'50 F1 6 banger to a '53-'65 4 speed tranny?
#1
'50 F1 6 banger to a '53-'65 4 speed tranny?
Morning. Needing some information on how I can mate a '50 F1 Flathead 6 to a '53-'65 Ford 4 speed tranny with synchronizers. I've been told I'll need an adapter plate which seems to not be available.
Are the factory plates that bolt to the block the same on the flathead 6 & flathead V-8?
I'd like to keep my heap as stock looking as possible. The one solid way I could go is to drop in a 3 speed.....right? If so, what might I be gaining or loosing please?
Thanks in advance for any help, thoughts, idears & tips.
Are the factory plates that bolt to the block the same on the flathead 6 & flathead V-8?
I'd like to keep my heap as stock looking as possible. The one solid way I could go is to drop in a 3 speed.....right? If so, what might I be gaining or loosing please?
Thanks in advance for any help, thoughts, idears & tips.
#3
The later 4 speed (Borg-Warner T-98) will not fit your truck without butchering the cross member.
If you don't plan on towing or heavy hauling, get a light duty three speed. This is the continuation of the transmission family that goes back to 1932. It is basically an open drive version of the 39 Ford top loader transmission the hot rodders talk about. If you make the switch you will have to change your driveshaft since the front u-joint setup is different.
If you don't plan on towing or heavy hauling, get a light duty three speed. This is the continuation of the transmission family that goes back to 1932. It is basically an open drive version of the 39 Ford top loader transmission the hot rodders talk about. If you make the switch you will have to change your driveshaft since the front u-joint setup is different.
#4
The later 4 speed (Borg-Warner T-98) will not fit your truck without butchering the cross member.
If you don't plan on towing or heavy hauling, get a light duty three speed. This is the continuation of the transmission family that goes back to 1932. It is basically an open drive version of the 39 Ford top loader transmission the hot rodders talk about. If you make the switch you will have to change your driveshaft since the front u-joint setup is different.
If you don't plan on towing or heavy hauling, get a light duty three speed. This is the continuation of the transmission family that goes back to 1932. It is basically an open drive version of the 39 Ford top loader transmission the hot rodders talk about. If you make the switch you will have to change your driveshaft since the front u-joint setup is different.
#5
The later 4 speed (Borg-Warner T-98) will not fit your truck without butchering the cross member.
If you don't plan on towing or heavy hauling, get a light duty three speed. This is the continuation of the transmission family that goes back to 1932. It is basically an open drive version of the 39 Ford top loader transmission the hot rodders talk about. If you make the switch you will have to change your driveshaft since the front u-joint setup is different.
If you don't plan on towing or heavy hauling, get a light duty three speed. This is the continuation of the transmission family that goes back to 1932. It is basically an open drive version of the 39 Ford top loader transmission the hot rodders talk about. If you make the switch you will have to change your driveshaft since the front u-joint setup is different.
I got rid of my crunch box and put one in from a 1951 sycro 4 speed. It
went right in my 1950 bolt for bolt.
#6
Thanks everyone for the information. Long story short, I'd like to replace my stock 4 speed with no synchronizer's with a stock 4 speed that does have synchronizer's.
Sorry for any confusion.
Any notion on how or if a Borg-Warner T18 would bolt up?
@ Kurt G.: Yes, a stock ??'53-'65?? 4 speed with synchronizers to my 1950 flathead 6 banger.
@ '38 Coupe: I'm restoring a '56 Shasta camping trailer to pull behind it. What would I be gaining/loosing with a 3 speed other than having synchronizer's between 2-3 gear?
@ ALBUQ F-1: Same question on the 3 speed, what might I be gaining/loosing? How might I tell the difference between the 2, a light duty and heavy duty tranny?
@ big job: Really? Might you have some numbers off your tranny so I know what to search for?
Thanks again.
Sorry for any confusion.
Any notion on how or if a Borg-Warner T18 would bolt up?
@ Kurt G.: Yes, a stock ??'53-'65?? 4 speed with synchronizers to my 1950 flathead 6 banger.
@ '38 Coupe: I'm restoring a '56 Shasta camping trailer to pull behind it. What would I be gaining/loosing with a 3 speed other than having synchronizer's between 2-3 gear?
@ ALBUQ F-1: Same question on the 3 speed, what might I be gaining/loosing? How might I tell the difference between the 2, a light duty and heavy duty tranny?
@ big job: Really? Might you have some numbers off your tranny so I know what to search for?
Thanks again.
#7
The F-1 transmission mount and cross member is very different from the F-2 to F-6 transmission mount and "big hoop" cross member. No transmission longer than the stock four speed crashbox fits without butchering the cross member.
A light duty three speed has very similar ratios to the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears in your four speed. You loose the "granny" first gear. If you are towing a light trailer that is probably not a problem. The light duty three is a nice transmission that will shift smoothly and quickly if it is in good shape. It is very easy to rebuild and get parts for. These are fairly easy to find (I have several closed drive units and one open drive unit in my dad's garage).
A heavy duty three speed has a bit lower first and second gear than the light duty three. This is a good transmission to use if you go to a higher speed rear axle ratio. It shifts slower than the light duty three and is harder to get parts for. It is somewhat difficult to find. I'm currently looking for one to put in my brother's F-1 to go with a higher speed rear axle (he would like to drive down the highway at 70 m.p.h.).
A T-98 synchronized four was optional during these years in the F-6 trucks. It is a rare transmission that will not fit your truck's frame. The transmission case and gears are different that the 1953 and later transmission. Chuck of Chuck's Trucks is an expert on this.
Depending on the weight of your trailer I recommend a light duty three speed or heavy duty three speed with a 3.73 or 3.92 axle ratio. What does your trailer weigh and where do you plan on towing? Driving an old truck through the mountains is very different than driving an old truck across Kansas...
All sorts of transmission information and other flathead information, most of it correct, can be found on Mac Van Pelt's website. He has a very nice book about the light duty three speeds that I recommend.
A light duty three speed has very similar ratios to the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears in your four speed. You loose the "granny" first gear. If you are towing a light trailer that is probably not a problem. The light duty three is a nice transmission that will shift smoothly and quickly if it is in good shape. It is very easy to rebuild and get parts for. These are fairly easy to find (I have several closed drive units and one open drive unit in my dad's garage).
A heavy duty three speed has a bit lower first and second gear than the light duty three. This is a good transmission to use if you go to a higher speed rear axle ratio. It shifts slower than the light duty three and is harder to get parts for. It is somewhat difficult to find. I'm currently looking for one to put in my brother's F-1 to go with a higher speed rear axle (he would like to drive down the highway at 70 m.p.h.).
A T-98 synchronized four was optional during these years in the F-6 trucks. It is a rare transmission that will not fit your truck's frame. The transmission case and gears are different that the 1953 and later transmission. Chuck of Chuck's Trucks is an expert on this.
Depending on the weight of your trailer I recommend a light duty three speed or heavy duty three speed with a 3.73 or 3.92 axle ratio. What does your trailer weigh and where do you plan on towing? Driving an old truck through the mountains is very different than driving an old truck across Kansas...
All sorts of transmission information and other flathead information, most of it correct, can be found on Mac Van Pelt's website. He has a very nice book about the light duty three speeds that I recommend.
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks again 38 Coupe! Damned good reading.
My '56 Shasta weighs around 1100-1300 lbs. {ball parked weight}
As for as to where I'll be going, ain't got a clue. I've got a 50/50 shot at going through some mountains at some point I'm sure.
Still recommend the light duty 3 speed?
Thanks again.
My '56 Shasta weighs around 1100-1300 lbs. {ball parked weight}
As for as to where I'll be going, ain't got a clue. I've got a 50/50 shot at going through some mountains at some point I'm sure.
Still recommend the light duty 3 speed?
Thanks again.
#9
I think a light duty three speed would work well for you. I have towed a 1937 John Deere A tractor with a 50 F-1 and a light duty three speed. If you do slow down to the point you need to down shift, the light duty three is the easiest to shift.
The rear axle ratio is the variable I would consider. If you do primarily flatland driving you would benefit from a 3.73 ratio. If you do mixed driving the 3.92 ratio would work ok. If you drive in the mountains mostly the low 4.27 ratio might be best, but it limits cruising speed a lot.
The rear axle ratio is the variable I would consider. If you do primarily flatland driving you would benefit from a 3.73 ratio. If you do mixed driving the 3.92 ratio would work ok. If you drive in the mountains mostly the low 4.27 ratio might be best, but it limits cruising speed a lot.
#10
#11
#12
#13
Excellent information!! Thank ya both so much!!
My 4 speed was jumping outta 4th after a new clutch plate was installed going down hill & coasting on level ground. That sucked. For some crazy reason that stopped after my motor was rebuilt & dropped back in. Crazy ain't it?!
So to add chances in my favor, find a light duty 3 speed & have it rebuilt before installation? Logical thinking.
Thanks again.
My 4 speed was jumping outta 4th after a new clutch plate was installed going down hill & coasting on level ground. That sucked. For some crazy reason that stopped after my motor was rebuilt & dropped back in. Crazy ain't it?!
So to add chances in my favor, find a light duty 3 speed & have it rebuilt before installation? Logical thinking.
Thanks again.
#14
Find a light duty 3 speed and rebuild it yourself. A lot of rebuilders might not look for the kind of damage that ALBUQ F-1 is describing. Get the transmission book from Van Pelt, post pictures of your parts when you get things disassembled, and we will help talk you through it. I expect this to be much less expensive than paying someone else to do the work for you, and you know the quality will be there when you are done.
#15
Warner T-98 replaced in 1965 with either the Warner T-18 or New Process 435, with one exception.
The only 1965/66's that came w/a T-98 were P350/500's with diesel engines. P Series Parcel Delivery-front doors slide back/forth.
Ford type 3.03 3 speed all syncromesh manual trans initially introduced in 1963 F100/250 & Custom/Galaxie. Used thru 1986 in myriad Passenger Cars/Trucks/Bronco's & Econolines.
1948/56 Warner T-98 Applications:
The only 1965/66's that came w/a T-98 were P350/500's with diesel engines. P Series Parcel Delivery-front doors slide back/forth.
Ford type 3.03 3 speed all syncromesh manual trans initially introduced in 1963 F100/250 & Custom/Galaxie. Used thru 1986 in myriad Passenger Cars/Trucks/Bronco's & Econolines.
1948/56 Warner T-98 Applications: