Easy there Tonto. I never said it had to be Motorcraft. I was merely pointing out that while the guy was hoping that the dealer was using synthetic oil, most dealers don't even use Motorcraft oil which you would expect from a Ford dealer let alone synthetic.

Please proceed to the next post in which you wish to discredit me!

 

I'm sorry Matt, that was never my intent. I just thought the meme was funny and wanted to point out that the API spec is what matters. That's all.

 

Hug it out

 

I'm not at a proper computer so I can't site the source of information but I suspect it is readily available out there. I use the term "break-down" a bit loosely. From a lubrication stand-point, conventional oils do keep the metal surfaces apart past the 240 degree level. The break-down I am referring to is the first stage where conventional oils begin to change. One of the components of conventional oils, parafins are the first to oxidize and vaporize and eventually show up as varnish mostly on non-wear surfaces. We've all seen oil varnish on the inside of valve covers, etc. True synthetic oils do not have any parafins or miscellaneous content so there are no such effects until the base itself begins to oxidize at much higher temperatures.

We all know the low and high temperature advantages of synthetic oils, but there are also benefits due to the lack of non-lubricative components within the conventional oils.

Sent from my mobile device

 

I am going up to Big Bear from San Diego this weekend. Will be pulling my 7,000 lbs camper as usual.

I just came back from the Ford dealer. I tried to get some sort or recording device to prove oil is getting too hot too quick. They said to not worry and stop looking at the oil temp.

So this time I am going to drive it without trying to avoid high temps. I will post up results here in about 10 days.....

 

I run pure synthetic, so I don't worry about 240 degree oil temps. That's about where I end up towing my 8K pound travel trailer at 60 mph, 90 degrees outside, up a 6% incline. Anything above 250 and I would slow down, although that temp is probably fine too. Only had to do that once going up an 8% grade.

I have a race car and its oil temps live in the 250-260 range, and I have 5K+ racing miles on that engine. Synthetic plus frequent oil changes and it still makes the same power that it did on day 1.

 

I hate to say it, and don't take it the wrong way, but it's stuff like this why manufacturers stopped putting real gauges in cars and trucks. In years past gauges used to actually show temperatures, but because people would bring their cars and trucks in to complain about fluctuating temperatures.

There is nothing wrong with your truck. 240 degrees isn't even approaching a dangerously warm level for oil temp. Ford doesn't publish maximum specs, but in lots of applications temps over 300 degrees aren't uncommon. Your truck *will* show an overheat and reduce power LONG before you get to truly dangerous temperatures. The API CJ-4 oil standard requires a certain sustained viscosity at 150 degrees Celsius. That's 302 degrees Fahrenheit. Yes, the oil is required to perform to spec a full 60 degrees warmer than your truck is getting.

www.apicj-4.org

Stop worrying and enjoy your truck.

 

Drewtk, if it makes you feel any better......I had a water pump go out on me in the middle of nowhere. My engine would not let me run it when I hit 249F if I remember correctly. The point is, the engine shuts down before you damage it. I've been there and drove another 60,000 miles without issue.

 

More than likely you were shut down for warm coolant temperatures rather than oil temps. 249° is warm, but not dangerously so. If your coolant temp gets that hot you're approaching dangerous territory though.

I wish they would let us see all available data on the gauge screen. I believe this thread is a good example why they don't.

 

I have hit 248F oil temps with no loss of power.

 

Note:*When a high engine temperature condition is present, the engine may exhibit a lack of power concern without a DTC due to the derate strategies designed for engine temperature protection.

Lack/Loss Of Power: Acceleration, CruiseRuns Rough: Acceleration, CruiseMisses: Idle, Acceleration, CruiseBuck/Jerk: Acceleration, Cruise, DecelerationHesitation/Stumble: AccelerationSurge: Acceleration, CruisePoor Fuel Economy

Access the PCM and monitor the following temperature PIDS with the scan tool:

ECT — Derate will occur when the engine coolant temperature is greater than 109°C (225°F)EOT — Derate will occur when the oil temperature is greater than 125°C (257°F)FRT — Derate will occur when temperature is greater than 80°C (176°F) These are the real numbers that will put truck in de rate these are straight of wsm cause I'm ford diesel tech work on these everyday as for your concern if your trucks are early 2010 or 2011 build 6.7s we had problems where in the upper oil plan there is a restrictor in oil galleys that directs oil to the oil cooler sometimes those restrictor would dislodge and would cause the oil to bypass the oil cooler which I turn eot would run hot and unfortunately pcm will not set mil light or code will just de rate power until see temp drop then it will restore power only fix for restrictor is to replace upper oil pan if you have any other questions feel free to ask

 

Getting a little off topic, is the oil Ford uses for the 6.7 synthetic, or a synthetic blend, conventional...? I purchased the maint. plan with the truck, it specifies that it covers synthetic oil, wondering if I would need to push that with (using synthetic) dealership when servicing.

 

No offense taken! Ever! I wouldn't be posting here if I was worried about that! The only reason I started to talk about this is because I asked. The dealers. Service managers to be precise.

One of them said ford does not want to see sustained oil temps over 220F. The other said not over 240F. When I said truck(s) (I have two 6.7) are getting high oil temps, one of the service managers said let's put a recorder on it to see what you are doing.

Today, when I said let's put the recorder on, he back pedaled and said: "No, you won't hurt the motor no matter what. Stop worrying."

So, I will!!!

But since I have blown up four 6.0 turbos, the jury is still out.... I will let you guys know...

 

Derate will occur when which temperature is over 80°C? That's kind of confusing.

Nope. No synthetic oil required. The factory spec CJ-4 oil in any of the recommended grades. 5w40 is a full-synthetic grade, but the others can come in dino or synthetic. No reason to spend more for synthetic oil; the OLM is calibrated to regular dino oil.

Wow, sounds to me like you're getting some misinformation from the dealer. One of my favorite sayings is "In God we trust, all others bring DATA!" Pstroke67 did just that and cited his sources, and it sounds like the folks at the dealer just guessed. Sounds like the folks you spoke with at the dealer didn't know what they were talking about.

Four turbos...you have some lousy luck!

 

I have felt this derate before. If you are just concentrating on the road and not paying close attention, you won't notice it. On a recent camping trip, I noticed that at times the truck would pull small hills in 6th gear with no problem and at other times, the same type of hill would require a good bit of effort in 6th gear. Once I noticed a perceived decrease in power, I started to pay closer attention to all of my temperatures to see what was the cause. Every time the truck started to feel sluggish, the ECT was above 223F on my Edge Insight. Once I made the correlation, I then started to watch ECT creep up on the harder pulls and sure enough you can feel the engine back off when it hits that magical temp!

It still amazes me that they don't have the fan kick in before they derate. My fan clutch does not engage until EOT over 240F. Once the fan clutch engages, the temps back off pretty quick. Maybe this is a parameter that the custom tuning guys can change. It would be nice to take advantage of the fan a little sooner on a long, hard pull!