Severe backfire, no power
#31
I tried to find that part number on ebay or the motorcraft website and cannot find that part number....is there another part # that'll work?
I am just afraid of getting the wrong part and it won't work! I feel like I am "this close" to getting this thing on the road!
I really do appreciate all y'alls help in this guys
I am just afraid of getting the wrong part and it won't work! I feel like I am "this close" to getting this thing on the road!
I really do appreciate all y'alls help in this guys
#32
The number on the part should be F2TF 12A650-CC and this is the number that part stores go by and also salvage yards and ebay listings. On the net you can also search for F2TF-CC as some sites will leave out the center base number as all computers have that same base number.
The part number or service number and only Ford dealers go by it is F2TZ 12A650-CC.
The number on the part is a drawing number or Engineering number and not the part number but everybody uses it but Ford because it is on the part.
/
The part number or service number and only Ford dealers go by it is F2TZ 12A650-CC.
The number on the part is a drawing number or Engineering number and not the part number but everybody uses it but Ford because it is on the part.
/
#33
#34
Ok sorry, one more question. I saw looked on that rockauto page and found the correct part # my question is it says below "Number of terminals: 10+6"....not sure what that means? I just really want to get the correct one.
Thank you SO much
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # EM885 More Info {#F2TZ12A650CC} Reman; Pin Terminals; Terminal Gender: Male; Number of Terminals: 10 + 6; Number of Electrical Connectors: 2; Flashable: No; Connector Gender: Female
XL Model; XLT Model; Trans. code E4OD; OE No. F2TF-CC; Federal Emissions
Thank you SO much
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # EM885 More Info {#F2TZ12A650CC} Reman; Pin Terminals; Terminal Gender: Male; Number of Terminals: 10 + 6; Number of Electrical Connectors: 2; Flashable: No; Connector Gender: Female
XL Model; XLT Model; Trans. code E4OD; OE No. F2TF-CC; Federal Emissions
#35
#36
Copy that I am hitting the order button now!
You guys rock, thank you sincerely for your help. Between this truck and my big boat....I haven't been able to do anything else!
#37
Ok so, now the battery is dead and wont take a charge. The battery is healthy, lets get this out of the way....it isnt the battery. Something is draining the battery instantly. It wont charge.
When I hook up jumper box i hear a clunk under hood under driver side, then again when I unhook it. Sounds like a relay or solenoid closing and opening. But, on the driver side? What is over there? I know there are the relays in the power dist box but, would those drain batt?
I am lost....PLEASE help ! ha ha...how pitiful.
When I hook up jumper box i hear a clunk under hood under driver side, then again when I unhook it. Sounds like a relay or solenoid closing and opening. But, on the driver side? What is over there? I know there are the relays in the power dist box but, would those drain batt?
I am lost....PLEASE help ! ha ha...how pitiful.
#38
Scenario 1
Most of the time it happens the other way around but if the Ignition switch or its plug has a short from the yellow wires to the red wire with a green stripe this can happen.
I have not seen or heard of this happening but then the red wire with a green stripe will supply power to the Ignition coil and the coil of the power relay.
When the power relay is made it will then send power to all of the solenoids, relay coils and the computer.
You will also hear the relays closing on the drivers side when the when power is applied to the battery cables if this happens.
Scenario 2
If the the fuel pump relay coil ground wire is shorted to ground either by its wire or a shorted transistor in the Computer the fuel pump relay will close and the selected fuel pump will run draining the battery.
Scenario 3
If the Power relays contacts are welded together when power is applied to the battery cables the power from the power relay will go to all the solenoids, computer and then the computer will ground the fuel pump relay coil and you would hear the fuel pump relay on the drivers side close.
Most of the time it happens the other way around but if the Ignition switch or its plug has a short from the yellow wires to the red wire with a green stripe this can happen.
I have not seen or heard of this happening but then the red wire with a green stripe will supply power to the Ignition coil and the coil of the power relay.
When the power relay is made it will then send power to all of the solenoids, relay coils and the computer.
You will also hear the relays closing on the drivers side when the when power is applied to the battery cables if this happens.
Scenario 2
If the the fuel pump relay coil ground wire is shorted to ground either by its wire or a shorted transistor in the Computer the fuel pump relay will close and the selected fuel pump will run draining the battery.
Scenario 3
If the Power relays contacts are welded together when power is applied to the battery cables the power from the power relay will go to all the solenoids, computer and then the computer will ground the fuel pump relay coil and you would hear the fuel pump relay on the drivers side close.
#39
I hope and pray it isn't something to do with the new PCM I just installed but that is when it started.
I guess Ill do some poking around, checking voltages etc...
Hope it aint this new PCM!
Thanks Subford
Edit: Just remembered...it couldn't be the new PCM because I disconnected the 60 pin harness and it is still doing it. There is no more clunk when I hook and unhook booster box but the battery is still being drained faster than it charges.
I guess Ill do some poking around, checking voltages etc...
Hope it aint this new PCM!
Thanks Subford
Edit: Just remembered...it couldn't be the new PCM because I disconnected the 60 pin harness and it is still doing it. There is no more clunk when I hook and unhook booster box but the battery is still being drained faster than it charges.
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