Okay, you have been very helpful. Im hoping taking the starter out tomorrow works. Another question, could I have installed the pressure plate wrong onto the flywheel? I think it only goes on one way or so I thought. I just turned it til I had 6 bolt holes lined up and I know the clutch disc is in right bc it even said flywheel side on it. Im just throwing things out there in case I installed something wrong. I did take the engine block plate/spacer off, do you think I need to put spacers in between the motor and tranny to make up for that?

 

Not sure what you mean

 

The air pump is sometimes called the smog pump. It is belt driven off the main fan belt. When they go bad they often make a horrible metal-to-metal sound. At cold start up it is pumping air to the catalytic converter. When the engine warms up, about 5 minutes, a valve shuts this air off and it just pumps back into itself. This is often the time the go haywire and make lots of noise! Pull off the fan belt and spin the pulley on it and see what you got. You can bypass it with a shorter belt if you don't have to pass a smog test.

 

Well the starter wasn't the issue, removed it and is still making the sound. If I shut the truck off when its doing it and then start it back up it takes a minute or two to start rubbing again. As I was driving it the noise still went away when I was accelerating in gear and would automatically come back any time I wasn't accelerating or when I would coast or downshift. As for the smog pump its not it bc I got under and listened around it and it is definitely coming from the bellhousing area not from the front of the engine. Running out of things to check, have no idea what could be running. Will appreciate and consider any possible ideas though guys like you have been

 

Check for excessive crankshaft thrust endplay. With the engine shut off, take a prybar and try to move toward the front or the rear. Don't pry on the outside of the balancer, all you will see is the rubber moving.

 

I will check on that. What would this be a cause of or how would that make the metal grinding sound i am hearing. Is it possible that if the smog pump is bad the sound of it would be echoing back by the flywheel area? I have also been suggested that since i took the spacer/shield out between the engine and transmission that i need it back in there or put spacers in there for proper clearance between throwout bearing and pressure plate or for flywheel clearance. I am also going to try to bleed the clutch line again. I just am trying everything possible and will also check the thrust endplay and let you know the results.

 

They all have a little end play, but with that spacer gone if you have ANY your flywheel and possibly other stuff is going to be rubbing the bell housing. When you take it back apart to put the spacer back you will see what was going on.

 

I'm having the same problem with my 2005 Ford F150. Once the engine gets hot the flywheel is rubbing on the starter and only in idle and when the engine is decelerating. It goes away when I accelerate and it doesn't occur until the engine warms up. The transmission is an automatic also. I did pull the starter and noticed the top bolt was gone out of the three holding the starter on. So when I reinstalled the starter I installed all three bolts back in and the noise quieted somewhat but never did stop all together.

 

Hello FTE,
So I've got one for you all. I did a 7.3 idi solid flywheel conversion by Luk. The job went great but still couldn't get reverse to stop grinding when trying to engage. So I decided to replace the slave cylinder also, Well that did not go as well. Like an rookie I installed the fork on the wrong side of the bearing...went to start her up and chucked the fork off the assembly. I knew what happened the second I heard it, at this point i tried with fingers crossed to re-install the fork. I was able to install it but was unable to dis engage the clutch, I knew I must have damaged the diaphragm on the pressure plate. No noises present, and I ran it a while afterwards. So back out with the trans, damage was as I expected, got a knew kit from napa made by Valeo... not the same quality at all by comparison. No springs in the friction plate much cheesier diaphragm. Against my better judgment I installed it. When everything was reassembled I started the truck and the gear box sounded like hell. I was able to drive and shift but I can feel it as much as I hear it, and it gets worse with speed. Goes away mostly with the clutch depressed, but if the clutch is engaged even in neutral this hellish sound and grinding returns. So back out with the trans. I suspected a bad throw out bearing from the factory, even though I had inspected it before installation. Everything out and the flimsy little assembly looks fine including the bearing but I am now seeing a bit of damage on the front input shaft quill from when I chucked the fork. THE QUESTION: I'm wondering if the zf5-s42 quill comes out from the engine/bell housing side or from inside the trans? If it is from the inside, what are the odds I've loaded the input shaft bearing from the quick impact of the fork on the end of the quill? It is definitely pressed in, no flange or screw. I'm planning on getting the same luk components for reassembly as they seemed superior. Just trying to get some insight on this input shaft quill orientation, I would like to replace it if its from outside the trans but I'm more interested in whether I've loaded the input shaft bearing on the trans. Or any other advice that may help. Much appreciated.

 

Hello FTE,
So I've got one for you all. I did a 7.3 idi solid flywheel conversion by Luk. The job went great but still couldn't get reverse to stop grinding when trying to engage. So I decided to replace the slave cylinder also, Well that did not go as well. Like an rookie I installed the fork on the wrong side of the bearing...went to start her up and chucked the fork off the assembly. I knew what happened the second I heard it, at this point i tried with fingers crossed to re-install the fork. I was able to install it but was unable to dis engage the clutch, I knew I must have damaged the diaphragm on the pressure plate. No noises present, and I ran it a while afterwards. So back out with the trans, damage was as I expected, got a knew kit from napa made by Valeo... not the same quality at all by comparison. No springs in the friction plate much cheesier diaphragm. Against my better judgment I installed it. When everything was reassembled I started the truck and the gear box sounded like hell. I was able to drive and shift but I can feel it as much as I hear it, and it gets worse with speed. Goes away mostly with the clutch depressed, but if the clutch is engaged even in neutral this hellish sound and grinding returns. So back out with the trans. I suspected a bad throw out bearing from the factory, even though I had inspected it before installation. Everything out and the flimsy little assembly looks fine including the bearing but I am now seeing a bit of damage on the front input shaft quill from when I chucked the fork. THE QUESTION: I'm wondering if the zf5-s42 quill comes out from the engine/bell housing side or from inside the trans? If it is from the inside, what are the odds I've loaded the input shaft bearing from the quick impact of the fork on the end of the quill? It is definitely pressed in, no flange or screw. I'm planning on getting the same luk components for reassembly as they seemed superior. Just trying to get some insight on this input shaft quill orientation, I would like to replace it if its from outside the trans but I'm more interested in whether I've loaded the input shaft bearing on the trans. Or any other advice that may help. Much appreciated.