Wanting to make sure that I have everything straight before I jump in on the swap to a 3G alternator.

Truck is an 87 F250 with the 7.5L.

The old alternator is 7" c-c but the 8.25" is the one I see most recommended for my engine. The lower adjusting arm pivots so I assume it can move enough to mount the larger casing.

There is a white wire heading up to the carb. Haven't lifted the air filter to see if its still hooked up, believe its for the choke heater. But if it is, and I still have the stock carb, do I need to get the electric choke kit, P/N 45-223? Saw it mentioned over at FSB, but it was referencing a 1G alternator.

 

The white/black wire is the stator wire.
It goes to the choke, too.
You can keep it instead of going to a 12V choke cap.

I have the 8 1/4" 3G from a 3.8l Taurus.
The adjuster ear is thicker, so you need to straighten out the offset bend of the arm a little bit.

 

I would think you could use a stock 130amp 3G alternator that the 460 came from the factory with.
That is what my 1994 460 has on it with a built in regulator.

 

I'm looking at alternators for a 1994 7.5l pickup on the various autoparts stores and it is showing me a 80A 2G style alternator.
There doesn't seem to be an option for high output.

Gold Duralast/Alternator (DLG7745-16-2) | 1994 Ford F250 3/4 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders G 7.5L MFI | AutoZone.com

 

Try looking for a 1995 F53 460 alternator.
The 1994 is the same but nobody list them and I do not know why.

http://catalog.remyinc.com/Product/Details/92310

Here is another:
ACDELCO
Part Number: 335-1110
Product Notes:
Alternator
w/142mm (5 5/8) Dia Alt Case ; 130 Amps, 1 Per Veh

Per Vehicle: 1; Years: 1995-1997


OR
ACDELCO 3351110
/

 

So you can still use the stator wire from the new alternator to power the choke?

The electric choke on the 6180 doesn't use 12v if I am understanding everything right, something around 7.5v. Also saw somewhere about wiring the choke to a switched power source and dropping a resistor inline.

 

Sure you can.
You have to modify the 2G regulator plug to work with the 3G anyhow.
Why add needless complexity and defeat the advantage of failsafe choke power?

The stator is getting power before the three legs of current from the alternator.

 

Some information on the 130amp.
Look at the front of the alternator.
You will see 3 pairs of ribs.
If there are four holes between the ribs it is a 95A.
If there are two holes between the pairs of ribs it is 130A.








/

 

^^^
That is 8.25", you can tell by the reliefs in the two mounting bosses.

If you notice, the adjuster ear on top is ~3/4" thick rather than the 2G's ~1/2".
This is why you have to straighten out the adjuster arm a little.

For bottom mounting you probably want to re-clock the rear case so the regulator plug is pointing at the fender.

 

Here is how my 1994 F53 is wired with the 130A charging system.
It shows all the wire sizes of the charging system.



/

 

Take the regulator plug yellow/white (sense) and jump it directly to the alternator output stud.
If the either of those fusible links fails the alternator will go full field and have a meltdown.

 

Not sure what you are trying to say here.
The yellow/white (sense) is an information wire to the voltage regulator to tell the regulator what the battery voltage is.

 

Right.
And if either of the two fusible links in your diagram fails, the regulator will 'think' there is no voltage in the system.
The alternator will then go to full output and the windings or rectifier will overheat and fail in short order.
This is the same reason a battery should always be recharged before starting an engine where the alternator has been replaced.

 

Per a post in '09, this is how I was going to wire the regulator.

You have 3 wires, "A,S, and I" coming out of the voltage regulator. Starting with "A" (the yellow wire), it only needs an eyelet on it and then loop it to the battery post of the alternator. Next wire is "S" (the white wire). It comes out of the connector and the other end plugs into the remaining terminal of the alternator. Last wire is the "I" (the green with red stripe wire). You will need to cut the green with red stripe wire in the truck's alternator wiring harness.

And since the 2G alt ran a wire to the electric choke, I'll hook that back into the S (white) wire, similar to how it was originally.

 

Exactly.

Use an insulated spade connector if you don't want to pony up the stupid money for the difficult to find 'S' connector.

Motorcraft #WPT852
Ford #5U2Z-14S411-TA