Just electric, I'm waiting for a manual choke conversion for mine to show up in the mail. I'm tired of electric chokes.

 

Gary, I took it apart today, I was concerned because it had an old GP-Sorensen kit in it and the needles and seats those used were famous for stripping the bowls but they were fine.

 

That's correct. The Summit Racing Carburetor is the old Holley 4010 design (which was itself directly based off of the Ford Autolite 4100) that has been improved. There are no gaskets below fuel level to leak like the typical Holley design. And thanks to the annular boosters, throttle response and efficiency are both excellent. I think they are a good choice if you are going to by a new carburetor and drveability is important.

These carburetors have an electric choke. Electric chokes work "okay." They just work on a timer that has absolutely nothing to do with what the engine actually needs. By design, sometimes the choke will come off too soon, and other times the choke will turn on when the engine doesn't need it all. Therefore, driveability is just not going to be as good and smooth as a carburetor equipped with a thermostatic "hot air" choke.

Which means the *only* perfect carburetor is the FORD Autolite 2100/Motorcraft 2150 2V and the Autolite 4100 4V.

And that is why my 1985 Ford F150 Lariat has an Autolite 4100.

 

BINGO with the electric choke. I hate mine, that's the only thing I can say I really liked about my Edelbrock AFB better than the Holley, is the electric choke on the Edelbrock came off slower, and didn't come back on near as fast as the Holley. It was also more gradual for coming off. The Holley starts on the highest idle cam and when you go to kick it off 10 seconds later to the next lowest position it's all the way at the hot idle setting, no matter then choke tension setting. I'm converting mine to manual choke using one of the generic manual choke kits. I'd rather control it myself anyways, plus I'm the only one who ever drives it.

 

Try running the Holley choke off the stator lead, it's 7 volts rather than 14.

 

I did that when I first put it on, took 10 minutes for it to come off! and when it finally got fully opened, it cooled back down on a whim.

 

Carterbrocks seem to do well with the e-choke. And while I agree the hot-air choke has the potential to provide a more accurate choke operation, millions of cars were sent out with e-chokes and worked well.

Sounds like the Summit carb isn't what I'm looking for since the choke doesn't work. Thanks, Matthew. You may have saved me some grief.

 

Sorry, Bill. I almost missed this. Thanks for doing that.

I've not run across that kit. In fact, I learned long ago to stay with Holley kits for them. The one I had on the original Super Bee blew power valves and had bowl gaskets leaking so frequently that I was always putting a kit in it. Once, and only once, I used a off-brand kit and discovered the hard way that the metering body gasket only had an accelerator pump hole on one side. So, if you put it in the wrong way 'round, as I did, you had no accelerator pump. And when it got cold it refused to start.

 

You know better than that, Gary. Summit (or Holley) wouldn't put their name on the carburetor if the choke "doesn't work." The electric choke on the Summit Racing carburetor works just as well as any other carburetor with an electric choke.

They will just never work as good as a "hot air" choke.

 

Choke works fine for the most part, I just really don't like E chokes and want to control it myself. From early spring to about this time in the year it works perfectly. If someone wanted to tune it farther it would work fine, but I don't feel like it and always wanted it manual anyways. I suppose you could always put the Edelbrock choke cap on it, it'll fit. But it has a lot more bimetallic windings in it than the Holley cap does.

For what it's worth, I remember Chris complaining about the same thing with the 670 Truck Avenger carb he has. Comes off too fast and comes back on too fast. But, if he see's this. He can tell you himself. As I don't really remember all what he said. But I remember that.

 

Sounds like it doesn't work to me. Or, did you mis-type?

 

Mis typed a bit of it. I had it set currently just a step lean of the middle setting. During the summer I have it set even leaner past the last lean notch. I COULD set it for stronger tension, and it would work just fine. But, I don't want the thing to come back on every 10 minutes after being shut down.

 

Does anyone know if the 2150/4100 hot air choke could be adapted to the Summit carb. If it is basically a rework of the 4100, it might be possible to use the choke set-up from a 2150/4100 to get "the best of both worlds", so to speak.

I had planned to look into the Summit carb. later on and since my Edelbrock manifold has the provision for the "choke stove" it sure would be nice to use it.

Of course Summit couldn't build them that way since only Fords would be set up right.

 

I don't know if the hot-air choke can be adapted, but if so the carb would have to be jetted slightly richer to account for the constant air leak the choke introduces.

Here are a couple of shots of the hot-air choke on the 2150 from Dad's truck. perhaps Matthew can tell us if it looks like it might bolt on.

 

And, by the way, the 1981 EVTM says: