So my generator finally gave up the ghost, so at first I decided the fastest solution would be to just replace it. Well in my town you can't do that, unless you order one. Well I was going from one store to the next looking for a new generator only to end up at Oreilly's at 7pm on tuesday night and by pure luck, the older gentleman working there knew what I was up against and quickly put me at rest. He went straight back and grabbed a part #: 01-1056 Delco CS series 140 Amp alternator (1996 Camaro, Delco calls it a Generator). Then he walked over to the repair harness section and grabbed a Dorman harness part#: 85854. He said "Here you go this will work great, easy to install."

Here's what I paid:

Alternator with lifetime warranty $135 + $18 core
harness $8.50
Gates # 0743 Belt $16

At this point I also got new battery cables as I knew the old ones where looking a bit long in the tooth.

So now I'm missing a v groove pulley to make this go, luckily a friend of mine happened to have one laying around so I solved that problem. Now the fun part: Getting it in my truck. I really didn't want to hack any of the generator brackets (who knows maybe someday my son will get the itch to restore the truck back to original) so I challenged myself to make it happen with altering the existing brackets.

To do this you need to make 3 spacers and one brace from a small piece of 1/2" x 1" CR steel with 2 3/8" or 7/16" holes spaced 1.125" apart

You also need a 3/8" or 7/16" 7-1/2" long bolt. If you use a 7/16" bolt you will have to drill out the upper mounting hole on the alternator. (I used 3/8")

I used a piece of 1/2" x 1" x 2-1/4" cold rolled steel to make the rear brace.
The spacers where made from a piece of scrap aluminum 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID tube I had laying around.

The 3 Spacers are: .563", 1.25" and 3.75" If you want to use a 7/16" bolt you'll have to drill the spacers out accordingly. I drilled mine oversize to ease installation.

So if you can make the spacers and the brace or have a friend that can, you can get upgrade you charging system and leave the brackets all in place ( you have to move the lower bracket down to the lower motor mount bolt location and flip the bracket over.

My understanding is that the rear brace is mandatory or you risk damaging the alternator.

Ok now the fun part: the wires. This is a no joke alternator so you need no joke cables. I happen to have a spare #0 battery cable so I ran that from the "BAT" post to the POS Battery post. Next I ran a #12 wire from the S terminal to the + junction post the starter relay. last I ran the only remaining wire which is from the GEN lamp (#18 yellow with black stripe) to the L terminal. Almost done, but not wanting to take any chances, I ran a #4 cable from the alternator case to the NEG battery post.

I have not added a resistor across the lamp yet as I'm not sure where I can tie it in without cutting any existing wires. The GEN lamp work perfectly.

Pics:

Notice the new location of the lower bracket with a longer bolt and spacer.



Here's what it looks like after giving the brackets a quick paint upgrade:



Belt alignment is perfect:



I have removed my Amp meter and plan on replacing it with a Voltmeter soon.
I noticed the alternator is putting out 14.73V which is a bit on the high side. That's with no extra load, and is putting out a whopping 3 amps with no extra load and 14.6V @ 10 Amps with the lights on (clamp on meter at the alternator).

 

right on man, looks good and thanks for all the pics. what are you going to run that needs the 140 amp?

 

Thanks maltman, I was taught to build everything as heavy duty as possible. I build Pipe Organs for a living and that's what we do. So I'm not after the Amp's I'm after longevity. Theoretically a beefiers alternator should last longer than a runty, feeble one. The extra capacity in nice though, now I won't have to wait till I'm on the freeway to turn on my heater.

So I just got back from my first test drive and I can say that, the fan belt WILL stretch and need adjusting after the first 10 minutes or so of driving. The voltage is now at 14.3V at idle with or without the lights on, so my battery was probably a bit tired when the generator died. So far so good. I might have an issue with the free chrome pulley I was given as the chrome might create a tendency to slip. If so, I'll hunt down a different, possibly larger diameter one, to tame this monster down.

 

Looks similar to what I did. Same basic idea. I like your use of pipe rather than nuts and washers. Much cleaner. Nice work!

 

Thanks! I think I must have ran across your picture before I started my project. I've been researching this topic for a while.

I got the Ameter out and the new voltmeter in place. looks like I'm going to have to remove the chrome alternator pulley and sand it or replace it with something else to deal with belt chirp during starting after heat soak.

 

Do you have access to sand blasting?

 

Or, belt dresiing? Out here in the sticks I have used a small dab of roof tar before.

 

Tri file, a vice and a bit of gentle massaging will work to get the chrome off

 

Thanks for the tips fellas. Well I just ran to Costco and back and not one peep from the belt. I am noticing an unrelated hot start issue with the starter hanging. Not sure If I have the timing to far advanced or not enough or if the starter is starting to cause trouble when it heat soaks on the first attempt to start after sitting for about 10 minutes or so. Starts instantly on the second try like it usually should.

Otherwise I like the new Voltmeter. Rock solid at 14V at any speed any load.

 

I love the success stories here. Great job!