linear actuator & a tilt nose
#1
linear actuator & a tilt nose
Fellers - its supposed to be -40 with the wind chill here on Monday.
So - since I'm not going to be out in my garage - I thought I'd plan out the power tilt system for my nose.
The 56 already has a nice tilt fiberglass nose - I want a power tilt.
I've been thinking of adding a linear actuator with a switch to lift & lower the nose.
There is a steel frame that the nose is attached to & a large piece of angle iron on either side that I could attach to.
the other end I would have to make up some kind of bracket on the frame - plenty of space - but I have a couple questions.
1 - when I open the nose - it only takes 20 or so pounds of effort to get it moving & it gets heavier as it opens. I'm holding it at the point farthest from the hinge & so the leverage is in my favor. Right at the front of the hinge however - the weight to get the nose to move will be much greater.
ANY idea how strong of an actuator I should start with?
2 - the actuators all have a travel distance - how do I measure how much travel I will need?
3 - how should I wire this? It would be really cool to have a remote control so I could lift & lower it from outside the truck.
You can see the frame & the pin hinge & the angle iron I would connect to at the lower front of the frame.
So - since I'm not going to be out in my garage - I thought I'd plan out the power tilt system for my nose.
The 56 already has a nice tilt fiberglass nose - I want a power tilt.
I've been thinking of adding a linear actuator with a switch to lift & lower the nose.
There is a steel frame that the nose is attached to & a large piece of angle iron on either side that I could attach to.
the other end I would have to make up some kind of bracket on the frame - plenty of space - but I have a couple questions.
1 - when I open the nose - it only takes 20 or so pounds of effort to get it moving & it gets heavier as it opens. I'm holding it at the point farthest from the hinge & so the leverage is in my favor. Right at the front of the hinge however - the weight to get the nose to move will be much greater.
ANY idea how strong of an actuator I should start with?
2 - the actuators all have a travel distance - how do I measure how much travel I will need?
3 - how should I wire this? It would be really cool to have a remote control so I could lift & lower it from outside the truck.
You can see the frame & the pin hinge & the angle iron I would connect to at the lower front of the frame.
#2
You can also see in the pictures the buckles used to hold the nose closed - these really chew up the paint at the junction.
I'm planning to paint the truck this spring/summer & I want to eliminate these & use the actuator to hold the nose in place.
I'll put a pin or two to catch it & make sure it lines up & all - but that's the real motivation for adding the actuator.
I'm planning to paint the truck this spring/summer & I want to eliminate these & use the actuator to hold the nose in place.
I'll put a pin or two to catch it & make sure it lines up & all - but that's the real motivation for adding the actuator.
#3
Join Date: Jul 1997
Location: Beautiful Hueytown Alabam
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B-monkey..
that's what I did on my hood... here's the details.. might be of some help
http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/til...gfulltilt.html
later
john
that's what I did on my hood... here's the details.. might be of some help
http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/til...gfulltilt.html
later
john
#6
I found (and bought) this
Remote Control Wiring Switch Kit for Linear Actuators | eBay
I still have not decided on my actuators - but for $65 I decided to just get it & get busy installing it.
Next is to find the actuator that I want to use - there are a million of them to choose from.
I want the silver bullet - cheap, 10x stronger than I need & it should open & close fast.
By fast I'm thinking between 10 & 20 seconds.
Any suggestions on where I might find this mythical beast?
Remote Control Wiring Switch Kit for Linear Actuators | eBay
I still have not decided on my actuators - but for $65 I decided to just get it & get busy installing it.
Next is to find the actuator that I want to use - there are a million of them to choose from.
I want the silver bullet - cheap, 10x stronger than I need & it should open & close fast.
By fast I'm thinking between 10 & 20 seconds.
Any suggestions on where I might find this mythical beast?
#7
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#8
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
Posts: 262,903
Received 4,119 Likes
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2,649 Posts
Fellers - its supposed to be -40 with the wind chill here on Monday.
So - since I'm not going to be out in my garage - I thought I'd plan out the power tilt system for my nose.
The 56 already has a nice tilt fiberglass nose - I want a power tilt.
I've been thinking of adding a linear actuator with a switch to lift & lower the nose.
There is a steel frame that the nose is attached to & a large piece of angle iron on either side that I could attach to.
the other end I would have to make up some kind of bracket on the frame - plenty of space - but I have a couple questions.
1 - when I open the nose - it only takes 20 or so pounds of effort to get it moving & it gets heavier as it opens. I'm holding it at the point farthest from the hinge & so the leverage is in my favor. Right at the front of the hinge however - the weight to get the nose to move will be much greater.
ANY idea how strong of an actuator I should start with?
2 - the actuators all have a travel distance - how do I measure how much travel I will need?
3 - how should I wire this? It would be really cool to have a remote control so I could lift & lower it from outside the truck.
You can see the frame & the pin hinge & the angle iron I would connect to at the lower front of the frame.
So - since I'm not going to be out in my garage - I thought I'd plan out the power tilt system for my nose.
The 56 already has a nice tilt fiberglass nose - I want a power tilt.
I've been thinking of adding a linear actuator with a switch to lift & lower the nose.
There is a steel frame that the nose is attached to & a large piece of angle iron on either side that I could attach to.
the other end I would have to make up some kind of bracket on the frame - plenty of space - but I have a couple questions.
1 - when I open the nose - it only takes 20 or so pounds of effort to get it moving & it gets heavier as it opens. I'm holding it at the point farthest from the hinge & so the leverage is in my favor. Right at the front of the hinge however - the weight to get the nose to move will be much greater.
ANY idea how strong of an actuator I should start with?
2 - the actuators all have a travel distance - how do I measure how much travel I will need?
3 - how should I wire this? It would be really cool to have a remote control so I could lift & lower it from outside the truck.
You can see the frame & the pin hinge & the angle iron I would connect to at the lower front of the frame.
#10
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
Posts: 262,903
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#11
#12
#13
#14
Brass,
I went back and forth on where to mount the rear side of the actuators. I tried welding an L bracket to the side of the frame but ended cutting them off as it hit my tires on a sharp turn. Figured that out AFTER all that welding of course.
Anyway what I ended up doing is welding a bracket inside the A shaped framework that houses my shocks, just above the top of the shocks. It is already welded to the frame already and enough clearance to do any shock work so figured it was a good choice. That is what i ended up with although you cannot see in videos. If it helps you I can email you a picture of it close up.
I did a lot of research before during and after this actuator job. The open close distance is key and the right size actuators. Mine have a 6" travel plus the length of the actuators.
In a perfect world i would have it open even further but could not get that worked out. The back of my hood sticks up just a little I have to work that out. Overall the coolness factor supersedes these items which i will fix. Plus i went for the wireless key fobs rather that flip switch. I can stand back 20' and raise this hood. Talk about a head turner...ha ha.
Anyway just thought I would share that any questions let me know.
Len
I went back and forth on where to mount the rear side of the actuators. I tried welding an L bracket to the side of the frame but ended cutting them off as it hit my tires on a sharp turn. Figured that out AFTER all that welding of course.
Anyway what I ended up doing is welding a bracket inside the A shaped framework that houses my shocks, just above the top of the shocks. It is already welded to the frame already and enough clearance to do any shock work so figured it was a good choice. That is what i ended up with although you cannot see in videos. If it helps you I can email you a picture of it close up.
I did a lot of research before during and after this actuator job. The open close distance is key and the right size actuators. Mine have a 6" travel plus the length of the actuators.
In a perfect world i would have it open even further but could not get that worked out. The back of my hood sticks up just a little I have to work that out. Overall the coolness factor supersedes these items which i will fix. Plus i went for the wireless key fobs rather that flip switch. I can stand back 20' and raise this hood. Talk about a head turner...ha ha.
Anyway just thought I would share that any questions let me know.
Len
#15
Brass,
I went back and forth on where to mount the rear side of the actuators. I tried welding an L bracket to the side of the frame but ended cutting them off as it hit my tires on a sharp turn. Figured that out AFTER all that welding of course.
Anyway what I ended up doing is welding a bracket inside the A shaped framework that houses my shocks, just above the top of the shocks. It is already welded to the frame already and enough clearance to do any shock work so figured it was a good choice. That is what i ended up with although you cannot see in videos. If it helps you I can email you a picture of it close up.
I did a lot of research before during and after this actuator job. The open close distance is key and the right size actuators. Mine have a 6" travel plus the length of the actuators.
In a perfect world i would have it open even further but could not get that worked out. The back of my hood sticks up just a little I have to work that out. Overall the coolness factor supersedes these items which i will fix. Plus i went for the wireless key fobs rather that flip switch. I can stand back 20' and raise this hood. Talk about a head turner...ha ha.
Anyway just thought I would share that any questions let me know.
Len
I went back and forth on where to mount the rear side of the actuators. I tried welding an L bracket to the side of the frame but ended cutting them off as it hit my tires on a sharp turn. Figured that out AFTER all that welding of course.
Anyway what I ended up doing is welding a bracket inside the A shaped framework that houses my shocks, just above the top of the shocks. It is already welded to the frame already and enough clearance to do any shock work so figured it was a good choice. That is what i ended up with although you cannot see in videos. If it helps you I can email you a picture of it close up.
I did a lot of research before during and after this actuator job. The open close distance is key and the right size actuators. Mine have a 6" travel plus the length of the actuators.
In a perfect world i would have it open even further but could not get that worked out. The back of my hood sticks up just a little I have to work that out. Overall the coolness factor supersedes these items which i will fix. Plus i went for the wireless key fobs rather that flip switch. I can stand back 20' and raise this hood. Talk about a head turner...ha ha.
Anyway just thought I would share that any questions let me know.
Len
I've seen several applications using only one actuators to open these tilt noses and I hope to be able to fabricate mine to do the same. Been looking at these actuators.
Linear Actuators