Remove the rad cap from the tank, drain rad water into a bucket until 2" of water is showing in the tank and then close the bottom rad valve.

Remove the thermo housing with a 10mm socket and leave the hose on. Notice the hole in the bottom, this allows water to circulate in the block before the thermo opens which eliminates hot spots and heats faster. A great feature of this engine.

The distance is 1 1/2" to the housing base. Motorcraft thermos are 1 1/4" to the bottom valve, leaving 1/4" for circulation but many aftermarket thermos only have 1/8" here. The proper thermo for this engine is 195* which will give you good MPG and a hot heater.


Drop the thermo in making sure the o-ring is on the TOP.

Replace housing, remove the hose from the pipe on the intake manifold, and fill until you see water coming out.


Now replace hose but don't clamp and start the engine.

Wait until the thermo opens and the top hose is very hot.

With engine running remove hose for 30 seconds or until it quits burping.

Now button it up, replace water (coolant) and you are done.

 

Then you'll have a happy smile on your face knowing your V10 is both hot and cool ^^^^

 

Is this recent? Where's the snow?

Although totally inapplicable to me, I always enjoy a good write up.

Thanks.

 

Good write up, is all that rust normal?

 

I was gonna say...


Looks like you need to run some VC-9 through your cooling system.

 

That's not rust persay. It's a buildup on the aluminum.(if talking about where the thermostat goes)

 

Another good write up, Brent. Love the clarity of pics too.

Stewart

 

The lowest snow year in over 120 years here and most of the ski parks aren't even open. It was posted 10 minutes after it was done today.

 

Not really rust, most is gasket sealer someone used at one time and the rest is just the way the camera captured the colors. The coolant in the engine was like new after 2 years also. Also that pebbly texture in the bottom is from the casting and the color is brown/orange. Pictures are often deceiving.

 

Thanks for the explanation, I recently had my radiator replaced and from what I could see it was pretty clean.

 

Brent, I replaced mine,(2000 Ex V10), with a Motorcraft from the dealership. It says 185* on it, just like the original that was in it. You stated that the 195* is correct for this motor. Did the temperature requirement change over the years?

-Jim

 

Yes, all the parts stores etc say 195* is the OEM temp. I even researched it because nobody seemed to have the answer. The computer etc revolves around the 195 and my heater is noticeably hotter now too. The reason I installed this one was because I had a Motorcraft 185 in it that was working well but this is a cold climate here (often 20* at night) and I wanted the right one in there also.

 

Another GREAT write-up Brent! Thank you...

Quick question though, for anyone who might know..
I replaced my thermostat about 6 months ago (Motorcraft 195 deg.) and I did not go through the "burp" procedure. I didn't open the drain **** at the bottom of the radiator. I just did the job first thing in the morning when it was completely cold and simply took the hose off of the housing. A little antifreeze ran out of the hose and into a bucket underneath. Then I used a big turkey baster and sucked out the fluid on top of the pump housing. I removed and replaced the stat like normal and put it all back together.

I just drove normally for a about a week and then refilled any missing fluid into the overflow bottle. I have not had any problems with heat, or air trapped in the system.

Would this mean that the system will "burp" itself over time?

Just curious.

Thanks

James

 

Great write up! I like that I learned something new with the "burp" method. I"ll add that one to the memory bank.

 

Yes, burping is more important when you do something like a radiator change but at least you know how to do it now.