Lighting issues
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Pasadena, Ca
Lighting issues
I have put this off for some time. But reading other lighting threads, guess i will jump in. I know that my blink cam is not working, when i signal left, i have to kind of gently push the handle back up a bit to get the dash light and front bulb to blink. Im ok with that right now. My issue is:
1) dash lights- not illuminating
1) dash lights- not illuminating
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
When you get back out to the truck, turn the headlight switch on, turn the **** counter clockwise until just before it clicks into place to turn the dome light on, and measure the voltage on BOTH sides of the dash illumination fuse. Report your results.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Your multimeter measurements support your claim that the fuse is blown. Next you need to figure out what is causing the instrument lighting circuit to pull too much current. The most common cause for this is someone installing a radio incorrectly - the BLUE with RED stripe wire (dash lighting) paired in the radio power connector is often mistaken for ground. The dash lights find a sneak path to ground through the speakers, and the fuse blows.
That's just the most common cause; if that's not the case for you, the root problem is the same. You need to find the short to ground.
That's just the most common cause; if that's not the case for you, the root problem is the same. You need to find the short to ground.
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Postmaster
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From: Pasadena, Ca
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MSEE
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Pasadena, Ca
Well, i dont want to interrupt like everyone else, lol.
Disconnect the red/blue and connect it with the illumination on the radio harmess.
Get a wire with loop connector and ground it under a bolt
Is there a better ground that i can tap into?
Disconnect the red/blue and connect it with the illumination on the radio harmess.
Get a wire with loop connector and ground it under a bolt
Is there a better ground that i can tap into?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Sorry, I thought I read the word "Next?" in your post. Your steps are correct with the exception that the wire of interest is BLUE with RED stripe. Any screw that threads into unpainted metal behind the dash is fine for ground. There should be a support bracket nearby under which you can sneak a ring terminal.
In the future, when discussing electrical issues, it's in your best interest to describe any work or modifications you've done up front. That's actually true for anything, not just electrical.
In the future, when discussing electrical issues, it's in your best interest to describe any work or modifications you've done up front. That's actually true for anything, not just electrical.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
There are different types of bulbs. The ones that lock into the instrument cluster are 194. The one that lights up the ***** on the left, or the heater controls are different.
Dim bulbs could be a number of things: headlight switch rheostat in poor condition, corroded connectors, etc.
Dim bulbs could be a number of things: headlight switch rheostat in poor condition, corroded connectors, etc.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2013
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Likes: 5
From: Pasadena, Ca
There was a loose bulb.
And i apologize. I never thought the stereo would be the issue because i hooked it up about six months ago. The dash lights never worked, the dome light didnt work when i bought it a year ago. I ran a hot from the battery.
And i apologize. I never thought the stereo would be the issue because i hooked it up about six months ago. The dash lights never worked, the dome light didnt work when i bought it a year ago. I ran a hot from the battery.