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Carling switch pin breakdown

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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #16  
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looks clean, buffalo . But why the manual 650?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 09:56 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
looks clean, buffalo . But why the manual 650?
I went back and forth between the two dash options for @ 2 months - finally decided on the manual dash version for the Excursion. I didn't need a whole lot of switches and only needed the fuel pressure & oil temp gauges since I have the others on the A pillar. I don't tow much with the Excursion - so not as much to monitor.

I'm leaning towards the auto F-650 dash for the pick up since it looks like I can incorporate the firestone airbag gauge & compressor switch into this very nicely. I use this vehicle mostly for towing so I tend to pay more attention to the HPOP, EGT, & tranny temps gauges more so than when not towing......

Savy?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 10:12 PM
  #18  
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night pic......

 
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 10:43 PM
  #19  
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Looks great, I just was hopping that I wasn't confusing you. Have fun with I know I do.
 
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Old May 16, 2014 | 08:15 PM
  #20  
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Hey Guys Im doing the 650 dash install with 9 switches. but my question is where is everyone getting there 12v source from? I know i can pull from the batt for my 12v into switches but id like the ACC to control the 12V source so my lights are off when key is off even if the switch is left on. is there a ACC 12v i can use for all the switches? or will i need to make one out of a batt isolation switch.. Thanks and anything will help
 
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Old May 16, 2014 | 09:05 PM
  #21  
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Depending on if you're running relays from the switch or directly running the item from the switch, there are a few places to take power from.
If you search, some people have added wires to the underhood fuse box, or you can tap into the heater circuit (30amp) or if you are only running relays, most any 15a fuse tap would work. There are a few factory keyed locations, but someone else will need to chime in.
 
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Old May 16, 2014 | 10:19 PM
  #22  
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Found my answer... Thanks

check this out... im using relays like this guy

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14354057





 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 08:32 PM
  #23  
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my current install

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...72734996_n.jpg




 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 11:19 PM
  #24  
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good work!!
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 11:33 PM
  #25  
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It never ends.am I right
 
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 10:46 AM
  #26  
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Nicely done !!! 🍻🍻🍻😎😎😎
 
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 01:47 PM
  #27  
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Looks like my post above....
----------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by Tugly
Whoa! Putting a pause on things here:

The switch in the picture has 4 terminals. All the diagrams show 5 terminals or more.
Just so it doesn't get passed over, the link in post #3 takes a person to a very old thread where the diagram is for a 4 terminal switch.

Here's the post:
Originally Posted by bdrummonds
Here you go Clint, sorry I didnt see this thread sooner.



now, what this diagram doesn't tell you is that you need to daisy chain your switches together, if you are running mor ethan one switch. that way you only have to have one positive wire, one ground wire, and one positive illumination wire running to one switch and then you can wire the switches in series to all use the same power and ground wires...... Clear as Mud?

#8 connects to Illum +, and then run a jumper to the #8 pole on the second switch, and a jumper to the #8 pole on the third switch.
#7 connects to ground -, and then a jumper to #7 pole second switch, and a jumper to #7 pole third switch
#2 connects to 12V+ switched power, and then a jumper to second switch #2 pole, and then jumper to third switch #2 pole.
#3 pole is your output to what ever ACC you are using the switch for. DO NOT DAISY CHAIN # 3 POLE.
Stewart
--------------------------------------------------------

....has a dead link to the pic. Luckily I saved the pic, so here it is...



Stewart
 
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