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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Question for dark siders

 
  #16  
Old 02-22-2014, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Pappys53 View Post
I have checked all the vacuum lines and they are ok. I rechecked pump pressure and it is around 8 1/2 psi. I did notice it was wet around the accelerator pump gasket. I think it is starving for gas. I start it up and it will run fine for a few minutes then it will start to run rough then die. I am thinking I need to pull the carb off and pull the front bowl off. I think there is a needle or float problem.
I'm not sure if you have the room but I have often removed the front bowl without removing the carb.
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:11 PM
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I removed the carb and have removed the front bowl. I do not seen anything that looks wrong. I tighten the screws down some more on the accelerator pump housing. Is there any measurement to check the float setting? How do you check to see if the float is damaged or not? It is the plastic kind.
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Pappys53 View Post
I removed the carb and have removed the front bowl. I do not seen anything that looks wrong. I tighten the screws down some more on the accelerator pump housing. Is there any measurement to check the float setting? How do you check to see if the float is damaged or not? It is the plastic kind.
Yes, at the site hole. See video in link 12 below.
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:33 PM
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What should the fuel pump pressure be? I have an inline fuel filter and it was already located between the tank and the pump. Should it be after the pump before the carb? So there is not measurement to start with before installing the fuel bowls to start with?
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:55 PM
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No more than 6.5 psi
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Pappys53 View Post
I have an inline fuel filter and it was already located between the tank and the pump. Should it be after the pump before the carb? So there is not measurement to start with before installing the fuel bowls to start with?
I'm not sure that it makes a difference as long as the flow is correct. Most that I have seen are between the pump and the carb. That is not stock as they relied on the fuel bowl on the pump for separation of water and dirt.
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:53 PM
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What will happen if the pump has too much pressure? Again the truck was running good after the rebuild. It started acting up after about 3 or 4 days.
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:38 PM
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I would look for a ghost named Henery that is messing with you for putting a Chevy in his truck .
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:57 PM
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I use a can of aerosol starting fluid and spray it around all the gaskets and vacuum lines while the engine is running...anyplace where there is a vacuum leak will cause the engine RPM to go up. Old indian trick....
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Pappys53 View Post
Is there any measurement to check the float setting? How do you check to see if the float is damaged or not? It is the plastic kind.
Usually, there are two float measurements. One to start the fuel flowing and the other to stop it. You'll need to find the specs for these two measurements along with the surfaces the measurements are taken from. Usually, you'll have to bend a couple of tangs on the float. Do not pry against the needle valve.

To check for a damaged float, remove the float(usually by pushing a "nail" (due to the fact they often have a head on one end) out of it's hinge. Look for cracks or fuel leaking out of the float. Shake float to feel/hear fuel inside of float. Submerse float in water to see if any air escapes from it.
You never did answer if there was black smoke coming from the tail pipe? You can also pull a plug to see if it's wet from gas to determine if it's running way too rich.
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Pappys53 View Post
What will happen if the pump has too much pressure? Again the truck was running good after the rebuild. It started acting up after about 3 or 4 days.
The pressure might overcome the ability of the float to cut off the gas at the correct level thus making it run rich.

Is the idle screw turned in enough? Is the idle mixture screw set correctly?
 
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by carnut122 View Post
The pressure might overcome the ability of the float to cut off the gas at the correct level thus making it run rich.

Is the idle screw turned in enough? Is the idle mixture screw set correctly?
That's a good point. It's possible to have the throttle plates completely closed and make up for it with the idle screws. That won't be consistent or work well. Make sure the blades are open a little and set the mix screws. If you have too much timing, it can also raise the idle to where the blades are completely shut.

PS -- on this style Holley, I don't think there are float measurements at all; as shown in the video in #12, you set it with the engine running.
 
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:54 AM
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No black smoke
 
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
That's a good point. It's possible to have the throttle plates completely closed and make up for it with the idle screws. That won't be consistent or work well. Make sure the blades are open a little and set the mix screws. If you have too much timing, it can also raise the idle to where the blades are completely shut.

PS -- on this style Holley, I don't think there are float measurements at all; as shown in the video in #12, you set it with the engine running.
Yes, Ross is right and you also don't have to bend any tangs. The floats are externally adjustable.

Originally Posted by Pappys53 View Post
Again the truck was running good after the rebuild. It started acting up after about 3 or 4 days.
This sounds like dirt in the fuel system probably from the tank. Even though you put on a new filter it may be clogging up with dirt. Are you using the original fuel tank?

The picture is of the bottom of my carb (not a 4160 but the principle is the same). If there is or was any signs of dirt I would recommend getting a can of carb cleaner, one with the plastic straw on the end, and spray through all the ports and passages in the carb. This means taking it off and apart again but it sounds like it is clear after you disassemble it and runs OK then dirt is re-clogging the passageways in the carb and/or the fuel filter after it runs for 3-4 days. Obviously concentrate on the front primary circuits. I would even remove the idle adjustment screws and spray cleaner through them until it comes out of the idle ports in the throttle bores. You may also need another new filter. Before doing that remove the sending unit and check the bottom of the tank, or you can drain the tank but when you do use a paper coffee filter in the funnel to see what kind of dirt comes out. If it is a lot you may have to take the tank out and have it flushed clean at a radiator shop.
 
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Old 03-28-2014, 05:00 PM
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So I rebuilt the carb. Still not sure what model I have. It has a number on the front of the bowl of 80457-2 3171. On top of the bowl is R7809. I have been told the power valve has blown(I knew there was reason for my dislike of Holley carbs). I bought one at O'Reilly's which was a 3.5. Was not sure what was in it. When I pulled the fuel bowl off I found it has a 6.5. I did not keep the old one and did not think to look at it. My problem is since I don't know if I bought the right rebuild kit, I don't know which size is the right one.
 

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