To adjust toe in to bring the front of the tires closer (more toe in), which way should the tie rod be turned? Is it "forward" or "backward"? Does anyone remember?

 

Well, you have to open up the gap in the rear to move the front of the wheels in. So I think the passenger side is right hand thread and the drivers side is left hand thread.

If that's correct, turn the tie rod top to the front to increase toe in.

Now, somebody who knows what they're talking about can chime in.

 

I made the chart below because I got tired of trying to remember!

 

So, I was right, but I was wrong.

I had the turn direction wrong, but my description was right?

 

I get a headache every time I try to figure it out, Joe, hence the chart! But yes, your description was correct.

 

OK guys thank you. Turn rod forward for less toe, backwards for more toe.
That makes the passenger side right hand thread, and driver is left hand thread. the picture is a good idea!

 

Yes, just loosen both lock nuts about a turn away from the tie rod end and turn the tie rod, you do not have to disconnect anything. If when you turn the tie rod the nuts move away from the ends of the tie rod you are increasing toe in, if they move closer or tighten, you are decreasing toe in.

 

I'ts a good idea to keep track of the amount of turns you make in case you want to put it back where it was.

 

Last month I replaced king pins, tie rod ends, spring bushings and added 2 degrees of shim under the axle. I wanted to check the toe in after having put a couple of hundred miles on it. I couldn't remember which way to turn the tube- thanks! Anyway, the toe in is at 3/16", so I left it alone.

Now if I could just remember which way to turn the brake adjuster stars! That's another one I have to re-learn every time I adjust the brakes. Not a problem when the wheel is off the ground and one can verify the drag. A little harder when making the side of the road fine adjustments....

 

What year/model is your truck?

I have a similar drawing for the rears of 48-52's.... for similar reasons. I can't remember but I think fronts are the same.

 

All the ones I've ever worked on you pushed down on the tool to tighten like in Ross's drawing.

 

Why would you need to do side of the road adjustments? If adjusted properly with the wheel off the ground they shouldn't need adjusting for about a year (when the shoes wear ~ 1/2 way). Small adjustments shouldn't make a difference unless something is hanging up.

 

OK it's true- I too usually get good results with being careful the first time through. I did write the gist of your graphic down somewhere a long time ago, but after the front end work described above, I wanted to adjust the brakes too and it took me a while to remember the procedure. Of course I couldn't find the notes. I generally test the adjustment by making a hard stop from around 40 mph to check for pulling. I've been known to take the adjustment spoon with me on these test drives in case I wanted to adjust in the field.

 

Hydraulic brakes would have to be really badly out of adjustment to pull, that's the advantage of hydraulics. To adjust, raise the wheel so it can rotate freely. While rotating the wheel by hand tighten the adjuster until the wheel just locks up and can't be turned by hand. Back the adjuster off a couple of clicks just until the wheel can be turned with a light resistance (should hear a light dragging sound and feel slight resistance, wheel should not rotate freely). Press the brake pedal once or twice and recheck adjustment. Adjust the opposite side the same way. Be careful the first time you drive it after adjusting as most of the pedal free play should be gone. Shouldn't need adjusting again until the pedal free play increases noticeably.