I am getting a no start when warm issue on my 2007 f250 6.0 at 145l miles.

I have been reading up on what is needed for a repair .

Once the truck is running it will run fine until it warms up then will not start again once shutoff until it cools down. No issues while it is running (that i can tell). Started about 3 weeks ago.

I will be picking up a scanguage II after work today (actron obd scanner and elm5 scanner do not show the info i need)

Would this most likely be a bad IPR or the STC Fitting?

I have a IPR socket on its way from amazon and have most common hand tools (socket, wrenches and so forth) I have a ft\lbs torque wrench.

If i need to do the stc hpop fitting update are any special tools are needed?

 

A hot no start is probably either the rail plugs, STC, or standpipes, roughly in that order. You can do an air test to isolate the leak before you dive in, you can search for info on this in the 6.0l forum:
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

The rail plugs and standpipes are under the valve covers, but aren't difficult to get to. The STC fitting can be replaced with the intake and EGR cooler in place if you're careful about not dropping a fastener down the HPOP hole.

As far as special tools:
* grey RTV to seal the HPOP cover, the manual says any other type will cause your oil to foam. I bought a tube of the Motorcraft stuff over the counter for about $8 and it's lasted through several of these jobs
* A small lb-ft torque wrench (5-30 lb-ft) helps, because they aren't very accurate under 20% of their full value and several of the fasteners have torque specs between 8 and 15 lb-ft. Very important doing injector work, because the hold downs are finicky about the torque spec.
* 10mm and 12mm allen sockets for the SP/dummy plug (updated part drive size is different from original part IIRC)
* a shallow T30 (*I think it's T30, I have the set so I can't remember specifically, but the engine has T27, T30, T40 and T45 fasteners) for the oil rail on the passenger side to get the standpipe out, paired with a 1/4" breaker bar ( BLPTS1430, Socket Driver, TORX®, Stubby, Blue-Point, T30 ) If you use 3/8" drive you'll need a really short one, if you use 1/4" a more standard length should work.
* air test fittings ( )
* an IPR controller if you don't want to make a jumper to close it manually ( )

If you're in a money spending mood, Snap On sells a 13mm half moon wrench that is great for up-pipe and y-pipe work. You will have to pull the turbo but should be able to leave the exhaust unaffected, but if you loosen any of the pipes it'll make it easier to seal them back up.

 

 

Thanks for the info texastech_diesel! The videos make it look much easier then expected.

I got a scanguage II after work and tested it (after a quick programming) when i got home.

When trying to start it when hot i am only getting about 310psi.

the ipr, fmp and syc are all good.

 

Check your ICP sensor and pigtail for oil, and replace those first if there's any oil to get a correct ICPV signal to the PCM. They tend to fail more frequently than the o-rings on the rial plugs/ standpipes, and you'll find oil in the connector when they do. Not that dummy plugs/standpipes/STCs don't fail (they DO), I just don't want you to waste money where it's not needed. The air test will hopefully pinpoint your problem, but go to the 6.0L forum anyways to post your data numbers so we can really help you out.

 

ICP sensor and pigtail are oil free. I will be doing the air test shortly once i get the parts.

 

Sounds good. If you want to, post a new thread in the 6.0L forum so we can help you when you start posting specific results.

 

I found an 8mm flex head ratchet wrench to be a lifesaver for the three bolts under the egr cooler. I also had to loosen the up pipes on my 05 I needed 1/4" more more to get the cover out. Be Very, VERY careful not to drop anything down the hpop cavity. The most likely thing are the three bra I mentioned under the cooler because you can't remove them until you remove the cover. Oh and remember to put them back in before the cover is in place.

 

Does this "OTC 6764 Injector Pressure Regulator Controller" do more then just applying 12v from the battery?

Could i just use a pigtail "6e7z12a690da" with extended wires?

 

The IPR should be able to handle direct 12V from the batteries via using a pigtail with extended wires, at least in short enough durations to air test the system. I forget what the exact amount of time you shouldn't exceed putting direct 12V onto the valve is, but someone in the 6.0L forum probably knows. The OTC tool is good if your helper doesn't get the concepts.... IE my wife.

 

Looking online I see that I need to use more the 100psi for the air test...my compressor does not do that for very long...if at all (little 2 gal one).


can i use my co2 tank as an air source for the test? will co2 affect the oil or seals?

 

I started repairs today. its only 20deg out so i am moving slow.

did the passanger side first, dummy plug was missing 1/4 of itself. truck start fine three times after a nice long test run to warm it up afterwards.

Once it warms up i will do the stand pips and other dummy plug and stc for preventive maintenance.

thank you for all the info.

 

Glad you got it running

That's why these things suck, if you took it in to a dealer you'd be out several hundred bucks instead of a $26 part and a few hours of your time.