Ok, last winter noticed that temp control would not allow fine tune temp settings. If at say 68 degrees, air (with engine full operation temp) the air would be cold. If I adjusted to say 74 degrees the temp would suddenly go to full 90 degree hot. Nothing inbetween. I am now experiencing the same when in AC mode this late spring. It is an '08 King Ranch F150 with just past warranty mileage. I can fix most things myself but lack trouble shooting/diagnostic tools.
One has told me the whole heater control unit must be replaced but reading posts makes me suspect it might be flap door module or such.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Replace the blend door actuator with an updated version to correct this issue. If you take it to your selling dealer they might be able to get it repaired at a discount since you are just out of warranty. The actuator is inexpensive so if you think you can do it yourself you can save money that way too. Its not the easiest one I have ever done though and with proper tools on the 08 takes me about 30-45 mins removing radio, dropping glove box and removing the air bag on the passenger side.

 

If that doesent fix the problem,Ive got a temp control( digital dash unit) Ill sell cheap.I bought it hoping to upgrade my 07 F-150XL,but after getting it did the research,( which I should have done in the beginning)and found it would be way to extensive to do.

 

I have the same problem with my 08 F-150. The climate temp wanders around. Is replacement of the door blend servo really less than a one hour job?

 

yeah I just did mine the other day and it took about 45 minutes. Best tool for the job: a 8mm closed end wrench. The toughest part is getting to the back bolt (there are 3 that hold it in place).


Remove the audio unit. (7mm screws)
While pushing the glove compartment door tab, position the glove compartment downward.
Remove the 3 temperature blend door actuator screws. (8mm screws)
Detach the temperature blend door actuator.
Disconnect the temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll get one ordered.

 

Its a lot easier to remove the back bolt if you remove the passenger airbag. That can be a bit of a chore too but not near as much tearing your arm up squeezing in to get that back bolt, at least it is for this 55 year old fart. you will need a long extension and swivel 8mm or 5/16 socket from there.

 

I finished the job up last night and couldn't be happier. Thanks to this forum I spent a couple hours figuring out how to fix the problem and an hour or so actually doing the work. Toughest part was getting the plastic removed without breaking anything, that took most of the time. I knew I was on the right path when the local Ford garage had two of these parts in stock. Thanks a million for helping me out HomerWinslow or I'd still be scratching my head.

 

What is the P/N of the new updated one? My blend door is horrible to say the least...

I have a routine I do to get it to switch the way I need it to.. but it is a PITA!

Finally.. any good online OEM Ford Truck parts sites?

 

I dont know about online Ford parts dealers since I work for a dealership, dont have anyone who can beat my employee cost. All I an remember of the top of my head is the newer part starts with 9 where the older one started with 4 and basic number is 19E616. They have been in the parts system a long time so I know any dealer can give you a part number and the price should be around 50 dollars... I would think one of these guys who have installed thier own have a number for you..

 

TascaParts.com and RockAuto Auto Parts are great. It is Motorcraft # 9L3Z-19E616-E

I recently replaced mine too but I just got back from a trip and it was fine for hours until at one point it just starts blowing straight cold air (was set halfway on the hot side). Now I'm assuming it's the dial control. Was this revised too? Does anyone have the part number handy for the newer one if that was the case?

 

No changes in the control head. If you need one of those they arent real cheap. I would have a diagnostic done before you commit that much. It may have been a glitch if it was running a long time on a long trip. If it was corrected with a cycle of the ignition key I wouldnt waste a lot of expense tracking it down.

 

Thanks Homer. Yeah I was hoping for it to be the actuator.

 

Ive had to replace a number of control heads in the past so it is possible to be that too, but it is much much less common. I dont know the price of the manual control head but I know some of the EATC control heads can cost over 600.00, so I would make sure that is the problem.

 

I'll have to check the reciept and get a post up.