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94 351w 5.8 Weird No Start HELP

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  #16  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:43 PM
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lamp tester
 
  #17  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:44 PM
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being an auto mechanic by hobby and industrial mechanic by occupation this **** is driving me crazy.... well not driving gotta start before you drive haha
 
  #18  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:46 PM
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anyone with a volt meter procedure for the icm and ecm to throw on the table so I can get good concrete evidence instead of buzzed frustration ? lol
 
  #19  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:50 PM
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Check all your powers and grounds . for excess resistance and proper feed .
 
  #20  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jordonbond20
im leaning towards ecm because the problem occurred after a hard freeze and im getting a code 10 154 and none of those are diagnostic codes by both jumping the self test and with a code reader. talked to the po today and he said he did a motor swap to the Windsor and left the 302 ecm in. I know you are about to crucify me by saying that it was running prior so not the ecm but it could have been coming and the hard freeze forced moisture into the weathergaurd and shorted out a ground or something the only reason I haven't pulled it yet is because I want to troubleshoot it down to being at least 99 percent sure its the ecm before I tear it up :beersip
Exactly how cold is it, and has this truck ever been hard to start in the cold?
 
  #21  
Old 02-06-2014, 06:32 AM
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The code 10 is a space and is in all of KOEO tests before the codes start.
But the 154 does not look good for the PCM.
What kind of a coder reader did you use?

Also the 302 is a Windsor engine.
 
  #22  
Old 02-06-2014, 03:53 PM
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no never had a cold start issue and 351w anyone know if the pcm can be opened without damaging it and how? don't wanna sink 200 in a ecm if I tear it open and it checks out, I belive in troubleshooting not grabbing parts out a bag until its fixed
 
  #23  
Old 02-06-2014, 04:11 PM
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ok new symptom. trying to start its sputtering and about every five times I try it itll backfire once really loudly
 
  #24  
Old 02-09-2014, 11:25 PM
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ok guys heres where I am changed the timing gears and chain because of slack and missing teeth and changed the distributor and coil first crank it fired right up and ran better than it ever did for about 15 seconds then a loud pop and it killed and spun really fast. tore it back down the keyway had slipped out the tensioner gear put it all back together nice and tight and back to square one. no start just cranks
 
  #25  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jordonbond20
ok guys heres where I am changed the timing gears and chain because of slack and missing teeth and changed the distributor and coil first crank it fired right up and ran better than it ever did for about 15 seconds then a loud pop and it killed and spun really fast. tore it back down the keyway had slipped out the tensioner gear put it all back together nice and tight and back to square one. no start just cranks
You have introduced new variables to the equation. Never assume those new components are good out of the box. Go back to the basics, i.e. Fuel and Spark.
 
  #26  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:49 AM
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Got both adequate fuelvoressure and spark as Well as 19 lbs of vacuum and 100 lbs compression No go. Wtf
 
  #27  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:54 AM
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Could the dowel pin holding cam gear on distributor sheared? Engine would turn over, but without rotor spinning, there wouldn't be any spark.

Just a thought.
 
  #28  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:57 AM
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That crossed my mind too but I can watch the rotor spin and I know the timing is dead on because I set it at tdc and went down the cylinders in the firing order and felt compression and checked the rotor position also have spark and air and fuel
 
  #29  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:57 AM
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Oops, you posted as I was typing..

Having spark eliminated that thought..
 
  #30  
Old 02-20-2014, 08:22 PM
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ok guys heres what fixed it. drumroll......cam was 90 out s
 
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