55 f100 panel truck ideas
#1
55 f100 panel truck ideas
Here's the panel truck! I caught hell getting that thing from Hermosa Beach to Chalrottesville, VA. But it's here!! It has a GM driveline -- 350 SBC, TH400, GM 10 bolt. It has a clip of some type in it. I haven't yet determined that yet, but it also has drum brakes all around. Weird and something I definitely want to fix to get it driving.
If anyone could offer some advice as to a 4 wheel disc solution, I'd definitely appreciate it. It's not going to be a show truck, but a driver type. I want good reliable brakes, with inexpensive but effective components. Also -- extra points for anyone that can identify the front clip from the pics I have so far.
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/HG...?sort=3&page=1
Thanks Haywood
#2
Welcome to the forum! There's no way we can tell you what you need until you know what you have. If it has already had a rear swap, it likely doesn't need another one unless it's broken. The only reason to do that away from the stock Dana is for better highway gears. The GM 10 bolt is a good one.
As for the front clip, until you know what you have there, we can't help with upgrades. If it has a GM clip, you're pretty much stuck with that unless you plan on replacing the entire frame. Let's just hope the work that's been done already was done well. Post up some pics when you get a chance.
As for the front clip, until you know what you have there, we can't help with upgrades. If it has a GM clip, you're pretty much stuck with that unless you plan on replacing the entire frame. Let's just hope the work that's been done already was done well. Post up some pics when you get a chance.
#3
Welcome Haywood.
Yeah, I agree with 52 Merc. Wait till you get it and then update us. If it's a GM 10 bolt and nova front clip, you should be able to do GM disc's without too much problem. There has to be kits for that. If you really want to change out the rear, I'd look for a 9 inch ford. But like I said, wait and see what you got. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Where you located?
Yeah, I agree with 52 Merc. Wait till you get it and then update us. If it's a GM 10 bolt and nova front clip, you should be able to do GM disc's without too much problem. There has to be kits for that. If you really want to change out the rear, I'd look for a 9 inch ford. But like I said, wait and see what you got. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Where you located?
#4
#5
I'd recommend you enjoy it for a while. Drive it see how you like what you have, then start changing stuff. Winters are good for making changes. If you keep the existing IFS get some Chevy books and look into just changing spindles and adding Monte Carlo or Nova front disks.
Just a suggestion. Start some sort of collection (Binder, Notebook, computer file) describing what you find out you have. If your parts aren't all from the same vehicle it will more than pay for the work you put in when you go looking for parts.
Enjoy!
Just a suggestion. Start some sort of collection (Binder, Notebook, computer file) describing what you find out you have. If your parts aren't all from the same vehicle it will more than pay for the work you put in when you go looking for parts.
Enjoy!
#6
I've also got an earlier GM frame clip that I installed back in the 80's. When everybody started using Mustang II front suspensions I figured my suspension was stuck in the dark ages, but with the big resurgence of 60 and 70's car collectors there are now all kinds of upgrades for those older suspensions. I bought a complete kit for my truck that included new drop spindles, discs and calipers and all associated hardware, all new suspension bushings, brake booster and master cylinder. I usually try to use salvage yard stuff on my build but when it comes to safety pieces I buy new.
Right now you have same bolt pattern wheels front and back. If you go back to a Ford rear you will obviously have to deal somehow with the different patterns. Just something to consider.
Right now you have same bolt pattern wheels front and back. If you go back to a Ford rear you will obviously have to deal somehow with the different patterns. Just something to consider.
#7
I agree with 53Fopar, if it ain't broke don't fix it, especially if you are on a tight budget. Biggest mistake novices to the hobby make is immediately making changes without any direction or solid reason. Suddenly a driveable truck is a pile of parts and the builder is in way over his head, he gets disgusted and the truck ends up being hauled off for scrap or sold for the parts for pennies on the dollar.
I posted how to develop a build plan in this topic:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1955-f250.html
I posted how to develop a build plan in this topic:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1955-f250.html
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#8
AX is dead on, ask me how I learned that one. My truck was driveable when I bought it. Needed new brakes and and steering box to be road-safe, but I jumped in whole-hog. The truck then sat completely dismantled for nearly 10 yrs. BIG mistake. Should've done it in stages. Would've been much more fun to drive than to step over parts every time I was in garage. Would've known better which way to go, had I driven it for 6-12 months while researching tech articles and attending shows and visiting sites like this one. Do as I say, not........
Welcome to another PANEL
James
Welcome to another PANEL
James
#9
Pics:
1955 Ford F100 Panel Photos by HGQjazz | Photobucket
Here are my thoughts on 'best' engine:
1. Whatever engine is still in it. In my case I have a 350 SBC that I hope I can get up and running without whole lot of effort. If i can get it going I will just use it until I can get more money for something better.
2. Something 'better' would probably be an L33 Gen III LS. It should get in there without too much trouble as there is a lot of collective experience in doing this particular swap. The engine is not too expensive, and it should be both light and powerful enough for a regular use vehicle. It's not the most glamorous thing in the world for a Ford F100 Panel. But it's economical, efficient, and effective for a driver --especially if I can get fuel injection worked out...With 25+mpg I would drive this vehicle a lot!
3. If i wanted to resell the vehicle for the maximum, I would do a 302 SBF. It's just easy and no one really has any complaints with their performance...and it's FORD. But I think I am going to keep this one, so I likely won't do a 302.
Anything else I should consider?
1955 Ford F100 Panel Photos by HGQjazz | Photobucket
Here are my thoughts on 'best' engine:
1. Whatever engine is still in it. In my case I have a 350 SBC that I hope I can get up and running without whole lot of effort. If i can get it going I will just use it until I can get more money for something better.
2. Something 'better' would probably be an L33 Gen III LS. It should get in there without too much trouble as there is a lot of collective experience in doing this particular swap. The engine is not too expensive, and it should be both light and powerful enough for a regular use vehicle. It's not the most glamorous thing in the world for a Ford F100 Panel. But it's economical, efficient, and effective for a driver --especially if I can get fuel injection worked out...With 25+mpg I would drive this vehicle a lot!
3. If i wanted to resell the vehicle for the maximum, I would do a 302 SBF. It's just easy and no one really has any complaints with their performance...and it's FORD. But I think I am going to keep this one, so I likely won't do a 302.
Anything else I should consider?
#10
hgiles, wow, look like a nice panel. I'd say you got a great starting point from those pictures.
I'd say stick with the 350 SBC if at all possible. There's a reason you see so many SBC's in hot rods. They're readily available and cheap, lots and lots of after market performance parts and huge knowledge base out there. If you have question about a SBC, you won't have a problem finding an answer.
A swap to fuel injected LS would be the last thing I would want. I don't want no stinking computer. I can fix carb's. Computers, not so much. You may feel different. Yeah, I know, better mileage. But I don't drive my truck because it gets good mileage. If I want mileage, I take my wife's honda.
As far as a swap back to a Ford motor, that's your call. I wouldn't want the 302 if I was going that route. The 289/302's never had enough torque to suit me. If you must go to small block Ford, I'd be looking for a 351 windsor.
I can't tell what that front clip is from the pic's. Could you get any info from the previous owner?
Anyway, good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
I'd say stick with the 350 SBC if at all possible. There's a reason you see so many SBC's in hot rods. They're readily available and cheap, lots and lots of after market performance parts and huge knowledge base out there. If you have question about a SBC, you won't have a problem finding an answer.
A swap to fuel injected LS would be the last thing I would want. I don't want no stinking computer. I can fix carb's. Computers, not so much. You may feel different. Yeah, I know, better mileage. But I don't drive my truck because it gets good mileage. If I want mileage, I take my wife's honda.
As far as a swap back to a Ford motor, that's your call. I wouldn't want the 302 if I was going that route. The 289/302's never had enough torque to suit me. If you must go to small block Ford, I'd be looking for a 351 windsor.
I can't tell what that front clip is from the pic's. Could you get any info from the previous owner?
Anyway, good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
#11
Thanks for the PICs
Well you've got a little work ahead of you but nothing you can't find here or on other parts sites. Not sure where you plan on storing it but that windshield needs to be fixed to save the inside. Getting the engine running is another must do. Then you'll need to get a gauge cluster. They come up on eBay & Craig's List, just start watching, OR you could go with a Dakota Digital cluster ($$$). Not sure what is up with the rear bumper, loose or bracket problem, but that and the panel under the rear doors can be fixed or replaced. Tail lights are available through some of the vendors such as MidFiftys and who knows what the wiring is like???? Probably ought to be thinking about a new harness from vendors like EZ or Ron Frances or many others, you don't want to start fixing stuff and the whole thing catch fire!
I'd check the brakes and replace what's needed, couldn't tell in the pictures if they were drums in front or not.
Looks like the interior is rough but these old trucks didn't have much inside (they were built for work vehicles) so if you can sit in it and drive that can all come as time and money is available.
Lookin forward to seeing what ya do with the ole 55 OBTW it's got a 54 grill
Well you've got a little work ahead of you but nothing you can't find here or on other parts sites. Not sure where you plan on storing it but that windshield needs to be fixed to save the inside. Getting the engine running is another must do. Then you'll need to get a gauge cluster. They come up on eBay & Craig's List, just start watching, OR you could go with a Dakota Digital cluster ($$$). Not sure what is up with the rear bumper, loose or bracket problem, but that and the panel under the rear doors can be fixed or replaced. Tail lights are available through some of the vendors such as MidFiftys and who knows what the wiring is like???? Probably ought to be thinking about a new harness from vendors like EZ or Ron Frances or many others, you don't want to start fixing stuff and the whole thing catch fire!
I'd check the brakes and replace what's needed, couldn't tell in the pictures if they were drums in front or not.
Looks like the interior is rough but these old trucks didn't have much inside (they were built for work vehicles) so if you can sit in it and drive that can all come as time and money is available.
Lookin forward to seeing what ya do with the ole 55 OBTW it's got a 54 grill
#12
The body looks resonably straight and rust free, but do get it inside or seal the windshield to keep the VA weather out. (by the way you are't too awful far from me, I'm in Durham NC. My guess is that someone tried to force a pickup bumper on the rear of the panel. The fronts were the same as the pickup, the rears were more curved. I don't know anyone making a shiny panel rear. Mid Fifty offers a SS one, and although it fits better than a pickup one, it is shorter than the original.) The rear pan isn't real difficult to repair or fab a replacement. I filled an aux gas tank (or maybe moonshine?) tank filler neck hole in the center of mine and frenched in LED backup lights. I have one good taillight and a pair of blue dot tailight lenses I'm not going to be using (branch fell and broke the other taillight housing
#13
#15
I am also hoping to identify this front clip. I am guessing 67-69 Camaro... I want to get disc brakes on it ASAP.
More pics here:
1955 Ford F100 Panel Photos by HGQjazz | Photobucket
Thanks in advance!!