If I can reline my brake band, you can.
By far the hardest part was counter sinking the rivets. Lining them the holes up was the main challenge.

Jules, we would love to see pictures of yours. The more we have here the easier it is for the next person.

 

That would be great Jules. I thought the same thing, stopped...no pressure until you drive off with it set. I would hope that a lever over the floor would apply enough hand brake that would kill it with a clutch. I installed a dually axel under mine but left the handbrake on the floor just cause it was already there. Pics of your repair would be awesome. What kind of epoxy did you use?

 

I bought the only NOS that Green had in stock last Summer. Now I'm re-lining the one that I took off. I relined my rear shoes last Fall. Easy-peasy.

 

Well I have it removed and cleaned up except for removing the rivets and whats left of the brake pad. Drum and band look ok to reuse. Its a hand brake, not a wheel brake, so I would think any sheer pressure would be minimum unless it gets left applied or rolls away, lol.

 

I would suggest lining it up and epoxying the band to the friction material first then all your holes will be lined up and ready.

I used some 5 minute epoxy, the stuff you buy at lowes in large tubes.

The pictures are in my album, I am not sure how to load them here from there.

 

Because it is located before the axle/reduction it has quite a lot of leverage. Seems quite noticeable and impossible to start off when engaged. I am sure you could over power it but I think most normal people would notice something is really wrong.

 

In a case where you develop a problem with the single-reservoir main braking system, you'll want all of the tenacious grip you can muster. It's not just a wheel chock. In an emergency, it is quite possibly the ONLY brake left.
One fear I'd have regarding most epoxies would be an inevitable release due to both flexure and temperature cycling. Rivets won't let go. Not for a very, very long time.

 

I would still say the rivets are only there to hold it in place there is no way those little rivets could actually take the braking load.

The friction of the brake lining against the band is doing all the work.

If you were to say put a thin layer of teflon between the brake lining and the band, then try to use only rivet all those little rivets would shear right off. That may only be my opinion but I think it makes sense.

Also I think if you compared the load capacity of the 20 or so 1/8" rivets to the 48 square inches of epoxy, I think you would find the epoxy will win.

A good example would be many modern brake shoes and brake pads for drum and disk they are merely glued on!

 

You have to remember that for years, brake pads and shoes were riveted on.


The newer epoxied brake pads don't rely entirely on glue. They have tiny barbs or the back plate is drilled and the friction fills the holes.



I've changed many brake pads were rust has separated the friction material from the glue on the drilled backing plate pads. Once the pad was removed from the caliper the friction fell off.

Never underestimate the force to shear those little rivets. Lets say they are 10k psi each, times 20 equals 200K psi to remove that brake band.

 

The model T lining is what I was talking about . You could glue the lining and then drill, from the out side and use a 90 degree drill to counter sink the holes from the inside , . You would have to get the right punch to flare out the rivets . Use a piece of pipe with a 1/4 inch bolt welded to it put it in a vice line up the head of the rivet and punch the other end . Not a hard fix .

 

Well I am not saying rivets have no strength. Most of the force is still going to be handled by friction. I mean there are no rivets that engage the drum when the brake is on as it is unnecessary. A 1/8 steel rivet wild have a shear strength of around 280 lbs, with 20 rivets that is around 5500 pounds. The original rivets I pulled from mine were certainly only brass so even weaker.

Epoxy on the other hand can have a shear strength of anywhere up to 10,000psi pounds per square inch. At 48 square inches you are talking much higher strength with the glue.

I glued and riveted mine because I am paranoid about everything and always go big or go home.

I am sure you could also find pictures of brake shoes and pads with no rivets or picking features too.

So never underestimate the strength of a little glue!

 

Sorry I guess I was off on amount, Dad said tonight it was around 80 dollars.It was riveted though and the band from JD is 450 and a Jobber 300+, so still he was way ahead.

 

I have the band cleaned up and ready for new lining. I think Numbers Dummy is looking o see if anyone has a replacement. If I proceed with lining it myself, I guess I have to figure out the lining Im going to use and the best option for rivets.

 

I haven't done anything yet, I'm waiting for you.

Post 1: You asked about ebrake lining and "components" which I assumed meant that you wanted other parts unrelated to the lining.

Post 10: I asked you to look at the pic and list the numbers of the parts you wanted.

 

If using glue only, I would pick my adhesive very, very carefully. I agree that the lining-to-band friction (stiction?) does the vast majority of the work. However, due to poor surface prep, adhesive choice, or thermal failure due to smoking the band for a few miles, once the glue let go there may be a possibility of the band becoming displaced (particularly while not engaged) if no rivets were there to hold it.