1959 292 Y-block questions
#1
1959 292 Y-block questions
First off, I have never owned a Y-block. I have built many Windsor and SBC engines.
I just bought a 59 F100. 292 and a 4 speed. The engine has headers that aren't hooked to an exhaust. I put a new carb, and fuel pump on it. Tonight, I put seafoam in the oil, and started it. I ran it for 10 min, letting it warm up. Its runs like it has a dead cylinder/miss.
The engine starts right up. No white smoke coming out of dipstick or oil fill. I am not sure on engine history, I just got the truck.
My issue is, I have an oily spray out of both exhaust pipes off the headers...
Fact is, it might simply be bad wires and cylinders not fireing. I need to learn about the PCV system. I have a hose coming out of the block it looks kinked by the fuel pump....
My worry is, these engine are prone to rocker arm issues. I understand it to be on the right bank though, this is pretty even.
I just bought a 59 F100. 292 and a 4 speed. The engine has headers that aren't hooked to an exhaust. I put a new carb, and fuel pump on it. Tonight, I put seafoam in the oil, and started it. I ran it for 10 min, letting it warm up. Its runs like it has a dead cylinder/miss.
The engine starts right up. No white smoke coming out of dipstick or oil fill. I am not sure on engine history, I just got the truck.
My issue is, I have an oily spray out of both exhaust pipes off the headers...
Fact is, it might simply be bad wires and cylinders not fireing. I need to learn about the PCV system. I have a hose coming out of the block it looks kinked by the fuel pump....
My worry is, these engine are prone to rocker arm issues. I understand it to be on the right bank though, this is pretty even.
#3
Has the engine been sitting for any length of time? You may want to pull the valve covers and see if you have any stuck valves or bent/missing push rods.
How is the compression? Check the points, etc? Timing? Start with the basics.
Without knowing more about the engine besides having open headers and a new carb and fuel pump it is hard to make suggestions... Sorry, the Crystal Ball thing isn't working.
How is the compression? Check the points, etc? Timing? Start with the basics.
Without knowing more about the engine besides having open headers and a new carb and fuel pump it is hard to make suggestions... Sorry, the Crystal Ball thing isn't working.
#4
I have no history on the engine, I just bought the truck. It runs like it has a miss. The original carb was a real mess, so I put a Holley 2300 on it which made a huge difference. This engine starts right up, It had fuel dumping into the engine from the old carb, which might explain the black water fluid blowing out of both headers during warm up.
It runs like it has 2 wires crossed, is the best way to explain it, I am gonna check the compression, and change the plugs, and wires. Wires on further inspection look like hell. Cap rotor and points look new.
I know these engine are plagued with right bank oiling system issues.
There is a hose coming out of the side of the engine, right near the fuel pump. I assumed it was a PCV system of some type. Road Draft ect
It runs like it has 2 wires crossed, is the best way to explain it, I am gonna check the compression, and change the plugs, and wires. Wires on further inspection look like hell. Cap rotor and points look new.
I know these engine are plagued with right bank oiling system issues.
There is a hose coming out of the side of the engine, right near the fuel pump. I assumed it was a PCV system of some type. Road Draft ect
#5
I pulled the right rocker cover off. cylinder 4 and 5 intake valves fell down in the valley so I pulled the intake and valley cover, I found a surprisingly clean engine. No sludge in valve cover, the right rocker area had oil. I also found the 5 intake pushrod off as well.
On inspection, they are bent... Is this an issue caused by another issue? or perhaps someone adjusted the valves to tight. I am familiar with Solid lifter cams. I know they are not forgiving. I am not familiar with the Y block. Any help, I really appreciate.
On inspection, they are bent... Is this an issue caused by another issue? or perhaps someone adjusted the valves to tight. I am familiar with Solid lifter cams. I know they are not forgiving. I am not familiar with the Y block. Any help, I really appreciate.
#6
Many times, bent intake pushrods are a result of an engine that was run with bad old gas. If they aren't bent too bad, reinstall them and turn the engine over by hand and watch the valve for smooth movement. If they are sticking, it will be best to pull the heads for a thorough cleaning and, possibly, rebuild. Do not reuse those pushrods to run the engine! Get new ones. If the truck will sit for more than a month or two, add stabilizer to the gas and make sure the tank is full.
Since it runs , the other valves are probably adjusted correctly and it is probably not a result of bad adjustment. However, now is a good time to verify this. Check the valve adjustment.
Since it runs , the other valves are probably adjusted correctly and it is probably not a result of bad adjustment. However, now is a good time to verify this. Check the valve adjustment.
#7
Many times, bent intake pushrods are a result of an engine that was run with bad old gas. If they aren't bent too bad, reinstall them and turn the engine over by hand and watch the valve for smooth movement. If they are sticking, it will be best to pull the heads for a thorough cleaning and, possibly, rebuild. Do not reuse those pushrods to run the engine! Get new ones. If the truck will sit for more than a month or two, add stabilizer to the gas and make sure the tank is full.
Since it runs , the other valves are probably adjusted correctly and it is probably not a result of bad adjustment. However, now is a good time to verify this. Check the valve adjustment.
Since it runs , the other valves are probably adjusted correctly and it is probably not a result of bad adjustment. However, now is a good time to verify this. Check the valve adjustment.
I used a block of wood and wood rod, moving the rocker arm to open and close the valve. I wondered about a stuck valve. The inside of the engine has an old gas smell like the bad gas in the tank. When I got the truck I seafoamed the oil and fogged the carb hoping to loosen up deposits.... I know this truck sat, but I have no history. I have had possession less then a week...
I just ordered gaskets and pushrods... I called the pan under the intake a valley pan, but the parts guy said it was the Pushrod cover.... Kind of the same set up as the old RamAir Pontiacs.
Thanks again for replying
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#8
You'll probably hear most Y Block people calling it a valley pan or valley cover but pushrod cover is also technically correct. Semantics.
#9
Drain all of that gas, get rid of it and put some fresh gas in it. It may still start and run the truck but it is no good to you now and I'm almost certain now that bad gas is the reason for the bent pushrods. Since it was run with that, before you start it up again, make sure every valve is operating properly.
You'll probably hear most Y Block people calling it a valley pan or valley cover but pushrod cover is also technically correct. Semantics.
You'll probably hear most Y Block people calling it a valley pan or valley cover but pushrod cover is also technically correct. Semantics.
While I have this so far apart, I am gonna or would like to clean the oil passages to the right side. I have been reading Tim McMasters website. I am half tempted to pull it all the way apart, but, I would like to drive it this summer, so maybe it will be next winters project.
What color was the engine from the factory?
#10
If it has the original block, service blocks and 1961 and later blocks have no hole in the block for a road draft tube and had a PCV that connected to a part coming off the rear of the valley cover.
#11
There are (very) long threads, at least under the '61-'66 truck forum, about engine colors. It appears a '59 truck Y Block would have likely been yellow from the factory.
Have you confirmed, based on the block number, that you have a '59 truck Y Block? My one-owner '61 F-350 (owned since new by a family business on my wife's side) had a '59 Y Block in it by the time I arrived on the scene 20 years ago. See John Mummert's info-filled Y Block site for listings of block and head numbers. (By the by, the '59 engine in my '61 was light green, either repainted or possibly an original color for a Ford passenger car. I'm replacing it with an appropriate '61 engine, painted black as is likely the original color for truck engines from '60-ish through '65. And just wait until you read about valve cover colors: a '61 292 truck definitely had Ford red covers, unless they were argent!)
Best of luck. These Y Blocks -- I'm new to them, too -- seem versatile, dependable, and loveable!
Steve
Have you confirmed, based on the block number, that you have a '59 truck Y Block? My one-owner '61 F-350 (owned since new by a family business on my wife's side) had a '59 Y Block in it by the time I arrived on the scene 20 years ago. See John Mummert's info-filled Y Block site for listings of block and head numbers. (By the by, the '59 engine in my '61 was light green, either repainted or possibly an original color for a Ford passenger car. I'm replacing it with an appropriate '61 engine, painted black as is likely the original color for truck engines from '60-ish through '65. And just wait until you read about valve cover colors: a '61 292 truck definitely had Ford red covers, unless they were argent!)
Best of luck. These Y Blocks -- I'm new to them, too -- seem versatile, dependable, and loveable!
Steve
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