mother nature as garage
#17
01-27-2014, 03:56 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Interesting thread. I am a backyarder as well. I'm more concerned with getting some shelter over head than a concrete floor at the moment lol.
Though the floor would be nice with what I've got going on next. I've got to replace my flexplate in my 82 4x4.
Using the cribbing method how high would y'all feel safe lifting the truck up. It'd be nice to get the feet up or so. I have never had to jack it up to work under it, but will have to for this.
Any suggestions?
Though the floor would be nice with what I've got going on next. I've got to replace my flexplate in my 82 4x4.
Using the cribbing method how high would y'all feel safe lifting the truck up. It'd be nice to get the feet up or so. I have never had to jack it up to work under it, but will have to for this.
Any suggestions?
#19
02-05-2014, 07:29 AM
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#20
02-05-2014, 09:30 AM
#21
02-05-2014, 09:50 AM
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That makes more sense. I'm always nervous around vehicles that any sitting on there own wheels lol
#22
02-08-2014, 01:50 PM
i am thinking of building stacks (or blocks) of 2x4's together to make four large stands. i would used a combo of a bottle jack and the vehicle jack to put the truck on the blocks. like the article mentioned, i would chock the wheels and probably make a groove of some sort in the top of the blocks to prevent the truck from shifting/rolling. i've got a great paved surface to work on here in my live/work studio loft here in oakland (except when it rains)... and the other major draw back is the theft. i've already been broke into twice. i can only imagine my truck on blocks for a couple of days what signal that would send to the transients and dumpster divers that pass by... i've put ads on CL, mentioned it in my local chapter, and have already taken her to a stealership for maintenance. i do not want to do that again. it boils down to one simple question.. where the hell can i work on my truck in peace around here!?
#23
02-15-2014, 05:07 PM
so i've got two stacks of 2x4's that are roughly 13-3/8" tall. the bases are about 25" long and the tops are about 10" long. my question is, how far does the bottom of the axle need to be off the ground in order to remove tires? my truck is sitting at work at the moment. i'll get this answer roughly on monday but thought i'd ask here first. the tops of theses 'stands' have a groove in them to house the axle once its lowered on the blocks... as i mentioned before, i'll have to chock the wheels when she's up in the air.
#24
02-15-2014, 05:56 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so i've got two stacks of 2x4's that are roughly 13-3/8" tall. the bases are about 25" long and the tops are about 10" long. my question is, how far does the bottom of the axle need to be off the ground in order to remove tires? my truck is sitting at work at the moment. i'll get this answer roughly on monday but thought i'd ask here first. the tops of theses 'stands' have a groove in them to house the axle once its lowered on the blocks... as i mentioned before, i'll have to chock the wheels when she's up in the air.
If you are just removing tires you only need it high enough to get the tire off and back on. I can't give you an exact distance because there are too many variables such as how far the springs will compress etc.
As far as chocking the wheels if they are all in the air you don't have to worry about. Lol. Just be sure to to get the lug nut broke free while on the ground and you can loosen it up while in the air.
What all are you trying to do?
#25
02-15-2014, 06:06 PM
carolina canes-
thanks for the input. as of right now, i'm just trying to build some stands out of free lumber as opposed to buying traditional jack stands. i'm just looking to get the front and back of the truck up from time to time to do the usual stuff.
tire rotations, brakes, flushing power steering... maybe drop the fuel tank one of these days..
i know what you mean with variables. i'm sure my pavement/parking spot isn't even 'even'. i don't have my truck here to gauge a rough height but i'm thinking it'll be more than enough at 15" tall or so.
thanks for chiming in with the helpful advice/ideas!
cheers.
thanks for the input. as of right now, i'm just trying to build some stands out of free lumber as opposed to buying traditional jack stands. i'm just looking to get the front and back of the truck up from time to time to do the usual stuff.
tire rotations, brakes, flushing power steering... maybe drop the fuel tank one of these days..
i know what you mean with variables. i'm sure my pavement/parking spot isn't even 'even'. i don't have my truck here to gauge a rough height but i'm thinking it'll be more than enough at 15" tall or so.
thanks for chiming in with the helpful advice/ideas!
cheers.
#26
02-16-2014, 11:41 AM
Take the height of your tires, and divide by 2, thats a little more than enough distance as the axle tube will probably be 2 inches+- below the tire centerline.
Springs have nothing to do with it if you are jacking and blocking the axle directly.
My wild guess is you'll need one more board, maybe 2
Springs have nothing to do with it if you are jacking and blocking the axle directly.
My wild guess is you'll need one more board, maybe 2
#27
02-16-2014, 12:09 PM
This is how one pick-a-part in NY supports their vehicles.
Horseheads Pick-A-Part - You Pull Auto Parts Yard in NY
Horseheads Pick-A-Part - You Pull Auto Parts Yard in NY
#28
02-16-2014, 12:19 PM
Post Fiend
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago and Mt Carroll IL
Posts: 6,243
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I use cribbing.
I don't use jackstands under my car, it's a unibody so I set the jacking point on a crib and call it good. I have several sets that are screwed together for permanent use made from 2x4s or 2x6s in layers sandwiched in between OSB, the footprints vary based on how tall they are and what is going to sit on them. I wouldn't use an actual crib made of loose wood under anything where there might be a weight shift (ie removing a component like a trans), but for static work even loose cribbing will be fine. It works great on tractors, because it's impossible to find cost-effect jack stands that are tall enough, can hold that much weight, and that can be moved easily. A quality sheet of actual plywood at least an inch thick is a great base, it'll expand the footprint of the crib so it won't sink but won't fall apart like OSB from moisture.
With wood being so cheap you couldn't pay me to get under a vehicle held up by cinder blocks.
Cribbing For Heavy Vehicle Lifting |
I don't use jackstands under my car, it's a unibody so I set the jacking point on a crib and call it good. I have several sets that are screwed together for permanent use made from 2x4s or 2x6s in layers sandwiched in between OSB, the footprints vary based on how tall they are and what is going to sit on them. I wouldn't use an actual crib made of loose wood under anything where there might be a weight shift (ie removing a component like a trans), but for static work even loose cribbing will be fine. It works great on tractors, because it's impossible to find cost-effect jack stands that are tall enough, can hold that much weight, and that can be moved easily. A quality sheet of actual plywood at least an inch thick is a great base, it'll expand the footprint of the crib so it won't sink but won't fall apart like OSB from moisture.
With wood being so cheap you couldn't pay me to get under a vehicle held up by cinder blocks.
Cribbing For Heavy Vehicle Lifting |
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
scooterspal
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
26
09-18-2018 07:50 PM