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2010 f350 rust

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Old 03-18-2014, 08:19 PM
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2010 f350 rust

Premature rust anyone ?

I recently drove my rust free 99 crew cab v10 to North Carolina. It was a great truck till it blew a spark plug !!! I pulled in yo the local ford dealer where I found a beautiful 2010 f350 lariat fx4 power stoke. I've been wanting one of these for awhile now so I bought it. 56000 miles. I'm a very meticulous person so after getting home I started detailing only to find surface rust starting every where there Is no paint underneath. I plan to sandblast and undercoat. Anyone else experiencing this ?
 
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:27 PM
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Are you talking about the frame or the floor pans/seams? Surface rust is normal on frames over time. I had an 88 gmc from New Mexico, the truck never saw salt but the frame had surface rust. I would simply leave the rust and spray everything with fluid film.
 
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:32 PM
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Floor pans, seams, everywhere under side of body. Frame is perfect
 
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:35 PM
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Are you sure the truck was never in a flood? That does seem like an awful lot of rust for a 2010.

Can you post pics of the areas?
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:28 AM
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ditto on the flood concern.

there are products to power wash the salt out of the metal. sand blasting would not clean up the salt embeded in the metal pors and may result in sand and such being pushed into all you seals.

rather than going crazy on a mechanical remidiation program....you should look into checmical approaches....rust converters work very well and are easy to apply.

Once a year, after a good under carriage power wash, I spray rust converter thru out the under carriage, lower radiator area, oil and trans pan area, and as mush of the mechanical linkages that I can get to.

I use a 5 gallon pump up srayer.

I buy the rust converter on line for about 75 bucks a gallon. I buy a 4 once container of tannic acid (active ingredient in rust converter).

I mix 1 qt of water with the gallon of rust converter, add an ounce of tannic acid. shake it up in the spray container...pump it up, and spray away. thick spray works better than fine mist....I usally get a few glogs in the nozzle which can be cleaned pretty quick by unscrwing the nozzle and tapping it on a hard surface.

the spray event is fast moving and will take less than 5 minues. If you are too slow you will run out of converter and wast a lot of fluid.

come back in an hour and all the rust is now a black coating that freezes further rust and has a polymer coating to maintan the protection.

On the east coats, those il and tranny fluid approaches dont seem to work. I have new motor cycle parts in a pail of motor oil and even submerged in the oil they rust.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:47 AM
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Being in the rust belt I'm glad I paid the extra 1200 to have it undercoated from the factory. They sprayed on some nice thick material over the frame and every spot of metal they could find.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:32 PM
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I will try to post some pictures this weekend.
it seems the E-coating is bubbling off the underside. I hit a few spots with a wire wheel today and its clean metal underneath. Im going too blast and coatt with por-15
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:47 PM
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Sorry I haven't posted I've been busy, I did however sand blast the spots under the cab
Which were mainly the edges of the spot welded pieces and painted with rust converter, so far so good ! It's just surface rust. I'm going to pull off the bed and blast it apply Por 15 them undercoat. While under there I blasted and painted the driveshafts and rear end. Front is next apparently Ford doesn't see the need to paint these parts anymore !!! What the heck
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:47 PM
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If you are getting a lot of rust and it's an east coast truck, you may have just found out what driving a truck through ocean water will do. I had an old beater that I took to the OBX and ran through very little water that was up on the beach. I sprayed under it to clean it but within about four years, you could almost see through the floor.
 
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