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Brake job Do I need to Bleed lines?

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Old 03-27-2014, 07:40 AM
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Brake job Do I need to Bleed lines?

I am going to be replacing my front pads and maybe rotors on my 2007 F150 4x4 Crew. Do I need to bleed my lines when replacing Pads or it not necessary? Thank you!
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:08 AM
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Not necessary but it never hurts to do it. Also how old is the brake fluid? It may be time to change that while your already dirty
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:51 AM
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looks kinda dirty. I have not done a brake job before. I was thinking just to replace the pads. If rotors are glazed do I need to change it also?
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:34 AM
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You can get away with just replacing the pads, but that's kind of a half way brake job. Was your truck stopping smoothly in all conditions? No vibrations when you hit the brakes? If so, and if the rotors look ok with no cracks or deep scratches, you are probably ok. Do not expect your new pads to last as long as the old ones.

As for bleeding, yes, bleed them a bit. The contamination in brake fluid comes from any point in the system where there is a seal, as well as any internal deterioration.
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:46 AM
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I have had no stopping issiues. I just was told that its getting close to minnimum pad level by shop. So do i open valve, pump brake 3 times then keep pedal to floor, then close valve to bleed them? Do i need to bleed the rear even though i'm not doing the rear? Thanks again for youe responses.
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Htarpley80
I have had no stopping issiues. I just was told that its getting close to minnimum pad level by shop. So do i open valve, pump brake 3 times then keep pedal to floor, then close valve to bleed them? Do i need to bleed the rear even though i'm not doing the rear? Thanks again for youe responses.
You might as well bleed the whole system. You want to start on the caliper farthest from the master cylinder which is your right rear and work your way toward the master cylinder. You will need a partner to pump the brakes for you. Leave the bleeder closed, pump the brakes and hold the pedal down, open the bleeder till the pedal hits the floor and close the bleeder before the pedal is released or you will suck air back into the line. Repeat till clear, bubble free fluid exits the caliper. It helps to attach a piece if clear plastic tubing to the bleeder and stick the end in a bottle of clean brake fluid so you can't suck air, and it makes the jib less messy. Good luck.
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:20 AM
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Will do thanks!
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:16 PM
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Look in your owners manual or maint manual. But I believe you should do this every 3 years or so. Brake fluid in of its self attracts water and general degrades over time. This is way way way to often overlooked in my opinion. Good maint to do it every 3 years or so.
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:37 PM
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If you buy or borrow a vacuum pump you can do the job quicker (the bleeding), and without a helper. Less potential for air getting sucked back into the line that way.
 
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:58 PM
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Moisture goes into solution in brake fluid, eventually causing corrosion throughout the system. More importantly, when the brakes get hot under heavy use, the water can gas out. Water vapor is compressible, which gives you 'brake fade' at the very time you don't want it. A visual check proves nothing, but its what I go by anyway. New brake fluid is a light amber transparent fluid. When it starts to get darker, I will then have the system flushed with new brake fluid the next time I need any kind of brake work. Never wait for it to get opaque/dark brown/black.
 
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:50 PM
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If you've gone long enough to hit the minimum, and you're already doing pads and rotors, 90% of the labor is already done. Just go ahead and get a can and have your buddy help you do it. It can make a big difference in pedal feel, and will save your braking system in the long run.
 
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