5.8L Smog Pump Delete with Pics
#31
11-28-2015, 09:52 PM
Senior User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Manzanita, OR
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My smog pump was starting to make death bearing howling noises. It had been disconnected by the previous owner anyway. The local Orielly's let me try a few belts on in the parking lot. I forgot which one I ended up using. My 351W looks way different, but simply short belting it proved very straight forward.
Oh, and we are in the sticks so no DEQ nonsense for any of my vehicles, thank flying spaghetti monster. None of my cars can make it through.
Oh, and we are in the sticks so no DEQ nonsense for any of my vehicles, thank flying spaghetti monster. None of my cars can make it through.
#32
09-22-2016, 05:04 PM
#33
09-22-2016, 05:28 PM
#34
09-22-2016, 07:42 PM
#36
06-01-2017, 02:54 PM
New User
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3 years belated thanks!
#37
06-01-2017, 06:05 PM
You're supposed to ignore the dozens of helpful threads that provide the exact info you're looking for and start a new thread asking the same questions! Duhhhhh.
#38
06-05-2017, 07:12 AM
New User
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I removed the smog pump and added the Proform 68110 bracket. I also got the Dorman HELP AC Bypass Pulley 34150 in order to get the larger pulley and swap with the Proform. Everything worked perfectly!
However, I do have a 'Check Engine' light now, but I don't know why. I plugged the open valve that was left from the smog pump delete. Only the pump and hoses were removed; nothing else was tampered with.
The truck runs great.
However, I do have a 'Check Engine' light now, but I don't know why. I plugged the open valve that was left from the smog pump delete. Only the pump and hoses were removed; nothing else was tampered with.
The truck runs great.
#39
06-21-2017, 07:02 AM
Pu
Everyone seems to ask this question, but I don't see any picture threads so I thought I'd share what I did on my engine.
I have a 5.8L in a truck that had severe rust damage to the manifolds and air injection tubes. I replaced the manifolds, but since truck is exempt from emissions testing due to GVW I chose to remove the pump and tubes when rebuilding the truck.
Parts that I used:
Proform 68110 5.0/5.8L smog pump eliminator bracket and pulley from JEGS $55
Ford 5.8L AC delete idler pulley $15
Here is the stock air pump.
First I removed the pulley to get to the through mounting bolt.
Mounted on the truck with stock pump still in place.
Pump removed after removing through bolt and back bolt.
Proform bracket installed.
AC delete idler pulley installed.
This combination with the AC pulley allows you to reuse the stock 5.8L serpentine belt with no guessing lengths or dealing with slipping. If you use the Mustang pulley that comes with the kit your stock belt will be too long.
It's just that easy. I left the air diverter valve and solenoids in place on top of the engine and all electrical connections and vacuum lines hooked up. I removed the air tubes from the rear of the diverter valve and manifolds and plugged the rear of the diverter valve to keep dirt out of it. That's it.
I have a 5.8L in a truck that had severe rust damage to the manifolds and air injection tubes. I replaced the manifolds, but since truck is exempt from emissions testing due to GVW I chose to remove the pump and tubes when rebuilding the truck.
Parts that I used:
Proform 68110 5.0/5.8L smog pump eliminator bracket and pulley from JEGS $55
Ford 5.8L AC delete idler pulley $15
Here is the stock air pump.
First I removed the pulley to get to the through mounting bolt.
Mounted on the truck with stock pump still in place.
Pump removed after removing through bolt and back bolt.
Proform bracket installed.
AC delete idler pulley installed.
This combination with the AC pulley allows you to reuse the stock 5.8L serpentine belt with no guessing lengths or dealing with slipping. If you use the Mustang pulley that comes with the kit your stock belt will be too long.
It's just that easy. I left the air diverter valve and solenoids in place on top of the engine and all electrical connections and vacuum lines hooked up. I removed the air tubes from the rear of the diverter valve and manifolds and plugged the rear of the diverter valve to keep dirt out of it. That's it.
#40
06-21-2017, 07:31 AM
New User
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#42
04-17-2018, 01:34 PM
#43
08-07-2018, 05:30 PM
I hate to bring up such an old thread but here it goes...
I have a 1992 F150 5.8L 4x4 w/ an E4OD. The previous own ripped out most of this secondary air system. I have the smog pump remaining but I do not think it is pumping to anything. Anyways I am chasing check engine light 311 on my truck related to the TAD and TAB solenoids. I have replaced each solenoid and ran vacuum to the lower port on each. The top ports are both capped off. The code per my internet searches and chilton manual is thermactor system in operative, right side. With no thermactor system or diverter valve to connect to, how do I fool the computer into thinking the system is operating? Note my EGR system is hooked up and working. I previously had codes for this but was able to reconnect it. I do not know if the back of the heads are plugged properly. Can you do this delete on a 92 with EEC-IV and not get a CEL? The truck does not have CATs, just 3" pipes to cherry bomb mufflers with a 2" bung between for the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is also new. While unrelated the IAC and TPS are also brand new (was fixing other codes).
I have a 1992 F150 5.8L 4x4 w/ an E4OD. The previous own ripped out most of this secondary air system. I have the smog pump remaining but I do not think it is pumping to anything. Anyways I am chasing check engine light 311 on my truck related to the TAD and TAB solenoids. I have replaced each solenoid and ran vacuum to the lower port on each. The top ports are both capped off. The code per my internet searches and chilton manual is thermactor system in operative, right side. With no thermactor system or diverter valve to connect to, how do I fool the computer into thinking the system is operating? Note my EGR system is hooked up and working. I previously had codes for this but was able to reconnect it. I do not know if the back of the heads are plugged properly. Can you do this delete on a 92 with EEC-IV and not get a CEL? The truck does not have CATs, just 3" pipes to cherry bomb mufflers with a 2" bung between for the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is also new. While unrelated the IAC and TPS are also brand new (was fixing other codes).
#44
08-07-2018, 05:39 PM
The only way you can kill the 311 is to be able to modify the tune in the computer. While it is throwing a code, I'd guess it isn't impacting anything.
I always advocate a catalytic converter, you can get high flow and it provides some back pressure, which you need. You aren't nearly maxing out the 3" exhaust based on the horsepower you are putting out
I always advocate a catalytic converter, you can get high flow and it provides some back pressure, which you need. You aren't nearly maxing out the 3" exhaust based on the horsepower you are putting out
#45
08-09-2018, 10:23 AM
I would like to avoid an exhuast or emissions conversation. But, everyone who has removed this system us just driving around with Check Engine Light 311 on? I just provided a complete picture of the state of my system to find out if I made an error that caused it or if it is another issue entirely that is triggering the check engine light. I also get 512 (i think), the one a bout KAM failed, which may mean I have issues with my PCM.
Do others have 311 on after removing this system?
Do others have 311 on after removing this system?