Afternoon guys...long time lurker but I don't post a bunch.
I'm sitting here in the planning stages of SAS for my '95 F150 extended cab 4x4.

Nothing special, 302 4 speed automatic with push button t-case.

Plans are to:
SAS swap, ditch the dana44 TTB for a Dana44 solid axle
Swap push button t-case for NP205.
Install my 8 foot wide western snow plow.

I've gotten a bit of gruff from a my buddy Paul who thinks I need to keep my '79 Dent alive. After being in my family for nearly 25 years, rust rust and more rust is making me finally call it quits and part/salvage the truck and move on.

On the '95, it's set up with the 8.8 RABS drum read end. As I discovered after my leaf spring repairs, I lost my speedo and the ABS acted up. Fixed the wire I stretched, and everything works fine.

I was planning on just doing a front and rear axle swap, as I'd like to just use the 31 spline rear axle with tracloc carrier, but I'm not compelled to swap the gauges just so I can have a working speedo.

With that said, I'm going to leave the 8.8 out back. I don't go off roading much so it's fine IMHO as it sits.

I was reading on the 3.50 vs. 3.55 gearing, the '79 and the '95 call out for the same part number on the ring and pinion, so to keep things consistent, I was planning on swapping gearing and pinion on the '79 carrier.
If anyone feels it's not worth worrying about, let me know. Not trying to be lazy but I've got no experience on setting up carriers, only swapping complete 9" center sections...but it's something I would actually like to give a try at doing, just need to buy a gauge kit.

Spring selection has been a question for me...there plenty of SAS swaps detailed but I'm trying to figure out what spring to go with for something for use with a snow plow that is 8 feet of steel.
I'm also wondering on the SAS if it's an absolute you must do a minimum of 4" of coil spring lift? I figured a 2-3 inch lift was going to be fine, with possibly dropping the coil buckets on the frame slightly.

Sway bar for the front end was another question I had, still trying to find out if it's a big deal to reuse my stock '95 bar, or what my options are.

Also, just trying to learn from others here so I can knock this out in a weekend for the front end swap.

Lastly, I don't know if there are and FTE guys in or around Omaha that I could look their trucks over if a SAS was done?

Thanks,
Andrew


Oh, yeah, pics of said trucks:


From 5-6 years ago...*sigh* before the rust really set in:


The '95 as bought for $600.



I don't have any new pics of the '95, but I fixed the sheet metal damage and been driving since March 2013 and it's proven to be a darn decent truck.
Long term plans are repairnig bed sides, cab rust, new passenget fender, radiator support replacement due to typical rot.
Possibly look at doing a 351W swap when the 302 lets go.

 

Not going to happen. The part number might be the same but the axles have zero in common. The 79 has a 9". There's nothing wrong with running 3.50 with 3.55.

 

I am a little confused too. Re - reading a few times leads me to believe you are keeping the 8.8" w/3.55 gears. The front axle is going to be the '79 D44 w/3.50 gears. That should work ok.

Personally I think a half ton is too light to do regular plowing duty.

 

Sorry referring to the front Dana 44 off the 79 and the dana44 ttb front axle.

Ideally I wanted to swap both axles, ditch the 8.8 in back but the abs/ speedo issue has me leaving therear axle alone for now.

Regarding 1/2 being too light, to a degree yes, but I'm not doing this for a living, merely my driveway, family members and clearing my street out front, not the local bar or store lot. Long term I'm considering a late model super duty but I'm more concerned building a garage over some $35k truck sitting on the driveway.

Realistically what's the big difference on this era truck between a 150 to the 250? Besides solid axles and deeper gearing. The frames are not that different are they?

 

A 250 of that gen still has a TTB, just an inverted leaf setup.

As for your front springs, maybe you could try running springs for a TTB, they are stiffer than the solid axle springs.

 

Noooo, save the dent! Lol

 

There is not a huge difference but enough to make one consider using the appropriate one: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - f250 vs f350

 

I thought I read on here somewhere that F150 Supercabs were built using F250 frames... Might be coming out ahead in that regard.

TTBs seem to do OK pushing a plow around. Had 3 in the family (80 Bronco 302, 82 F150 300, 94 Explorer 4.0). Other issues came up, Bronc kept having engine issues (before plow installation), and the F150 rotted away. Put them in 4-Low, and push.

Airbags in the front springs help out quite a bit. Snow tires help as well.

The frame widths are different between the dent side and the newer truck, in case you were planning to use the same plow mount from the old truck onto the newer one. When the F150 got the plow installed, it was found the old truck frame was narrower, needing more fabrication to get the plow mount to work.

 

I figured as much on the plow mount. This mount was on a different truck before the dent. It's home made with 5/8 plate steel welded together with the original plow mount bolted to it. I'm just like really??! When I looked at it last fall while under the dent welding up a hole in the oil pan.
I've been trying to sell ole blue but everyone looks at the sheet metal and goes no way. I look at the running gear and I'm like that's the real truck stuff not light duty late model crap on a half ton.
Issue is I could swap cabs and reskin the truck but not in the mood to spend the cash. Plus I don't need two trucks...as sad as it is to say that. If I could is go with a extended cab dent swap my 4wd parts but I'm getting lazy and like the efi. Blue has always been a cold blooded beast.

 

You will be just fine putting the plow on your 95 WITH the 79 front axle and suspension. The weakest link in the 95 with the plow is the STOCK front end, but you plan on doing away with that so no worries. And like you said, it is NOT a full time commercial plow truck. I plow semi commercially with my 04 ranger that I adapted 7.5' to and it has taken the abuse for the past 4 years. So a 1/2 ton with a solid axle and a 8' foot plow will have NO PROBLEMS

 

Thanks. I did read on a couple SAS swaps, guys used the TTB springs.
I'm debating on tire size right now. I want to just keep running 31x10.50's but have a feeling on a lift, even minor it's going to look odd. Probably look into some slightly bigger 32x11.50's.

I wanted to honestly not lift the truck a huge amount, I was thinking 2-3" but I keep reading on the D44 SAS you have to go with 4" lift springs. Going to look some more, I know minor trimming is needed on the swap on the engine cross member but not a big deal.

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.

 

The 4" springs are so you can clear the cross member without trimming.

 

Could you fabricate a new cross member and make it so you wouldn't have to lift as much or at all? Just curious cause I would like to eventually do a SAS.

 

I got into a discussion with another semi-local guy I am friends with about him looking into a SAS on his 88 Bronco.
Issue becomes the cross member as well.

I'm looking for a bolt in affair as I am not some hard core off roader. I'm just wanting the sold Dana 44 and toss on my snow plow.

 

You shouldn't need any cross member modification if you're lifting the truck at all.

Ttb springs can be used, no doubt, but they'll beat your spine and your dash to death. If you have a multi spring pack you can tune the springs by removing one or two.