1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Importance of a block plate?

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  #31  
Old 01-21-2014, 05:38 PM
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Jim,

I agree, I don't think I'd lose too much sleep over that dowel alignment hole. It looks as if there is enough there to do the job.

Here's to #8 on the tranny pull. I hope it all goes smooth.
Bobby
 
  #32  
Old 01-21-2014, 07:55 PM
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Thanks Bobby Ill just use it as is. I was doing a little research on ford block plates in general. Dave mentioned cutting a slot in the bottom of the plate so it could be slid down behind the flex plate, only requiring separating the trans a few inches. I have found that some of the later Ford (70s I think) plates came stock with the top open all the way down to the crank hole. I don't see why I can't cut the slot in the top of the plate, allowing me to slide it in from underneath. I like Daves suggestion, as the only purpose of the plate is as every one has pointed out is for separation, starter issues and lower trans support. Like previously stated it wouldn't effect anything. Does anyone have any other thoughts on this slotting of the top of the block plate? The plate I got is a universal plate that can be used on 157 and 164 tooth flex plates so I'm pretty confident that it has more to it than is actually needed to perform its designed intentions.
 
  #33  
Old 01-21-2014, 08:36 PM
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The dowels in the block might keep it from sliding up, I don't know how much room there is between the flex plate and block. Otherwise I see no problem.
 
  #34  
Old 01-21-2014, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tinman52
The dowels in the block might keep it from sliding up, I don't know how much room there is between the flex plate and block. Otherwise I see no problem.
Thanks Scott
 
  #35  
Old 01-22-2014, 04:52 PM
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Jim,
I see no reason that you can't slot the plate as necessary to ease the slipping it into place. I think that the main function is the separation and starter alignment.

Go for it
Bobby
 
  #36  
Old 01-22-2014, 04:55 PM
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As long as the split plate doesn't oil-can and touch the flex plate... Is it really that much more trouble to pull the flex?
 
  #37  
Old 01-22-2014, 05:04 PM
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The dowel pins will be in the way. I doubt ya can get it on slotting or not with the flex on it. Do it right and do it once I say.
 
  #38  
Old 01-22-2014, 05:12 PM
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The dowel pins will be in the way. I doubt ya can get it on slotting or not with the flex on it. Do it right and do it once I say.
 
  #39  
Old 01-22-2014, 05:14 PM
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The dowel pins will be in the way. I doubt ya can get it on slotting or not with the flex on it. Do it right and do it once I say.
 
  #40  
Old 01-22-2014, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by arctic y block
The dowel pins will be in the way. I doubt ya can get it on slotting or not with the flex on it. Do it right and do it once I say.
Could you repeat that please????????
 
  #41  
Old 01-22-2014, 07:49 PM
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by underthebridgejim
Goooooood to hear LOL. I'm still going to try and find the piece that broke off and try securing it back in place. To Ross and everyone that has made this post an educational event. Thank you so much, your help is ALWAYS very appreciated.
JB•Weld would be a reasonable product to use. Glue it once and glue it right.


 
  #42  
Old 01-23-2014, 07:39 PM
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Hey Artic, do you hear an echo in here?
 
  #43  
Old 01-24-2014, 12:01 AM
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Ok the plate, and the dowels were delivered. And just for the heck of it I called "P/A" the maker of the plate since there is so much interest. There tech. said, as long as you leave the area around the starter intact it wont affect anything to slot in a different area. That said I have no Idea what I'm going to do until I get in there, but, I like to have everyone's opinion on any task that I'm about to undertake. Onward and upward!
 
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