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How far can one mill a head before you must mill the intake manifold? I have one combustion chamber with some pitting on the quench side from what might have been piston pieces... The pits are not REAL deep, but deep enough to cause me some concern...
Mark
I think the standard is around 20 to 30 thousandths before you need to mill the intake. I think the other option is to mill the head on the intake flange so it is a one time deal. Otherwise you have to have your next intake milled too. Hopefully we will get another definitive response, which poses another question.. The early and late style block deck heights vary by about 15 to twenty thousandths. Doesn't that pose the same problem ? Especially when you zero deck the block.
DOVE heads are pretty common. I'd consider picking up another head before getting into milling them and maybe the manifold. I'd think the pitting is from the casting process or something else as a cast or forged aluminum piston would have a tough time pitting cast iron.
The whole head is good but the one quench chamber... Since it is only the quench chamber, I don't imagine too much trouble with combustion...
D0VE C heads aren't that common around here for a good price, trust me! (especially on my budget! LOL)
Mark
Amount of stock to remove to assure correct mating of ports;
----------------------------------------------Remove from Intake
Engine-----Removed from head/block----------Sides-------Bottom
429-460----------.010------------------------.010--------.014
------------------.020------------------------.020--------.028
------------------.030------------------------.030--------.042
------------------.040------------------------.040--------.057
Hey, that is wonderful, georgedavila! Thanks for that info!
It would make sense to reomove the same amount from intake sides to accomodate the lowered head position, as well as drop the intake bottom to make a good seat on the intake gasket because of the reduction in width of the head spacing as it gets closer to the deck...
I will have to print this out for good info! Now, what new info I need is what new intake will I machine to match the D0VE's...
Mark
The second pic shows the pitting on just the one chamber, while the last pic shows a closeup (pic is reversed!)... It is definately not a casting problem, but I have no idea what caused this!
Mark
I took .015 off my DOVE-C heads and .035 off the block and had no problem with putting it together. Just built a killer 460 for my boat - 500hp and 600lbs tq.
I ran a 460 for a year with some 1/8" deep dents in a forged piston (dropped a nut down the intake and didn't realize it, man was that a noise on start-up) and couldn't tell the difference (after I pulled the head & removed the nut). I honestly don't think those indentations in your head are going to make any difference.
look - it will probably be ok. But do you really want to have rough edges or surfaces? Its not going to caost you more than $50 to have those cleaned up. As far as the quench goes - For proper quench you want the quench area of the head to be as smooth as possible. This will eliminate any turbulance that those pits are going to make. During the 'quench' air and gas is squeezed into such a small area which will help prevent detonation and maximize your compression.
Well, the cost of machining the head down a few thou isn't bad, but having to do the same to a brand new intake kinda bothers me, and I don't know if there is an allowable amount that can be taken from the heads before the intake must be matched the same...
Can anyone shed some light, or should I just wait until I can afford to mill the intake as well? I am going to use an aftermarket intake that fits a Cobra Jet head, and just shoulder-in the intake ports of the head to match the big intake ports.
Mark
you can easily take up to 30 off the heads with no problems. It will take alot less to just clean them up. I wouldnt worry about that at all. FelPro gaskets are thick as hell.
I took 15 off the heads and 35 off the block and mine fit perfect.