helps to align door frame
#1
#2
Do you have any shims in the hinges? It looks liken the picture your rear gap is pretty tight and that you have plenty of gap space at the front. Look alike you may be able to shim the bottom hinge a little to bring up that rear gap. But is your rear gap is that tight all the way around you may run into fitment issues.
#3
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#6
Your gaps look pretty good around the rest of the door. Moving the door straight up(if you can) will make it less noticeable, The only other option is to cut-align-weld the door opening to fit the door. Adjusting the rear of the door up will tighten the gap at the bottom too much.
These trucks were built for utility, not fit and finish. Very few have doors that fit properly.
These trucks were built for utility, not fit and finish. Very few have doors that fit properly.
#7
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#10
truckeemtnfords, I can illustrate what I proposed? thanks for the interest
#11
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#12
Lots of good advice here...but the problem is not with the door, it is with the cab itself. These trucks were built to be working vehicles and little extra attention was paid to "fit and finish". That roof is installed too high in the back so you will be limited in how you can fix it and still make it look right.
In your case...take a look at the flow of the body line on the vertical door jamb opening just below the roof seam, this is the point at which the drip rail ends. See how the curve of the body flows naturally along the curve of the door? Now look at the door opening at the roof/drip rail...see how the curve does not match? This is the gap that needs to be filled. 56panelford has a good recommendation and one that I have personally used on many occasions...however, in your case this technique would make the door look off balance. I would recommend that you get all the other gaps of the door aligned and then fill the opening under the drip rail as needed to make the upper gap uniform around the door. You may need to adjust the width of the drip rail to keep the rail size uniform from front to rear but that is far less work than lifting roof panel and installing it in the proper position relative to the door jamb. Good luck...
In your case...take a look at the flow of the body line on the vertical door jamb opening just below the roof seam, this is the point at which the drip rail ends. See how the curve of the body flows naturally along the curve of the door? Now look at the door opening at the roof/drip rail...see how the curve does not match? This is the gap that needs to be filled. 56panelford has a good recommendation and one that I have personally used on many occasions...however, in your case this technique would make the door look off balance. I would recommend that you get all the other gaps of the door aligned and then fill the opening under the drip rail as needed to make the upper gap uniform around the door. You may need to adjust the width of the drip rail to keep the rail size uniform from front to rear but that is far less work than lifting roof panel and installing it in the proper position relative to the door jamb. Good luck...
#13
When I did my panel I had uneven and wide gaps as well. I adjusted the doors as best as I could and welded 1/8" x 3/8' flat bar to the edge of the door then ground down to make the gaps even. You'd never notice it on top of your door. The rest of your gaps look pretty good.
#14
Lots of good advice here...but the problem is not with the door, it is with the cab itself. These trucks were built to be working vehicles and little extra attention was paid to "fit and finish". That roof is installed too high in the back so you will be limited in how you can fix it and still make it look right.
In your case...take a look at the flow of the body line on the vertical door jamb opening just below the roof seam, this is the point at which the drip rail ends. See how the curve of the body flows naturally along the curve of the door? Now look at the door opening at the roof/drip rail...see how the curve does not match? This is the gap that needs to be filled. 56panelford has a good recommendation and one that I have personally used on many occasions...however, in your case this technique would make the door look off balance. I would recommend that you get all the other gaps of the door aligned and then fill the opening under the drip rail as needed to make the upper gap uniform around the door. You may need to adjust the width of the drip rail to keep the rail size uniform from front to rear but that is far less work than lifting roof panel and installing it in the proper position relative to the door jamb. Good luck...
In your case...take a look at the flow of the body line on the vertical door jamb opening just below the roof seam, this is the point at which the drip rail ends. See how the curve of the body flows naturally along the curve of the door? Now look at the door opening at the roof/drip rail...see how the curve does not match? This is the gap that needs to be filled. 56panelford has a good recommendation and one that I have personally used on many occasions...however, in your case this technique would make the door look off balance. I would recommend that you get all the other gaps of the door aligned and then fill the opening under the drip rail as needed to make the upper gap uniform around the door. You may need to adjust the width of the drip rail to keep the rail size uniform from front to rear but that is far less work than lifting roof panel and installing it in the proper position relative to the door jamb. Good luck...
#15
In the old days when these vehicles were built they used a long 4x4 stuck through the opposite door opening to lever up the door bending the A pillar. I have the opposite problem on my '50 F2 due to restructuring at the bottom of the right A pillar. I'm going to have to move the lower hinge forward to make it fit. It requires too much movement for shims.