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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New member with a 1956 C-600

 
  #31  
Old 02-06-2016, 08:24 PM
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Not even close. Been down with the flu for more than a week.
 
  #32  
Old 02-06-2016, 08:43 PM
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I'm using the column and steering wheel from the engine's donor '96 F250 so the cruise control and blinkers will be easier to make work. I'm hoping I can make the column shift work too. I've been lazy and haven't done much to it lately.
 
  #33  
Old 02-06-2016, 10:04 PM
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Looking good! I like that you kept the original column and wheel.
 
  #34  
Old 02-07-2016, 05:14 AM
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Thanks Scott, going to lift the original seat into the cab today to make sure all the pedals work, and I have plenty of room.


Ken: Flu in Arizona? Shouldn't happen. feel better, and don't contaminate the truck.


Regards, Mark.
 
  #35  
Old 04-12-2016, 02:40 PM
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Engine & trans in and welded.

Finally welded in the 302 motor and C6 trans mounts, and stuffed the whole kit and caboodle in the engine compartment.


Next, on to welding in a chunk of steel for the core support and all the other crap that goes ahead of the engine.


Progress at last!


Regards, Mark.
 
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:02 PM
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Awesome! How much of a floor hump will you have? Will the OE cover work?
 
  #37  
Old 04-12-2016, 07:21 PM
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The OE cover fits fine, no additional hump space needed, even with the air cleaner on.
Getting to the trans dipstick requires me hiring a contortionist, but it is accessible.


Regards, Mark.
 
  #38  
Old 04-12-2016, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Badmoonreizen View Post
The OE cover fits fine, no additional hump space needed, even with the air cleaner on.
Getting to the trans dipstick requires me hiring a contortionist, but it is accessible.


Regards, Mark.
You should find a Econoline dipstick and dipstick tube.
 
  #39  
Old 04-13-2016, 05:01 AM
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The trans is out of a 1979 E-250. Is an Econoline dipstick and tube different?
 
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Old 04-13-2016, 04:34 PM
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Most of the Econoline ones I've seen have came up to the front of the engine. They have longer dipsticks and tubes. It can be a pain dealing with the longer dipstick. But it's much easier to reach, to check it.
 
  #41  
Old 04-13-2016, 04:42 PM
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You are absolutely correct, they do come to the front of the engine. For the number of times I will have to check the level, I can take off the doghouse and check it there.


Good tip, Thanks!!
 
  #42  
Old 04-23-2016, 04:38 PM
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Looking good Mark.
 
  #43  
Old 04-23-2016, 04:52 PM
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Thanks, finally got the pulley situation straightened out with a Mustang pulley on the water pump, and the power steering pump lined up.


Onward to fitting up the front end, fenders , hood and grill.


Regards, Mark.
 
  #44  
Old 06-07-2016, 06:31 AM
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Had the 9' box sides bent up, and stitch welded the pipe roll. Now I have to order the long bed front and tail gate so I can weld up the frame and fit it to the new chassis.
Did all the seat frame repairs with 3 prong pliers and clips, blasted and painted it.


I ordered a seat cover kit from Raybuck, foam from Mid-Fifty. I think I'll have a local upholstery shop install everything, rather than have bulges everywhere, although many others have done it on here themselves.


Regards, Mark.
 
  #45  
Old 06-07-2016, 09:57 AM
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Someone on here had a set of steps made, its on a post somewhere on this board.
Dennis Carpenter now has the firewall pad for that cab,its cut to fit the firewall and dog house,it also comes with the heater holes cut into it already,I used the one out of the C I'm building for the pattern and was the test pig for the trial fit,check with Virgil.
 

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