clutch pedal sticking while driving
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clutch pedal sticking while driving
when im driving and reach for the pedal to shift sometimes it just falls and i gotta pull it up, kinda like i gotta pump it to get clutch power. if you know what i mean. i tried looking it up but couldnt find anything bu im also driving. i need to make it home and need truck in the Morning. please help me so if i need parts i can do.this fast.
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I just made it home, I checked the little black bottle/reservoir that is mounted under the hood up by the brake fluid reservoir and it does have some fluid in it, its not empty but its not full.
Where is the slave cylinder located and can i visually check it for faults?
Where is the slave cylinder located and can i visually check it for faults?
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That reservoir line is really long, it comes out and loops around then goes into the firewall kinda high up on the right hand side. Its possible im not looking at the right things. I need my truck for business tomorrow and im screwed if i cant get it figured out and running by then,
I found this in another thread: When the pedal got stuck on the floor, either the rod came completely out of the master, or the slave failed.
Some have had luck for a short time just replacing the clip and putting things back together. If it was just the rod coming out of the master, then a new master should fix you up. Not all masters come with a new rod, so look and determine if the rod and plastic bushing are in good shape before you buy.
If the rod is still in the master and the pedal is on the floor, it may be the slave. If you've got a broken clip on the master and a bad slave, I'd suggest you throw in the towel and just buy a pre-bled master/slave set up.
So from this thread I get that a rod must connect the pedal to the master cylinder...
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If you look on the firewall up behind the dash you will see the clutch pedal and connecting linkage to the clutch master cylinder. The hydraulic system or the lousy plastic clip is the most likely cause of your problem.The master cylinder has a rubber seal around the piston which makes the pedal work. If the rubber has deteriorated or if the metal cylinder has corroded inside, fluid leaks past the piston. Have you seen any fluid leaking into the truck onto the floor by your clutch pedal?
It is also possible that a worn out pressure plate or throwout bearing that is hanging up because of a problem with the pressure plate is also a possibility. The pressure plate has a spring action which forces the hydraulic fluid back up the hose and pushes the pedal back towards you when you release the pedal. This clutch system works just like the old drum type brakes. You push the brake pedal, it pushes on a master cylinder which sends fluid to a slave cylinder. When you release the pedal, the springs on the brake shoes pull back to the original position and push the brake pedal back hydraulically. Same type of operation for a hydraulic clutch setup. Sorry for all the words! Larry
It is also possible that a worn out pressure plate or throwout bearing that is hanging up because of a problem with the pressure plate is also a possibility. The pressure plate has a spring action which forces the hydraulic fluid back up the hose and pushes the pedal back towards you when you release the pedal. This clutch system works just like the old drum type brakes. You push the brake pedal, it pushes on a master cylinder which sends fluid to a slave cylinder. When you release the pedal, the springs on the brake shoes pull back to the original position and push the brake pedal back hydraulically. Same type of operation for a hydraulic clutch setup. Sorry for all the words! Larry
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724, i may be able to help, since ive experienced every possible scenerio with the m/s assy. !st thing is, if you got about 50k miles on the assy you have now, go to ANY parts store and get a new/pre-bled assy. Its worth the insurance bud, to throw a new one in, every 50k. The new assy will come with a "birdcage" plastic clip, so no need to order one of them.
Both the master assy (at firewall) and slave assy (protruding from bell housing) will fall out of their respective spots with a 1/4 turn...(counterclockwise). hen installing the master, install it first without the rod assy in it. Gives you more room to manuever. Once in place, theres "fingers" inside the unit that will "grab" the rod, and locks' it in place. As for the slave, DO NOT cut the "tabs" from the black cap. Leave entire assy alone, and lock it in place, to the bell housing. Prior to installing th slave, get a tape measure and measure from outer bell housing to the clutch fork..(inside housing, so stick tape inside until it hits the fork). It should be around 2-3/4in gap. If more, your fork is bent and the trans will need to be removed.
With everything removed prior to installing the new m/s assy, inspect the metal "nipple" off the clutch pedal, where the master rod connects to via the "birdcage". Make sure the factory weld hasnt gave way..(ask me how i know)....If alls good with metal nipple and clutch fork, roceed to install the new pre-bled unit...
Both the master assy (at firewall) and slave assy (protruding from bell housing) will fall out of their respective spots with a 1/4 turn...(counterclockwise). hen installing the master, install it first without the rod assy in it. Gives you more room to manuever. Once in place, theres "fingers" inside the unit that will "grab" the rod, and locks' it in place. As for the slave, DO NOT cut the "tabs" from the black cap. Leave entire assy alone, and lock it in place, to the bell housing. Prior to installing th slave, get a tape measure and measure from outer bell housing to the clutch fork..(inside housing, so stick tape inside until it hits the fork). It should be around 2-3/4in gap. If more, your fork is bent and the trans will need to be removed.
With everything removed prior to installing the new m/s assy, inspect the metal "nipple" off the clutch pedal, where the master rod connects to via the "birdcage". Make sure the factory weld hasnt gave way..(ask me how i know)....If alls good with metal nipple and clutch fork, roceed to install the new pre-bled unit...
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Well i bought my truck with 109,xxx and it now has 181,xxx and ive never came across this problem, so who knows if its ever been changed out before, as far as i know the whole clutch unit is stock, because everything else was on this truck when i purchased it a goof 5-6 years ago.
After this problem first started i just added DOT3 fluid to the reservoir and the problem subsided until today. So today i went to add more fluid, and there wasn't room for any. So im super confused.
After this problem first started i just added DOT3 fluid to the reservoir and the problem subsided until today. So today i went to add more fluid, and there wasn't room for any. So im super confused.
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I checked under my pedals for fluid coming out and where i have circled there were a few drops of fluid. I called Advance Auto and AutoZone and neither of them have what i want, a prebled full assembly, Advance says they list 7 things but can only get one, and AutoZone says they have a picture for it but cant get it.