be close to 3 ohms.

 

More often than not when a mechanic offers to replace something for me, i pull it off myself and find there is nothing wrong with it.

Your describing replacing your IDM. I'm not 100% on a 2000, but I'm pretty sure it's the same as an 03. Your PCM is next to your park brake. You can swap it out easily in about 10 minutes are less.

I'm on board with everyone else. I have my doubts about it being the PCM.

 

Like the others have said, what you described pulling is not the PCM, it's the IDM. Yet the DPC-421 is a PCM calibration. Something is getting mixed up here.

Did your mechanic happen to give you the diagnostic codes? That would tell us so much more.

Oh, and you don't have to have the VIN and milage flashed onto a PCM. Your mechanic told you wrong.

First things first, sounds like you need a new mechanic.

Second, you need more information.

 

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess the mechanic only got the generic "P1316 - IDM codes present" DTC and didn't have the ability to run a buzz test, which would probably reveal a bank 1 or bank 2 high side open code. Like the others have said. in all likelihood it's an issue with a valve cover gasket or harness.

 

Where are you located? If you are within 200 miles of me, i'll come scan your truck and give you a hand. I got nothing better to do today.

 

Appreciate the offer but I live in Oviedo, Florida. Just outside of Orlando.

 

2,000...200...what's the difference??

Very nice offer Paul.

 

Way to go Paul ! There are a couple of guys from the Orlando area on BEST...Franko72 and rishsd.

 

Great site. I've learned more about my truck in one post than all the phone calls or stops at auto parts places in a month.
I just want to start off by saying I believe my diesel mechanic is no slouch by any means. If anybody knows him it's "Paul's Auto and Truck Repair" located on SR 46 in Sanford, Florida. Although I don't know why he calls it that. He only works on truck diesels and large truck repairs. He has been around for some time, does a lot of big truck work. He's been doing my older brother's work for years and has always been happy with him. That's the reason I took my truck to him. I have been warned away from the local Ford dealerships around here by several diesel owners that have had to bring their truck back to them several times for the same thing.
It was almost two years ago when he first did the maintenance work on the connector and I know he did have to pull the inside fender well off to do the work so it must be the IDM I'm talking about.
This is only the second diesel I have ever owned. The other was a 97' Ford 7.3 power stroke. I only had it for a short time as I had to trade it in when we had the baby.
I bought this 2000 back in 2001 with only 27,000 miles so I have had this truck for some time and I do all my own oil changes, battery maintenance, fuel filter changes, thermostats, atlernators, ect.. Just the basics.
I am in no way "diesel savyy" so anything major I don't usually mess with. As soon as it starts getting into wiring harness, computers, engine block stuff I get nervous and tend to step back. This truck is how I support my family so I can't afford to screw anything up on it.

(Update)
I did some checking thru my truck "file" that has all my maintenance and repair bills I it was the IDM that he had to clean the connector on back in 2012. The reason I thought it was the PCM was because I knew the box was behind the fender well and when I went on youtube to look for videos about replacing it, it was entitled replacing PCM module and it was were the IDM is located.
I also had the IPC regulator valve replaced a month before that but it didn't help. After cleaning the IDM connector it did seem to help for a while.

I see a lot written about this "Under The Valve Cover Harness" and the .50 cent mod. What exactly is this all about?

 

Your absolutely right. I had the wrong part. I checked my repair log for the truck and it was the IDM that we worked on.
Could this need replacing?
If so what would it take?

 

I keep seeing this UVCH and 50 cent mod but have no idea what anyone is talking about but I am very curious about it.

Now I really have no idea what you are talking about. I tend to give a wide berth when it comes to dealing with electrical systems on vehicles. I have never ohmed anything on a vehicle, never had a reason before.
You might as well be talking particle physics.
I'm not a dummy by any means. I build million dollar buildings for a living. Dealing with electrical, mechanical, plumbing, structural, ect.. but I have never had the knack when it come to working on vehicles.

Sorry, didn't mean to repost the picture twice but couldn't see the link to edit it out.

 

What would be involved with changing out the IDM. Other than removing the fender well and then the unit. Think I got that part down.
I'm not even sure what an IDM is. What's involved with buying one?
How expensive are they usually.
Not ignoring all the other great replies to the thread just responding to each post individually getting all the information I can.
Thanks.