6.0 Hard start hot NOT HPOP
#31
I apologize,,,,act up meant won't start. The $10k scanner didn't show anything my SCT Livewire and ScangaugeII wouldn't. Just that when it won't start there is no sync or fuel pulse. Have RPM and great HPOP pressure. Anywhere from the 3rd to 7th or 8th crank attempt she will fire right up and instantly show sync and fuel pulse.
Your FUEL_PW showing a 0 reading is because the injectors are not being commanded to fire, which is directly caused by your CKP/CMP sync issue.
What engine RPM reading are you getting with the engine cranking? If you want to go further into it, disconnect the middle PCM connector and plug it back in again.
Make sure it is secured to the PCM properly
If you want to verify those circuits, you can connect a DVOM to both the CKP and CMP circuits of the middle PCM connector.
Set your DVOM to Hz. On the CKP circuit, you should be seeing 150 to 200 Hz when the engine is cranked over (directly proportional to 150 to 200 RPMs).
On the CMP circuit you should get a reading of 1.1 to 1.9 Hz when the engine is cranked over. Hopefully you won't have to go this far before you resolve your issue.
__________________
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The spec is between 300 to 400O for the CKP sensor, and 800 to 1100O for the CMP sensor. If you want to check readings, set your DVOM to read Hz.
The CKP reading you should be getting from the CKP sensor, is between 150 to 200Hz, directly proportional to engine cranking RPM when the engine is cranked over.
The CMP reading should be between 1.1 to 1.9Hz when the engine is cranked over.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
connector C1381t
Camshaft
Pin# 31 Camshaft +
Pin# 43 Camshaft -
Crankshaft
Pin# 30 Crankshaft +
Pin# 41 Crankshaft -
#32
ICP SIGNAL? 03 6.0
Originally had hard start, rough idle, no sync. Replaced crankshaft position sensor, still hard start but got sync, running rough. Decided to go in for the HPOP & replace ICP & IPR while it's easily accessible. Friday night/Saturday morning spent tearing apart top end, fuel/oil filter housing, turbo, intake manifold, wiring harness', etc...
Removed cover from top of HPOP reservoir to find C-clip had let go, end cap was not attached and O-ring hanging out end of pump. I figured this to be a sure sign that it was a faulty HPOP.
Spent the rest of Saturday and part of Sunday morning putting in new HPOP, ICP, & IPR. New intake gaskets & o-rings everywhere possible. Buttoned it all up, read as much info on priming HPOP as I could find and decided it was time to give it a shot.
Cranking and watching ICP climb slowly to 306 after probably ten, 20 second cranking sessions(200amp battery charger connected). Allowing 5-10 minutes for starter cool down between each session. IPR @ 77% FICM power 48volts, 1 Sync.(I have Scan GaugeII, have put in most of the x-gauges & the speed is set to fast)
Believing that, once the hpop is primed, the icp would climb above 500 and allow injectors to function is what I was shooting for.
Decided to attempt a crank session with ICP unplugged(I heard default goes to 750?) I unplugged icp and cranked it and got: ICP 1700, IPR 44%, FICM48V & 1 Sync but still no start.
Question: if ICP pigtail is unplugged, where does ScanGauge come up with the 1700 psi? Is this an actual reading from the ECM?
Am I correct to believe the IPR operating range to be 15-85%? with 15% being wide open and 85% being closed? As I understand it, the HPOP sends oil to ICP(sensor) which reports to ECM which then commands IPR to regulate oil pressure in the system.
Man I wish I had this thirst for knowledge at a younger age But glad I found a site that's not afraid to help and share the knowledge. Thanks for any advice.
Removed cover from top of HPOP reservoir to find C-clip had let go, end cap was not attached and O-ring hanging out end of pump. I figured this to be a sure sign that it was a faulty HPOP.
Spent the rest of Saturday and part of Sunday morning putting in new HPOP, ICP, & IPR. New intake gaskets & o-rings everywhere possible. Buttoned it all up, read as much info on priming HPOP as I could find and decided it was time to give it a shot.
Cranking and watching ICP climb slowly to 306 after probably ten, 20 second cranking sessions(200amp battery charger connected). Allowing 5-10 minutes for starter cool down between each session. IPR @ 77% FICM power 48volts, 1 Sync.(I have Scan GaugeII, have put in most of the x-gauges & the speed is set to fast)
Believing that, once the hpop is primed, the icp would climb above 500 and allow injectors to function is what I was shooting for.
Decided to attempt a crank session with ICP unplugged(I heard default goes to 750?) I unplugged icp and cranked it and got: ICP 1700, IPR 44%, FICM48V & 1 Sync but still no start.
Question: if ICP pigtail is unplugged, where does ScanGauge come up with the 1700 psi? Is this an actual reading from the ECM?
Am I correct to believe the IPR operating range to be 15-85%? with 15% being wide open and 85% being closed? As I understand it, the HPOP sends oil to ICP(sensor) which reports to ECM which then commands IPR to regulate oil pressure in the system.
Man I wish I had this thirst for knowledge at a younger age But glad I found a site that's not afraid to help and share the knowledge. Thanks for any advice.
#33
Hey JOBPSD1963, don't mean to be a jerk, but you hijacked this thread. People are confusing your problems and what your readings with mine. You simply have an HPOP leak or a bad HPOP and there are a ton of threads and info. on diagnosing and fixing that problem. You really need to start your own thread. Thanks man. If you start your own thread, private message me and I will look for it and help all I can.
#34
#35
#36
Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Specific : Linear Logic : Home of the ScanGauge Here ya go, click the link and scroll down to 6.0
#38
UPDATED SYNC CODES FOR SGII
FICM SYNC= 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3601 000100010000 FICM Sync (0=No, 1=Yes)
CMP/CKP SYNC= 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3701 000100010000 Camshaft & Crankshaft in sync (1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync)
V-REF
TXD=07E0221155
RXF=046245110655
RXD=3010
MTH=006433330000
Barometric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E0221442
RXF: 046285140642
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: BAR
Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: EBP
KO=103 (15) LI=110 (16) HI=110 (16) OR=55 - 607 (8 -88) kPA (PSI)
BOOST (BST)
TXD= 07E0221440
RXF= 046285140640
RXD= 3010
MTH= 01220320****
NAME=Boost (PSI).
In order to get the proper boost value enter the MAP XGauge. Get a reading
from it with the key in the on position but the engine off. Based on the reading change
the last 4 digits of the MTH value that corresponds to your reading in the table to the
right.
12.6 - - FF82
12.5 - - FF83
12.4 - - FF84
12.3 - - FF85
12.2 - - FF86
12.1 - - FF87
12.0 - - FF88
11.9 - - FF89
11.8 - - FF8A
14.0 -- FF74
14.1 -- FF73
14.2 -- FF72
14.3 -- FF71
14.4 -- FF70
14.5 -- FF6F
14.6 -- FF6E
14.7 -- FF6D
14.8 -- FF6C
14.9 -- FF6B
15.0 -- FF6A
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
Inj. Control Press. (ICP / HPOP)
TXD: 07E0221446
RXF: 046205140646
RXD: 3010
MTH: 003900640000
NAM: ICP
KO=0 LI=625.5 HI=1400-1450 OR=0-4045
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICV
KO=0.2 LI=1.0 HI=1.8 OR=.15-4.7 Volts
IPR Duty Cycle
TXD: 07E0221434
RXF: 046285140634
RXD: 3008
MTH: 0DCA03E8000A
NAM: IPR %
KO=14.84 LI=24 HI=40.60 OR=0-50 %
MAP and Volts should already be in the gauge.
MAP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220900
RXF: 046205090600
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000104000000
NAM: MPV
Note: This one seems a bit odd, but try it out and let me know if you need finer resolution. This one will go by whole numbers, but the range is something like +/- 32 Volts which seems weird for a sensor – they’re usually 0-5 volts
EP Volts (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AE
RXF: 0462451606AE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100800000
NAM: EPV
Note: This one may have weird readings if the values get to high, let me know.
Glow Plug Coil Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221450
RXF: 046205140650
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
Glow Plug Light On
TXD: 07E0221667
RXF: 046225160667
RXD: 3201
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: GPL
Glow Plug Lamp On Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221451
RXF: 046205140651
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
MAF Voltage (volts)
TXD: 07E0221177
RXF: 046245110677
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100250000
NAM: MFV
FICM SYNC= 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3601 000100010000 FICM Sync (0=No, 1=Yes)
CMP/CKP SYNC= 07E02209CD 0462050906CD 3701 000100010000 Camshaft & Crankshaft in sync (1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync)
V-REF
TXD=07E0221155
RXF=046245110655
RXD=3010
MTH=006433330000
Barometric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E0221442
RXF: 046285140642
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: BAR
Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: EBP
KO=103 (15) LI=110 (16) HI=110 (16) OR=55 - 607 (8 -88) kPA (PSI)
BOOST (BST)
TXD= 07E0221440
RXF= 046285140640
RXD= 3010
MTH= 01220320****
NAME=Boost (PSI).
In order to get the proper boost value enter the MAP XGauge. Get a reading
from it with the key in the on position but the engine off. Based on the reading change
the last 4 digits of the MTH value that corresponds to your reading in the table to the
right.
12.6 - - FF82
12.5 - - FF83
12.4 - - FF84
12.3 - - FF85
12.2 - - FF86
12.1 - - FF87
12.0 - - FF88
11.9 - - FF89
11.8 - - FF8A
14.0 -- FF74
14.1 -- FF73
14.2 -- FF72
14.3 -- FF71
14.4 -- FF70
14.5 -- FF6F
14.6 -- FF6E
14.7 -- FF6D
14.8 -- FF6C
14.9 -- FF6B
15.0 -- FF6A
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
Inj. Control Press. (ICP / HPOP)
TXD: 07E0221446
RXF: 046205140646
RXD: 3010
MTH: 003900640000
NAM: ICP
KO=0 LI=625.5 HI=1400-1450 OR=0-4045
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICV
KO=0.2 LI=1.0 HI=1.8 OR=.15-4.7 Volts
IPR Duty Cycle
TXD: 07E0221434
RXF: 046285140634
RXD: 3008
MTH: 0DCA03E8000A
NAM: IPR %
KO=14.84 LI=24 HI=40.60 OR=0-50 %
MAP and Volts should already be in the gauge.
MAP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E0220900
RXF: 046205090600
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000104000000
NAM: MPV
Note: This one seems a bit odd, but try it out and let me know if you need finer resolution. This one will go by whole numbers, but the range is something like +/- 32 Volts which seems weird for a sensor – they’re usually 0-5 volts
EP Volts (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AE
RXF: 0462451606AE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100800000
NAM: EPV
Note: This one may have weird readings if the values get to high, let me know.
Glow Plug Coil Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221450
RXF: 046205140650
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
Glow Plug Light On
TXD: 07E0221667
RXF: 046225160667
RXD: 3201
MTH: 000100010000
NAM: GPL
Glow Plug Lamp On Time (Seconds)
TXD: 07E0221451
RXF: 046205140651
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100080000
NAM: GPT
MAF Voltage (volts)
TXD: 07E0221177
RXF: 046245110677
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000100250000
NAM: MFV
#39
Okay....couldn't wait to get home and get all the info. needed. Of course it wasn't that hot out today and it wouldn't act up as bad as it sometimes does. Would usually start on the 3rd or 4th attempt when acting up and not starting. Other times it starts right up and runs excellent. When it's real bad it won't restart until it sits awhile and cools down. Once time it sat over 4 hours before it would restart, trying at 1,2 and 3 hours to get it to fire. Scan gauge set to FAST update. All values from ScangaugeII except Injector pulse width. Couldn't find the code to that, so pulse width reading was from my SCT Livewire.
PID IDLE 2500rpm KOEO Cranking/No start
EOT 213 216 199
ICP 584 1322 800 Rises very fast from 0-about800
FMP 48 48 48
SYC 1 1 0 Turns to 1 Right when it fires
CMP (SYNC) 1 1 Fluctuates see notes
IPR 19.3 36 26
FLP 13.5 13.5 10.5
CVI Vref 5 5 5
ICV 0.77 1.7 .38 increasing to .86
RPM 692 2490 155
MFD 8.87 12.1 ?
VFD 11 15.3 ?
Injector Pulse Width 1.01 0.62 0 Read on SCT not Sgii goes to around 1.0
as soon as she fires
I think that's everything needed to diagnose I hope??!!! The HPOP/ICP/ICR and FICM numbers all look good I'm thinking. The CMP sync is what seemed all over the place. I was making sure I waited for Scangauge to update. When it wouldn't start it would begin at 0 and after a few seconds of cranking go to 1. Other times it would remain at 0. Other times it seemed like it would go from 0 to 1 and back to 0. And then a few times when it would start and run, SYC would be at 1 and CMP would remain at 0 for a few seconds. And sometimes it would stay at 0, then the second you would stop cranking it would go to 1. The CMP seemed to be all over the place. One thing for sure, when it was cranking and not starting, SYC and fuel pulse width remained at 0 but went to normal right when it fired. And one more weird thing....when it won't start, long cranks don't help at all. If If I crank it for about three seconds, stop and wait 10 seconds, then crank again...on the 3rd cycle she will usually fire......I don't know if it's wiring or the PCM. I have also read about intermitted problems cause by the Cam sensor ground wiring in the harness, it won't throw codes as they erase the second it fires. I'm at a loss.......THANKS!! And, just a reminder, Cam and Cranks sensors have been replaced by Motorcraft ones and the block was recently overhauled and painted so there wasn't any scale or crud, and it has never throw a trouble code.
PID IDLE 2500rpm KOEO Cranking/No start
EOT 213 216 199
ICP 584 1322 800 Rises very fast from 0-about800
FMP 48 48 48
SYC 1 1 0 Turns to 1 Right when it fires
CMP (SYNC) 1 1 Fluctuates see notes
IPR 19.3 36 26
FLP 13.5 13.5 10.5
CVI Vref 5 5 5
ICV 0.77 1.7 .38 increasing to .86
RPM 692 2490 155
MFD 8.87 12.1 ?
VFD 11 15.3 ?
Injector Pulse Width 1.01 0.62 0 Read on SCT not Sgii goes to around 1.0
as soon as she fires
I think that's everything needed to diagnose I hope??!!! The HPOP/ICP/ICR and FICM numbers all look good I'm thinking. The CMP sync is what seemed all over the place. I was making sure I waited for Scangauge to update. When it wouldn't start it would begin at 0 and after a few seconds of cranking go to 1. Other times it would remain at 0. Other times it seemed like it would go from 0 to 1 and back to 0. And then a few times when it would start and run, SYC would be at 1 and CMP would remain at 0 for a few seconds. And sometimes it would stay at 0, then the second you would stop cranking it would go to 1. The CMP seemed to be all over the place. One thing for sure, when it was cranking and not starting, SYC and fuel pulse width remained at 0 but went to normal right when it fired. And one more weird thing....when it won't start, long cranks don't help at all. If If I crank it for about three seconds, stop and wait 10 seconds, then crank again...on the 3rd cycle she will usually fire......I don't know if it's wiring or the PCM. I have also read about intermitted problems cause by the Cam sensor ground wiring in the harness, it won't throw codes as they erase the second it fires. I'm at a loss.......THANKS!! And, just a reminder, Cam and Cranks sensors have been replaced by Motorcraft ones and the block was recently overhauled and painted so there wasn't any scale or crud, and it has never throw a trouble code.
#40
Okay....couldn't wait to get home and get all the info. needed. Of course it wasn't that hot out today and it wouldn't act up as bad as it sometimes does. Would usually start on the 3rd or 4th attempt when acting up and not starting. Other times it starts right up and runs excellent. When it's real bad it won't restart until it sits awhile and cools down. Once time it sat over 4 hours before it would restart, trying at 1,2 and 3 hours to get it to fire. Scan gauge set to FAST update. All values from ScangaugeII except Injector pulse width. Couldn't find the code to that, so pulse width reading was from my SCT Livewire.
PID IDLE 2500rpm KOEO Cranking/No start
EOT 213 216 199
ICP 584 1322 800 Rises very fast from 0-about800
FMP 48 48 48
SYC 1 1 0 Turns to 1 Right when it fires
CMP (SYNC) 1 1 Fluctuates see notes
IPR 19.3 36 26
FLP 13.5 13.5 10.5
CVI Vref 5 5 5
ICV 0.77 1.7 .38 increasing to .86
RPM 692 2490 155
MFD 8.87 12.1 ?
VFD 11 15.3 ?
Injector Pulse Width 1.01 0.62 0 Read on SCT not Sgii goes to around 1.0
as soon as she fires
I think that's everything needed to diagnose I hope??!!! The HPOP/ICP/ICR and FICM numbers all look good I'm thinking. The CMP sync is what seemed all over the place. I was making sure I waited for Scangauge to update. When it wouldn't start it would begin at 0 and after a few seconds of cranking go to 1. Other times it would remain at 0. Other times it seemed like it would go from 0 to 1 and back to 0. And then a few times when it would start and run, SYC would be at 1 and CMP would remain at 0 for a few seconds. And sometimes it would stay at 0, then the second you would stop cranking it would go to 1. The CMP seemed to be all over the place. One thing for sure, when it was cranking and not starting, SYC and fuel pulse width remained at 0 but went to normal right when it fired. And one more weird thing....when it won't start, long cranks don't help at all. If If I crank it for about three seconds, stop and wait 10 seconds, then crank again...on the 3rd cycle she will usually fire......I don't know if it's wiring or the PCM. I have also read about intermitted problems cause by the Cam sensor ground wiring in the harness, it won't throw codes as they erase the second it fires. I'm at a loss.......THANKS!! And, just a reminder, Cam and Cranks sensors have been replaced by Motorcraft ones and the block was recently overhauled and painted so there wasn't any scale or crud, and it has never throw a trouble code.
PID IDLE 2500rpm KOEO Cranking/No start
EOT 213 216 199
ICP 584 1322 800 Rises very fast from 0-about800
FMP 48 48 48
SYC 1 1 0 Turns to 1 Right when it fires
CMP (SYNC) 1 1 Fluctuates see notes
IPR 19.3 36 26
FLP 13.5 13.5 10.5
CVI Vref 5 5 5
ICV 0.77 1.7 .38 increasing to .86
RPM 692 2490 155
MFD 8.87 12.1 ?
VFD 11 15.3 ?
Injector Pulse Width 1.01 0.62 0 Read on SCT not Sgii goes to around 1.0
as soon as she fires
I think that's everything needed to diagnose I hope??!!! The HPOP/ICP/ICR and FICM numbers all look good I'm thinking. The CMP sync is what seemed all over the place. I was making sure I waited for Scangauge to update. When it wouldn't start it would begin at 0 and after a few seconds of cranking go to 1. Other times it would remain at 0. Other times it seemed like it would go from 0 to 1 and back to 0. And then a few times when it would start and run, SYC would be at 1 and CMP would remain at 0 for a few seconds. And sometimes it would stay at 0, then the second you would stop cranking it would go to 1. The CMP seemed to be all over the place. One thing for sure, when it was cranking and not starting, SYC and fuel pulse width remained at 0 but went to normal right when it fired. And one more weird thing....when it won't start, long cranks don't help at all. If If I crank it for about three seconds, stop and wait 10 seconds, then crank again...on the 3rd cycle she will usually fire......I don't know if it's wiring or the PCM. I have also read about intermitted problems cause by the Cam sensor ground wiring in the harness, it won't throw codes as they erase the second it fires. I'm at a loss.......THANKS!! And, just a reminder, Cam and Cranks sensors have been replaced by Motorcraft ones and the block was recently overhauled and painted so there wasn't any scale or crud, and it has never throw a trouble code.
#41
The .38 ICPV is cranking. With KOEO and no cranking it's like .14. For giggles, I did try unplugging the ICP sensor when it was acting up and it made no difference. It did set a check engine light because it eventually started while in was unplugged. Unplugged, I believed it defaults to like 25% IPR and stays fixed. The IPR quickly rises to like 26% and holds there as the ICP reading is like 800 psi, well over the 500 psi needed to fire at idle. Thanks though.
#42
The .38 ICPV is cranking. With KOEO and no cranking it's like .14. For giggles, I did try unplugging the ICP sensor when it was acting up and it made no difference. It did set a check engine light because it eventually started while in was unplugged. Unplugged, I believed it defaults to like 25% IPR and stays fixed. The IPR quickly rises to like 26% and holds there as the ICP reading is like 800 psi, well over the 500 psi needed to fire at idle. Thanks though.
#44
Well it's a lot hotter out today and she's good and pissed. Stopped in house for lunch and now it's completely dead in driveway. All values look the same as before with one minor exception.....first few 10 second cranks the CMP would go to 1 almost immediately and SYNC would stay at 0. Cranked it a total of about 8 times, for about 10 seconds each with 30 second cool down in-between cranks. Starting about the 4th attempt, the CMP would start going form 0 to 1 than back to 0. Then it would stay at 0 for about 5 seconds then switch to 1. Please tell me I'm not going to have to take this to the dealer. I am an engineer and used to work for an body up fitter that did over 1.5 million of military and medical vehicles per year on Ford chassis. It's not like I don't know how to turn a wrench or am not very familiar with this things....but geez...I am outta patience.