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...I was referring to the extra money he had to spend (not expected) due the extra HP. Most the traction/ladder bars. The smaller nozzles would be less likely cause the need for these. Also if I had nozzles that big I would want to step up to a larger turbo to be able to support them.
I was saying I would not want 100% nozzles because they would cause me to spend even more money on the truck. I know that he is happy with the injectors and your tuning.
Ah... now I know for sure you're talking about me - there's more than one Rich around here.
Now with all of that spending behind me... I'm real happy with what Stinky can do if I so choose. I've been reading up on standard EGTs while driving 65MPH on the flat, I've got a lot of practice looking at the EGT gauge and AE/Torque data, and I've had multiple tunes on two tuning platforms. The 100% nozzles (with plenty of air) give me a cold exhaust. Winter numbers: 200 - 300 degrees F while idling, 525 - 575 degrees at 65 MPH on the flat, and 1200 degrees is about all I can do in permagrin mode. That last number is not towing, so I can't yet know what heat soak will do to me. I can't stay in the throttle long enough to see what a long burn will do - the truck goes too fast too soon.
Nozzles: 160/0 gives you cooler EGTs than stockers by default (easier to get the fuel in quicker). Flash a lit match under your hand, then take that lit match and hold it under your hand a while longer. That's the difference between single-shot and split-shot injectors - the singles are quicker. Even with that, the 160/0 is for trucks needing more torque, not high-RPM performance. In order to keep the power up through the RPM range, the nozzles need to be bigger.
The 30% nozzle is an "augered out" (slang, not a technical term) stock nozzle. This gives you slightly better high-RPM performance, but the stick still can't drain completely on race day. I have been told this one is easy to tune for, and it makes sense when I think it through.
The 80% nozzle is a whole different nozzle from the manufacturer. With this nozzle, you just crossed a line. You can get all the fuel out of the stick at high revs, but this is entering the Buck$Zooka live-fire range. Your cold starts will no longer be smoke-free, the axle-wrap fenceline is here, your transmission had better be up for this, and remote tuning won't likely give you the street manners you're accustomed to.
The 100% nozzle is an augered-out 80% nozzle. These can give some really low EGTs (with more air). They are slightly quicker than the 80%, and they can truly drain at redline on our truck. This was the Holy Grail for so many people - use all the fuel in the stick when racing with this size. I didn't get 100% for racing, I got 100% for the cold EGTs when towing my next boat in the summer... and for the room they have during the injection cycle.
To explain that better: As we drive along, we have so many milliseconds of time to get the fuel into the cylinder and burned before the piston pulls away from the fire. The higher the RPM, the fewer milliseconds we have. At lower RPM, the window to inject fuel is quite wide... and this is where the tuner has options when the nozzle is big enough. A tow tune can be more of a tow tune here... but more oomph in the low end can make more heat and your cylinder pressure can get excessive - if the tuner isn't careful. I've seen this happen.
If you go with the 80% or the 100% nozzles in search of lower EGTs, you can always dial down the power to avoid axle-angling, driveline deforming, and transmission torture - but you can't easily avoid the smoky cold starts and the need for live tuning.
The main problem with going for a stick-up is the stock air system was matched to the stock injectors without tuning... and these sticks (with tuning) move way past that. To fully use what the IH 160s can deliver, you really want more air - in and out. Yes... you can "get by" without air mods, or you can have the sticks detuned to stock power. To really fly, that dragon's gunna need air under the wings.
Air, air, and more air has been my big effort since the new sticks arrived... and it really helped. The 38R is not the most powerful puffer in the paddock, but it gets it done with a breathing cold-air intake and a 4" exhaust. After all I've learned from my mistakes and successes, if I had to choose only one this year and the other one next year - I'd choose air before fuel. Here's stock sticks, stock tune, and a stock turbo with bigger hardware before and after the GTP38:
There are those out there with 250/200s and 450/400s that may chuckle at my grand descriptions of the added power from a lowly 160cc injector... but properly applied, these sticks don't mess around.
True he may not have the depth of knowledge in any one area which other longtime members or diesel professionals on this forum may have, but undeniably through trial and error and superior intellect and honesty to share his mistakes as well as his successes, it has all come together for Rich.
And he is explaining how the various components of the system work together in a way which even I can understand. No doubt he is helping others too.
I just repped Rich. I suggested that he can now change his avatar caption from "I'm a cautionary tale" to "guru in training..."
About 7 years ago all my upgrades were aimed at lowering EGT's. The Van Turbo & gutting the EBPV dropped them @100 degrees, installing the DI intercooler resulted in the largest drop and the Swamps 175/146 single shots even help lower them a tad.
The 175/146 is just more cc's than the AC's...and they have a stock nozzle..and you got a tad lower EGT. That's opposite of JT250 experience with a 30% nozzle.
The question is this...are both Jason's experience out of ordinary? And some other issue needs addressed to get back to the top of the Bell Curve?
The 175/146 is just more cc's than the AC's...and they have a stock nozzle....
I'm sorry I have to be the one to break this to you, but that second number after the hash is percent above stock nozzle (in terms of flow). A "/0" is stock, and a "/100" can deliver twice the injector's available fuel with the exact same ICP/FIPW as a "/0".
There are so many things that can cause high EGTs, the stick by itself is not the "easy button". Tuning, the air system, and fixing exhaust/boost leaks are additional (and necessary) components to the easy button.
I'm sorry I have to be the one to break this to you, but that second number after the hash is percent above stock nozzle (in terms of flow). A "/0" is stock, and a "/100" can deliver twice the injector's available fuel with the exact same ICP/FIPW as a "/0".
There are so many things that can cause high EGTs, that the stick by itself is not the "easy button".
Rich, by all accounts and according to Swamp's...the designation 146 is the OEM nozzle.
The 175/146 injectors are a terrific upgrade for those 1999-2003, 7.3L owners looking for efficiency, as well as a modest power increase. The 175 single shot injectors retain the OEM ("146"nozzle), use NO more high pressure oil than stock AD split shot injectors, yet flow 25+cc's more fuel.
and a little blurb from Tim @ PIS:
The 146
Nozzle is what swamps refers to as a stock nozzle. Based off measurements of the 7 holes in the nozzle.
Rich, by all accounts and according to Swamp's...the designation 146 is the OEM nozzle.
I stand corrected. This is the important part of getting info from the forum... allowing time for more input from other sources. Thank you for this important information. Swamps has gone off the page in their injector designations, but their way makes sense and I can't disagree with it. If everybody held to this method, I have 160/292s... but it will take a while to wrap my head around the significance of this. The question then becomes "At what ICP and FIPW do you see the full 146, or would I see the full 160?" The injector professionals (with a flow bench) know this one, and they pass that info onto the tuners.
Tried to rep you, but I have to spread 'em around.
Rich, I got him for you. Dan, thanks for bringing that bit up, as simple language can confuse the heck out of the situation. "Most" other tuners/injector builders use the second number to indicate upgraded inj. size.
Looks like I have more reading to do.
Rich...in the things you write, one of the things I've paid attention to is cc's/nozzle/PW.
If a 160 with a stock nozzle can't be emptied in x amount of PW how does having 25 more ccs get emptied with a stock nozzle?
That's a really big question with a surprising answer: You do get about 25 CCs (with tuning) more than stock (without tuning) but it doesn't drain the bigger stick at higher RPMs... this is true of a 160 or a 175. The stock AD/AE 140 (135,145, or whatever they call it) can't drain without tuning... but draining them carefully will yield another 60HP - no matter what moniker they hang on the tune. You might get a little more pop out of an AD/AE than the 60HP, but this would be through means other than fueling alone - like more air (always a good idea) or advancing the timing (Start Of Injection - bad juju, that one).
Thanks for all the info. Great Stuff!! Who was the OEM for our injectors? Was it Alliant? I notice several vendors selling new injectors, wonder if they all come from the same manufacturer?