Hey I have a 68' 200 I6 with a one barrel Carter YF carburetor. While driving sometimes it just dies like you would reach over and turn the key to off. You can pull on the throttle on the carburetor and hear it pumping fuel, but it acts like it's not getting anything to the intake and the bowl is full. Let it set for about an hour and it will start back. Thought it might be flooding but when this happens I can take out the spark plugs and they are dry. What would cause it for the fuel not getting down into the intake?

 

I wanted to give you at least a reply....
The Carter 1BBL YF goes into my list of whacky-one-barrels right at the top. These carbs are really not that great and prone to trouble. Good friend had one on a 300-6 on an 79 F150 that was forever trouble. He did the Offy intake swap with a 500 CFM Holley and was very happy. Also part of that swap I think was changing out the exhaust manifolds because the original design was an intake exhaust "log" unit where it all ran together. I could be wrong because it has been a few years since I really looked at a 6. His ran a lot better after the swap. Your 6 should be a 170 and I do not know if the Offy intake would work, but you probably would want a smaller carb than a 500. Problem is the Offy intake can be kinda salty, and a 600 CFM basic Holley is last time I checked 100 buck cheaper than the 500 CFM unit. It comes down to money and what you want.

My first troubleshoot is to check the fuel lines. I do not know why, but I remember fuel lines of the 6s being in a position near the block that can cause vapor locking issues. Sliding some silicone heat shield over the line or wrapping it with fiberglass heat shield my very well fix you issue. Just follow the line from the pump to the block. I think the pump is on the middle of the block driver's side and the line runs up and over to the carb. The carb sits on a combined intake/exhaust casting. If you are 1/4" or less from the block or exhaust, wrap the line to precent vapor locking.

My first line of advice is price a rebuilt unit for you application. One may not be available, if it is and is in the price range, grab it.

Before you surrender your existing unit as a core, run the new carb for a bit and see if the problem disappears.

Second suggestion is to rebuild the existing carb if you have the ability to do so.

Third suggestion: clean the existing carb: Seafoam the heck out of it. Use the whole can. Just apply as directed continuously.

Next: You may very well have an issue where something internally is not working properly, or you have a bad linkage. Carefully comb over the linkage for slop.

My last line of advice is one-barrels are whacky. The best one I have seen is the one on my stocker 71 CJ-5. Its on the 231 odd fire V-6 six int here and works well. I do not know if it is the stock carb, bit it is very basic and had little or no emissions junk on it. The emissions stuff in this era was junk and really makes these engines much hard to contend with these years later. Jeep is Just Everybody Else's Parts back in the day, but there is a lot more for Jeeps on the 1 bbl department, so maybe see if you can get a new unit for a Jeep if it crosses.

 

Are you sure it's the carb? "Just dies like you would reach over and turn the key to off" sounds a little more like an ignition issue. Fuel delivery issues tend to more sputter and cough once or twice before dying, like you were running out of gas.

One way to trouble shoot if it's getting gas is to pour a little gas down the throat before you try to start it. If it's not getting gas it ought to fire when you do that. If it doesn't fire then it probably is getting gas and you've got a different problem.

 

Welcome to the site
AND
Forum!
May take awhile to get an answer but it will be a good one!

"...a 68' 200 I6 with a one barrel Carter YF..."
I know that 200 came in the bronk in '73 (4 two yrs?) so it may be hard to rely on anything being original... but the Carter YF is a good one (in the small six or big six, and it may have even been in that jeep mentioned - I'll hafta look it up to be assured). It was quite successfully used by several co. for several decades (3?). Some prefer it as a good match for tq w/this vehicle. If not ided clearly I would suspect it to B an autolite 1100 (if it is a 200). Also if it is a '68 it would B the 1st yr the engine coordination (feedback) between the SCV on the carb and the L-O-M on the dizzy would have been deleted (double check on that cuz I'm less familiar w/when the 200 changed over).

It would be about $250 - 300 for a re-built or replacement. A kit you'd use yourself would B 1 tenth that price! Folks over a ford six dot com helped me rebuild mine. They like all the sixes but there's a separate forum on the 200.

How did you assess?:
"...hear it pumping fuel, but it acts like it's not getting anything to the intake and the bowl is full..."
I would suspect the float? Can U C the pump give it a shot into the throat when pumpin the linkage? 40 yrs w/o rebuild is askin alot. I'd check the other systems 1st, tho B4 doing so (ign/electrical, mech. fuel pump, clean filters, choke & system, bent linkage, float level & condition, needle and seat).

Good Luck, keep us informed on yer progress -