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87 Bronco walking all over road

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Old 02-02-2014, 11:50 PM
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87 Bronco walking all over road

Hello, i have an 87 Bronco xlt with twin i-beam front end. I just bought bigger tires 33" and replaced my ball joints, before doing all of this i notice my truck swayed on the road but now its gotten really bad. any help?
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:28 AM
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twin I beam

I have heard of this problem with twin I-beams. They are susceptible to damage when either pulling or being pulled by the front part of the vehicle. The problem can be more noticeable when you put oversized tires and wheels on it. Check for frame damage near the twin I-beam mounts. A good front end shop will be able to pin point the damage and repair it. You might check forums for repairs to twin I-beams. The weakness can also be improved with welding of additional strengthening members. Hope this helps.
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:24 AM
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worn front bearings, tie rods, loose steering box all contribute. The TTB pivot bushings and radius arm bushings may need some attention.

like mentioned it would probably be a good idea to have the front end alligned as well
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:47 AM
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I have changed my tire rob ends, going to replace my radius arm bushings this weekend
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:57 AM
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also I had an allinment done yesterday at firstone, the only thing they said was to check my radius arm bushings
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:44 PM
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Post up the alignment sheet so we can see what they set everything to. In addition to what has already been mentioned here, check for noticeable play/lash in the steering box.
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:46 PM
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I'll post it when I get home, I do have some play in my steering and planned on tightining the screw on the box but didn't get around to it
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:36 PM
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you must be very careful tightening that screw on the steering box. I ponied up for a red-head steering box and the bronco drives exceptionally better now.
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:32 PM
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I am going to turn it about a quarter turn to see if that helps
 
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:55 AM
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Ok, I don't think anyone has made clear just how many wear-points there are in the TTB Dana 44 front axle in this thread. ALL are suspect when dealing with "wander" in these trucks.

2 upper ball-joints
2 lower ball-joints
2 axle pivot bushings (inboard ends of the TTB axle halves)
2 radius arm bushings (aft of the axle between frame mount and radius arm)
2 or 4 shock absorber bushings (depending upon whether you have the auxiliary front shocks or not)
2 sway bar end links (if equipped with 2 bushings per link)
2 sway bar bushings (one on each frame rail)
2 outer tie-rod ends w/ bushings (outboard at each steering knuckle)
2 inner tie-rod ends w/ bushings (one attached to pitman arm, one attached to mid-point of previous inner tie-rod)

Wheel bearings were already mentioned but they are just as critical.

The driver's side axle pivot bushing mounts to passenger frame rail and vice-versa. These bushings are the most frequently overlooked and most frequently the culprit since they are the point of attachment for the axle that prevents lateral movement of the axle left-to-right under the truck. The radius arms and bushings prevent movement fore and aft.
 
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:36 PM
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grestreak92: If someone wanted to "rebuild" their TTB front end, would it be best to entirely remove it from the vehicle? Or should it be done in place?

Edit: I guess my specific concern is the "2 axle pivot bushings (inboard ends of the TTB axle halves)" which you referred to.
 
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:14 PM
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I have replaced inner and outer tie rods and balljoints. I am going to replace the radius arm bushing this weekend
 
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:09 AM
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If someone wanted to "rebuild" their TTB front end, would it be best to entirely remove it from the vehicle? Or should it be done in place?
That is an interesting question. Most of the components listed above attach to both the axle and the frame of the truck in some way. I would actually suggest that it might be easier to leave the axle halves attached to the truck for leverage. The idea being that if you end up having to apply brute force it is often easier to have the "immovable" nature of the rest of the truck to use to your advantage. Also, leaving everything else assembled while you remove one bushing will help in lining up the parts again for reassembly. The complexity of the movement of the TTB axle leaves it very flexible and ungainly to deal with if everything is loosened at one time.

To the same end, I would suggest performing the work with the front half of the truck well supported from the ground since it is helpful to remove both front wheels for easy access from multiple angles.
 
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:12 AM
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10-4. Thanks!
 
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:35 PM
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I would agree with Grey's comments
 
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