I have 18x9 front with 24mm offset with 1" spacers and still have a lot of room with it aired down, and about a 1/2" of clearance on the stock inner fenders as well ill po[/IMG]st some pics of them shortly

 

This is a pic of 96 cobra headers, I had to cut and refit the front pipe to give clearance for the steering shaft. Just enough room between frame and tubes, no issues on the pass side. I wanted to keep the stock steering wheel and shaft, using a bearing in the end, makes a very tight steering truck even with the big wheel[/IMG]

 

What bearing did you end up using?

 

Is your engine running yet? I've got a DOHC 4.6 and Tranny out of a 94 Mark VIII but read very different info on ECU tuning requirements and what can be used for a wiring harness. Would love to get this installed in my truck but don't want it tore up for months trying to get it back running. I know I'm a chicken but I just want to be sure I know what I'm doing.

 

I just used a shouldered bearing that would fit inside the tube and 3/4" inside dia. Im still working on my fuel system and cooling as well, Ive not dove into wiring yet, It seems hard to find exact wiring diagrams from anywhere, I would like to know what to keep and trash as well, it would make it much easier than looking at the factory diagrams, for me anyway.

 

Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you my copy of the 42 pin connector at the engine. I have it documented where each wire goes out of that connector. My engine is a 95 so I don't think that there is much difference between the two of them. If you don't have an electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual for your year of engine, go to ebay and buy one. It will be a cheap investment.
Here is what you start with.


This is what you finish with.

Some of that can be deleted if you don't use the neutral safety switch in the trans, if you don't already have one, it is easy to hook up and use it for your starter wires.

Kevin

 

Here is a copy of my pinout sheet from my 95 Mark VIII.
42 Pin Connector From Engine Harness
For 95 Lincoln Mark VIII Plug # C118M

PIN / on engine – goes to
#1 - L & R O2 sensors – goes to EEC pin # 60, tees off to power ground and air filter box sensor

#2 – Left O2 sensor – goes to EEC pin # 43

#3 – Right O2 sensor – goes to EEC pin # 44

#4 – Sending unit on back of right head goes to cold lockout for A/C controls. I will change the sensor to a sending
unit for the electric fan relay.

#5 – L & R O2 sensors – goes to switched power supply

#6 – Oil pressure sending unit – goes to gauge

#7 – Fuel injector # 1 – goes to EEC pin # 58 injector # 1 output

#8 – Fuel injector # 2 – goes to EEC pin # 59 injector # 2 output

#9 – Multiple pieces on engine - Vehicle power goes EEC pin # 37 & 57, tees off ignition control module pin # 7
and the main transmission plug on the passenger side

#10 – Temperature sending unit, drivers side – goes to gauge

#11 – Throttle position sensor – goes to EEC pin # 47 throttle position input

#12 – Throttle position sensor – goes to EEC pin # 26 reference voltage output

#13 – Fuel injector # 3 – goes to EEC pin # 39 injector # 3 output

#14 – Fuel injector # 4 – goes to EEC pin # 35 injector # 4 output

#15 – Fuel injector # 5 – goes to EEC pin # 15 injector # 5 output

#16 – Temperature sending unit – goes to EEC pin # 7 engine coolant temp

#17 – Switch on left valve cover – goes to EEC pin # 32 intake manifold runner control output

#18 – L & R O2 sensors, engine temp sender, & throttle position sensor – goes to EEC pin # 24,29 & 46

#19 – Fuel injector # 6 – goes to EEC pin # 12 injector # 6 output

#20 – Fuel injector # 7 – goes to EEC pin # 13 injector # 7 output

#21 – Fuel injector # 8 – goes to EEC pin # 14 injector # 8 output

#22 – Negative crank position sensor – goes to ignition control module pin # 9

#23 – Cam position sensor – goes to EEC pin # 2 cam position sensor input

#24 – P/S pump – goes to EVO actuator on steering column DELETE

#25 – P/S pump – goes to EVO Actuator on steering column DELETE

#26 – Drivers side coil – goes to ignition control module pin #5 driver for ignition coil #1

#27 – Ignition coil condenser, drivers and passenger side – goes to fuel pump relay and tees off to fused power in
start & run

#28 – Positive Crank Position Sensor – goes to ignition control module pin # 8

#29 – Cam position sensor – goes to EEC pin # 46 signal return

#30 – EGR valve – goes to EEC pin # 27 differential pressure feedback EGR input

#31 – Not used

#32–Passenger side coil–goes to ignition control module pin #4 driver for ignition coil #2

#33–Passenger side coil–goes to ignition control module pin #2 driver for ignition coil #3

#34 – A/C compressor – goes to VCRM-a/c clutch coil return

#35 – goes to EEC pin # 20 case ground, tees off and goes to wire grounded on frame

#36 – Same as 35 above

#37 – A/C compressor – goes to VCRM-a/c clutch coil power

#38 – EGR vacuum control switch, left valve cover – goes to EEC pin # 33, EGR vacuum regulator output

#39 – Idle Air Control – goes to EEC pin # 21 idle air control valve output

#40 – Sensor in air intake after filter – goes to EEC pin # 25 air intake temp input (IAT)

#41 – Drivers side coil – goes to ignition control module pin #1 driver for ignition coil #4

#42 - Knock sensors under intake – goes to EEC pin # 23 knock sensor input


I deleted the VCRM and the EGR valve in mine. I used relays for the fans instead of the VCRM.
I used an external inline fuel pump but used the factory safety disconnect.
There is still a lot more wires that go to the trans, the overdrive switch and the BOO switch for the torque convertor lockup. This is where you need the EVTM manual.

I hope that this helps.

Kevin

 

thank you soo much that will definately help

 

Been a while, truck is up and running only issues I have is code for od light during test, and boo light not connected. I have the od light functioning but I don't know what to hook the boo switch wire to? Any info would be greatly appreciated

 

The BOO switch has to be hooked into the brake light wires and goes to pin #2 on the ECM, at least on my 95 it is pin #2. This puts a 12v signal to the ECM to unlock the TC, disconnect the cruise and a couple of other things.
I am having the same problem with mine and the BOO not being recognized. I am working on that problem so I will let you know what I find out. I have been working on this for the last 4 months and I might be getting closer.
I am in the middle of a couple of other projects so this has gotten pushed aside for a little while but I am still working on it.


Have you driven the truck yet?
Does the torque converter lock up properly? Mine will cycle in and out but won't stay locked up. I am thinking that the BOO switch might have something to do with it or the ECM is bad. If it isn't working properly, the ECM thinks that the brake is applied all the time and won't let the TC lockup properly.


Kevin

 

Am I the only one that cant see any pictures? very interested because everything you are doing pertains to my build with the exception I will be using a CV IFS and C head 4v. seen it on google. how is the fitment with the rear fr500's and the fenders? I was under the conclusion that you had to run a positive offset or zero offset wheel with the irs and I seen you said something about running spacers even.

 

If you can't handle the Mark VIII 4.6 DOHC wiring clean up try Chuck. He fixed me up with a dieted harness. Tell him I sent you.

Chuck Field
Chuck's Roadster Electrics
12438 Hillcrest Drive
Nevada City CA 95959
530-477-7829 phone

 

All the photos from 99Hicksf350 don't show up for me either. He probably moved them so the location is wrong in the post and they won't show.

 

This is what I have found out about the BOO switch. You have to have a wire coming off of the brake light switch that goes to the BOO input on the PCM. Apparently the PCM not only receives a 12V signal in to tell it when the brake lights are on to disconnect the Torque converter, it also sends out a low voltage signal that has to go through the conventional brake light bulbs for the resistance. If this isn't hooked up this way, the PCM will not recognize the BOO switch. I finally hooked mine up this way and the PCM recognizes the BOO switch now and the torque converter locks up properly and the trans works great now. I have been dealing with this problem for a couple of years now and now I can finally start driving it more than local.


Kevin

 

Your truck looks great! I'm doing a CV ifs and a 4 link 8.8 on my 55 but I'm going to use the same motor and Trans you're using.