1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

new f100 enthusiast 1 question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 02-25-2014, 08:40 AM
bjmayberry2's Avatar
bjmayberry2
bjmayberry2 is online now
Lead Driver
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wentzville, MO
Posts: 8,319
Received 543 Likes on 349 Posts
Originally Posted by classic55ford
I'm ready to buy one right now pal I tried p'ming you but I can't seem to figure it out lol
First off Welcome to FTE. Just one more post and you'll have 5 posts, then you can count down the days?

I agree with the $$$ AX was discussing above but that's for a finished project. You can buy a no power train truck, throw a CROWN VIC or Mark VIII power train in it and drive for under $5,000 (if you can do the work yourself). Of course that's a truck in whatever condition you bought it (not pretty) with no paint, stock steering and drum brakes but a driver. Then build the truck of your dreams while time, money and your abilities permit. AX has a great post here on FTE about making a truck plan.

In answer to your original question (If all the parts are there) $1500 to $2500 looks like what their asking in Southern CA for a complete (less power train) 53-56 small back window F100.
 
  #17  
Old 02-25-2014, 09:38 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer
AXracer is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,844
Received 53 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by classic55ford
I'm think 460 BB with a 8.71 blower weekend have fun car maybe track it few times a year but it has to be street not track cause I wanna drive it into the ground!!!
Seriously? drive it on the street? I hope you have a whole lot of high performance experience and/or very deep pockets. It takes a LOT of work to get a mid fifties F100 to handle that much power, and even more to get a Jimmy blower to have bearable street manners. By the time you build that motor and tune it down enough to be street drivable and dependable you would be money and HP ahead to buy a coyote crate engine.
 
  #18  
Old 02-25-2014, 10:23 AM
CruzerDog's Avatar
CruzerDog
CruzerDog is offline
Freshman User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
where in CA are you ?

many swap meets coming up Stockton - Pleasanton - Sacramento

talking with sellers is the best way to learn face to face about values
 
  #19  
Old 02-25-2014, 01:35 PM
arctic y block's Avatar
arctic y block
arctic y block is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Island Southeast Alaska
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by AXracer
(on a recent episode of Counting Cars they did a build on a 55 F100 for a 60K bill, an average cost for a custom build.

Is that the White Buzzard Truck with the blue flames and scallops? Retired
couple pulling a camper around the country with it. They are members here.
I think there user name has to do with buzzards.

Originally Posted by AXracer
Seriously? drive it on the street? I hope you have a whole lot of high performance experience and/or very deep pockets. It takes a LOT of work to get a mid fifties F100 to handle that much power, and even more to get a Jimmy blower to have bearable street manners. By the time you build that motor and tune it down enough to be street drivable and dependable you would be money and HP ahead to buy a coyote crate engine.
I just read a thread on here about a sale on Ford racing Coyote's with the
$1500 electronics and shipping included for like $7500.
 
  #20  
Old 02-25-2014, 01:56 PM
old_dan's Avatar
old_dan
old_dan is offline
Fleet Mechanic

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
One more post and you'll have the minimum.

Welcome to the forum! Charlie can point you in the right direction. Axracer has given you some excellent advice. If the cab corners or the floors are rusted through, count on a lot of work for the repairs. If you can get a California barn find with no rust, you'll be able to focus your efforts on building your dream engine!

Keep up posted....and post pics of trucks that you look at. Some of the guys on this forum can spot a mix & match truck from a bad photo. Once in a while we see trucks with a non-correct year model cab, or bed.

Farmers apparently used to love to weld parts together back in the day....that's a good thing to avoid.

Where in CA are you located?

Dan
 
  #21  
Old 02-25-2014, 07:10 PM
classic55ford's Avatar
classic55ford
classic55ford is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bjmayberry2
First off Welcome to FTE. Just one more post and you'll have 5 posts, then you can count down the days?

I agree with the $$$ AX was discussing above but that's for a finished project. You can buy a no power train truck, throw a CROWN VIC or Mark VIII power train in it and drive for under $5,000 (if you can do the work yourself). Of course that's a truck in whatever condition you bought it (not pretty) with no paint, stock steering and drum brakes but a driver. Then build the truck of your dreams while time, money and your abilities permit. AX has a great post here on FTE about making a truck plan.

In answer to your original question (If all the parts are there) $1500 to $2500 looks like what their asking in Southern CA for a complete (less power train) 53-56 small back window F100.
Thanks pal would you guys believe I just found the page 2 button lol
 
  #22  
Old 02-25-2014, 07:14 PM
classic55ford's Avatar
classic55ford
classic55ford is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by AXracer
Seriously? drive it on the street? I hope you have a whole lot of high performance experience and/or very deep pockets. It takes a LOT of work to get a mid fifties F100 to handle that much power, and even more to get a Jimmy blower to have bearable street manners. By the time you build that motor and tune it down enough to be street drivable and dependable you would be money and HP ahead to buy a coyote crate engine.
not crazy experience like 9 seconds or lower but I've owned 10 second vehicles dang near most of my life I drove slow now the 460 blower is only an idea not set in stone as of yet and money my pockets ain't that deep lol it'll take some time for sure but that's the rewarding part imo
 
  #23  
Old 02-25-2014, 07:16 PM
classic55ford's Avatar
classic55ford
classic55ford is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by old_dan
One more post and you'll have the minimum.

Welcome to the forum! Charlie can point you in the right direction. Axracer has given you some excellent advice. If the cab corners or the floors are rusted through, count on a lot of work for the repairs. If you can get a California barn find with no rust, you'll be able to focus your efforts on building your dream engine!

Keep up posted....and post pics of trucks that you look at. Some of the guys on this forum can spot a mix & match truck from a bad photo. Once in a while we see trucks with a non-correct year model cab, or bed.

Farmers apparently used to love to weld parts together back in the day....that's a good thing to avoid.

Where in CA are you located?

Dan
Thank you for that info that's really important info and I'm in covina pal
 
  #24  
Old 03-01-2014, 10:12 PM
classic55ford's Avatar
classic55ford
classic55ford is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by AXracer
Seriously? drive it on the street? I hope you have a whole lot of high performance experience and/or very deep pockets. It takes a LOT of work to get a mid fifties F100 to handle that much power, and even more to get a Jimmy blower to have bearable street manners. By the time you build that motor and tune it down enough to be street drivable and dependable you would be money and HP ahead to buy a coyote crate engine.
You are so right I've been looking into it and a coyote is perfect for what I'm looking for. If I go with a donor car how much modification would be needed if possible for the suspension of a 2012 mustang gt with the coyote 5.0 to fit into the 55 f100 I don't know anything about suspension btw guys but I'm a fast learner
 
  #25  
Old 03-02-2014, 10:23 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer
AXracer is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,844
Received 53 Likes on 34 Posts
Originally Posted by classic55ford
You are so right I've been looking into it and a coyote is perfect for what I'm looking for. If I go with a donor car how much modification would be needed if possible for the suspension of a 2012 mustang gt with the coyote 5.0 to fit into the 55 f100 I don't know anything about suspension btw guys but I'm a fast learner
Sorry, but nothing from the mustang suspension would be useable under your truck.
The Mustang is unibody construction with strut front suspension and the rear axle is too narrow.
PS good luck finding a 2012 Mustang with Coyote useable as a donor. You would be less out of pocket buying a crate Coyote and tranny from Ford. You can buy a stand alone computer and wiring harness. There are a couple people on here putting in Coyotes.
 
  #26  
Old 03-02-2014, 10:34 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer
AXracer is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,844
Received 53 Likes on 34 Posts
You have enough posts now to use the search function, it's in the center of the blue band at the top of each page. Click on it, then select advanced search from the drop down menu. Here you can put in search terms, search on a member name, and/or a specific forum.
For your reading pleasure, also click on articles v and drill down through for articles on suspension swaps, rear axle choices other interesting information.
 
  #27  
Old 03-02-2014, 01:52 PM
das54's Avatar
das54
das54 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
"just found the page 2 button" - lol - sounds like me. Anyway, for a 10 sec truck you should find just the cab and doors, buy a completed chassis and all fiberglass front end and that $7500 Coyote engine. You could fab a box and buy the 3" wider fiberglass fenders. These trucks stock weigh about 2500 on the front axle and 1500 on the rear - I don't know much about drag racing but I doubt that works well for 10 sec 1/4s. But your idea isn't impossible. These guys do it. Roadkill Hot Rod Drag week. Well, some of them do. oops, sorry, cover photo is one of those ch%$#ys.
 
  #28  
Old 03-02-2014, 02:31 PM
arctic y block's Avatar
arctic y block
arctic y block is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Island Southeast Alaska
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
That's a sweet 57 Belair. Although it handled like chit and was way top heavy and to narrow
for it's weight and height. Prolly why Ford and others beat the pants off them in 1957
ya think?

The 57 Ford was prolly the best handling stock car of it's day. I loved the ones I had.
And would love to have another as a daily go to town car. Although the 55 Town Sedan I sold a year or so ago was a great riding and handling boat. But then again compared
to the 57 Ford it was top heavy. The shoe box's even handled better. Prolly the weight
of the flat motor. They sure would spin out easy.

I love the opening scene of "Thunder Road" when Robert Michem does a roll over turn around
with the Feds and his rear bumper chasing him in a 57 Chev.
Wish I could link to that first few minutes for us.
 
  #29  
Old 03-02-2014, 02:47 PM
52 Merc's Avatar
52 Merc
52 Merc is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Burbank, WA
Posts: 13,920
Received 2,450 Likes on 1,397 Posts
I think that Chevy may have lost a half second just in chassis twist.
 
  #30  
Old 03-02-2014, 02:54 PM
das54's Avatar
das54
das54 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 859
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
It lost more than that - check it out at 24:20.
 


Quick Reply: new f100 enthusiast 1 question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:27 AM.